Wandering steering

[Bart Jones]

Ok here is my delima, approximately Two years ago I bought and installed a 4 inch Rough Country yes I was on a budget, long story short from day one after lift install I have been darting and woandering all over the road. Is this a track bar issue, a toe issue,caster issue or all of the above. Point is I was excited to lift the Jeep but have not been comfortable or excited to drive since

 

[tworley]

Bottom of the barrel lifts usually include a dropped pitman arm, it is not needed on TJs. Your toe could also be incorrect. As well as caster since rough country doesnt include adjustable arms.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

X2 to tworley's comments. Basically a front-end alignment issue if it only wanders on a smooth highway, like improper toe-in and possibly insufficient caster angle. Though Rough Country is cluess enough to include dropped Pitman arms in their kits which should never be installed so long as the driver's side track bar is bolted to the factory mount. If there is a dropped Pitman arm installed, that will cause the steering to 'bump' left/right as you drive over bumps/dips on the highway or trail. Replace it with an OE type non-dropped Pitman arm.

This shows the difference between an aftermarket dropped Pitman arm you should not be running when using the OE non-dropped track bar mount and the OE Pitman arm you should be running.

 

[Bart Jones]

X2 to tworley's comments. Basically a front-end alignment issue if it only wanders on a smooth highway, like improper toe-in and possibly insufficient caster angle. Though Rough Country is cluess enough to include dropped Pitman arms in their kits which should never be installed so long as the driver's side track bar is bolted to the factory mount. If there is a dropped Pitman arm installed, that will cause the steering to 'bump' left/right as you drive over bumps/dips on the highway or trail. Replace it with an OE type non-dropped Pitman arm.

This shows the difference between an aftermarket dropped Pitman arm you should not be running when using the OE non-dropped track bar mount and the OE Pitman arm you should be running.

View attachment 49540

The kit did not include the drop arm so still stock, we pay for or bad dessions in this case the sub par lift however until I can afgoaf to correct that I will work on correcting current issues, my problem is there is not a good 4x4 shop withen an hour do I'm trying to figure this out as I go . Thanks for the advice will be watching for more

 

[Jerry Bransford]

With a little care reading a tape measure, you can measure & if necessary set your own toe-in as accurately as the most experienced alignment man and rack can produce. Really. All you need is a tape measure, a big set of pliers, and a wrench. Installing any suspension lift reduces your toe-in away from its correct setting so if that was never adjusted after installing the lift, it needs it desperately.

Here's how.... http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

You're just basically going to rotate the tie-rod until the fronts of the tires are 1/16" to 1/8" closer together in front than in the rear. Make sure that your tires are on the ground or the front axle is supporting the weight of the TJ (as it would be if the axle was resting on jack stands) while doing this.

 

[Imapepper]

Unless you're in the rust belt, an 18 inch pipe wrench is helpful...

 

[Bart Jones]

With a little care reading a tape measure, you can measure & if necessary set your own toe-in as accurately as the most experienced alignment man and rack can produce. Really. All you need is a tape measure, a big set of pliers, and a wrench. Installing any suspension lift reduces your toe-in away from its correct setting so if that was never adjusted after installing the lift, it needs it desperately.

Here's how.... http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

You're just basically going to rotate the tie-rod until the fronts of the tires are 1/16" to 1/8" closer together in front than in the rear. Make sure that your tires are on the ground or the front axle is supporting the weight of the TJ (as it would be if the axle was resting on jack stands) while doing this.

Thank you sir, WhwW you talk caster could you explain it somewhat. I feel mine may be off. Of course with the bottom end lift there were new lower control arms ( no adjustable of course just not sure if things were but back in place. Almost positive the toe was not checked and tire ware is very uneven, front wore more on the inside than outside and also have worn much more than the back. I did not have any vibration problems until it was put on a lift to change a front hub bearing and ball joints on passenger side . Was put on a two post life so suspension did flex toax once work done drove now have a vibration starting at about 40 mph and not stopping until back under 40 mph

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That uneven tire wear is a sure sign your toe-in was not properly adjusted after the suspension lift was installed. It is absolutely always imperative that the toe-in be set after installing any suspension lift as the suspension lift changes (increases) the toe-in angle so it is no longer correct.

The caster angle is what gives you stable steering on the highway and also causes the steering wheel to return back to center after completing a turn. With fixed length control arms, they normally make them to the correct length to give you sufficient caster angle. The caster angle does not need to have a precise angle, you just need 'enough' caster angle to provide stable steering and good return to center after completing a turn. The caster angle itself is the axis the axle's knuckles rotate around when you turn left or right.

 

[Bart Jones]

That uneven tire wear is a sure sign your toe-in was not properly adjusted after the suspension lift was installed. It is absolutely always imperative that the toe-in be set after installing any suspension lift as the suspension lift changes (increases) the toe-in angle so it is no longer correct.

The caster angle is what gives you stable steering on the highway and also causes the steering wheel to return back to center after completing a turn. With fixed length control arms, they normally make them to the correct length to give you sufficient caster angle. The caster angle does not need to have a precise angle, you just need 'enough' caster angle to provide stable steering and good return to center after completing a turn. The caster angle itself is the axis the axle's knuckles rotate around when you turn left or right.

View attachment 49641

That uneven tire wear is a sure sign your toe-in was not properly adjusted after the suspension lift was installed. It is absolutely always imperative that the toe-in be set after installing any suspension lift as the suspension lift changes (increases) the toe-in angle so it is no longer correct.

The caster angle is what gives you stable steering on the highway and also causes the steering wheel to return back to center after completing a turn. With fixed length control arms, they normally make them to the correct length to give you sufficient caster angle. The caster angle does not need to have a precise angle, you just need 'enough' caster angle to provide stable steering and good return to center after completing a turn. The caster angle itself is the axis the axle's knuckles rotate around when you turn left or right.

View attachment 49641

Ok that makes since one last question in looking at the drawing I noticed one thing that sticks out in my mind after installing the lift I did notice that the bump stops were not centered in the spring. If I'm reading right I would think it's almost like my caster is certainly off whitch in turn would have my front drive line angle off enough to cause vibration?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Bump stops are seldom well centered inside the springs after a suspension lift is installed. The caster and pinion angles go hand-in-hand so if there is excessive caster angle, not likely in this case, it would cause excessive pinion angle which would cause the front driveshaft's u-joints to vibrate.

My best advice is to have the caster angle checked. 5.5 to 6 degrees of caster angle is fine with larger than factory size tires.

 

[Bart Jones]

Bump stops are seldom well centered inside the springs after a suspension lift is installed. The caster and pinion angles go hand-in-hand so if there is excessive caster angle, not likely in this case, it would cause excessive pinion angle which would cause the front driveshaft's u-joints to vibrate.

My best advice is to have the caster angle checked. 5.5 to 6 degrees of caster angle is fine with larger than factory size tires.

Thanks again ! I will be updating this soon I hope.