What are good and cheap engine swaps for a Jeep Wrangler TJ?

Did you do a stroker motor or just a refresh with new bearing, rings, cams, and seals?
I like the 4.0l but I feel we have many junk yard options that can improve or customize the TJ the way you like it. I wanted to see what other options owners would choose for a swap. Or have actually swapped. Rebuild the 4.0l is always a sound choice.
I just rebuilt it stock......New pistons, rings, bearings, cam, head, 1 new rod, etc.
I thought about doing a stroker but the additional cost & shorter warranty didn't seem worth it.
 
Crazy jeep swaps here you go... built and deleted 6.0l powerstroke swap shredding the dunes



Very heavy engine and not at all easy to pull off...


The guys doing these are legitimate fabricators and know what they are doing. They need the power to push the tires, when a simple regear isn't enough. This isn't everybodys cup of tea and really only applies to serious offroading.

Not a jeep just an example



Here is a 4bt swap

 
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Crazy jeep swaps here you go... built and deleted 6.0l powerstroke swap shredding the dunes



Very heavy engine and not at all easy to pull off...


The guys doing these are legitimate fabricators and know what they are doing. They need the power to push the tires, when a simple regear isn't enough. This isn't everybodys cup of tea and really only applies to serious offroading.

Not a jeep just an example



Here is a 4bt swap


7CC3B31A-B7DD-424E-BCA9-52F27DDEA046.jpeg

Or a Viper V10.
 
That is wild, with big engine swaps like this you gotta watch out for the drivers side exhaust manifold/header being in the way of the steering shafts/ rag joints.
 
Aren't 4BTs 300 pounds heavier than a 4.0? I would consider a diesel, but trying to tote that much added weight on a steep, difficult climb doesn't sound too appealing.
 
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Aren't 4BTs 300 pounds heavier than a 4.0? I would consider a diesel, but trying to tote that much added weight on a steep, difficult climb doesn't sound too appealing.

Yeah 4bt are heavy pigs, all diesels are, but common go to for guys who really wheel what they drive, its just a 12 valve with 2 less cylinders basically.

Only reason I am on this site right now, is because of the 4.0l, I couldve got into a gladiator but why... These tj are gonna gain value while the new ones drop... I could be wrong with that statement but I truly believe it after seeing the first gen rare cj, broncos and blazers even scouts skyrocket in value.
 
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The 4.0l is plenty of engine for almost everyone on this forum, pirate4x4 on the other hand..... Nobody should doubt that beast under the hood. It is going to be sought after in 10-20 years and everyone will miss the reliability and how easy they are to wrench on as a straight six engine. They are an awesome engine.
 
Unsure why a GM V6 would be considered. All that time and money to get the same power as a 4.0. While costing (again time and money) what a GM V8 would.
Cummins stated their 2.8 is smog legal up to 06. That was the point of their development. Designed for the TJ.
But to be honest if I was considering a new engine type under the hood I would get a YJ to start with. Basically eliminating all computer headaches and emissions concerns.
Money no object? The VW TDI is probably the best diesel choice. LS for a gas job.
The TDI seems to put out better than the Cummins with less weight and better mpg while still allowing parts availability at the local NAPA. Same with the LS. And getting parts should be considered when doing this.
Getting a CJ and either a Ford or Chevy small block would be high on the list. The classics belong together. It's too weird when I see an 80 year old man with his 20 year old wife!
 
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Unsure why a GM V6 would be considered. All that time and money to get the same power as a 4.0. While costing (again time and money) what a GM V8 would.
Cummins stated their 2.8 is smog legal up to 06. That was the point of their development. Designed for the TJ.
But to be honest if I was considering a new engine type under the hood I would get a YJ to start with. Basically eliminating all computer headaches and emissions concerns.
Money no object? The VW TDI is probably the best diesel choice. LS for a gas job.
The TDI seems to put out better than the Cummins with less weight and better mpg while still allowing parts availability at the local NAPA. Same with the LS. And getting parts should be considered when doing this.
Getting a CJ and either a Ford or Chevy small block would be high on the list. The classics belong together. It's too weird when I see an 80 year old man with his 20 year old wife!

TDI is a great choice, unless you want to make 600hp and 1200lbs tq fairly cheap compared to other engines, then 4bt it is...

4bt has no emissions b.s so it get outstanding fuel economy

also 4bt is mechanical as it gets... emp proof.
 
Aren't 4BTs 300 pounds heavier than a 4.0? I would consider a diesel, but trying to tote that much added weight on a steep, difficult climb doesn't sound too appealing.
Yeah, and that's also a fairly significant sized weight balance difference in general, as far as vehicle dynamics go. Add a bumper and a winch, leave the back end alone, and you really have a heavy front end. The TJ is typically close to 50/50 front/rear.
 
After re-gearing mine from 3.07 to 4.10, it's like I did a motor swap. It's a totally different driving experience, especially on the highway. That cost me $1450, and had it back on the road within two days.

Before I would have trouble maintaining 65mph if there was the slightest incline, especially with a head wind, and even had to shift into second sometimes not to lose speed. Today I went to pass someone and before I knew it, was doing 80 with ease.
 
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I didn't see this referenced earlier in this thread but I think it's a great view of the TDI swap and the challenges. Nate has some great wheeling videos that show off the potential if you have the time and the patience to get it right. There are a couple videos where he has gotten into trouble when his TJ was in vertical positions (Walker valley ORV) and they weren't sure if the TDI was going to starve. Overall, his video library is pretty great, IMO.

I love the idea of a diesel swap but I have never owned a diesel. I think it would be an interesting challenge to do but the 2bt crate has much more direct support when it comes to troubleshooting, based on the research I have done.

I haven't seen anything referencing a K20/K24 swap. I will have to look this up.

 
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I didn't see this referenced earlier in this thread but I think it's a great view of the TDI swap and the challenges. Nate has some great wheeling videos that show off the potential if you have the time and the patience to get it right. There are a couple videos where he has gotten into trouble when his TJ was in vertical positions (Walker valley ORV) and they weren't sure if the TDI was going to starve. Overall, his video library is pretty great, IMO.

I love the idea of a diesel swap but I have never owned a diesel. I think it would be an interesting challenge to do but the 2bt crate has much more direct support when it comes to troubleshooting, based on the research I have done.

I haven't seen anything referencing a K20/K24 swap. I will have to look this up.

Good ol' bleepin haha I left his jeep out because at first the original poster made this title confusing "best cheap engine swap" then had every single engine listed at over 500hp so I was trying to tell him the best cheap swap for big power but it looks like he lowered all the hp goals....



Also the 50/50 dont matter unless you a racing spec b miata's or racing cars... and 200lbs in the front with a 4bt isn't a big add for weight I believe the jeep 4.0 is 550lbs and the 4bt is 700-750lbs, that is a steel bumper and a winch and a few other parts.... Think about it... If an issue with weight balance occurs they put the radiator battery etc in the back.

The TDI around here are all getting crushed too they lied to the epa, so parts might get rare for them in the future.. I can show you thousands of vw tdi just sitting in huge lots waiting to be figured out what to do with.
 
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The TDI around here are all getting crushed too they lied to the epa, so parts might get rare for them in the future.. I can show you thousands of vw tdi just sitting in huge lots waiting to be figured out what to do with.

Cheap swap to me is having access to free parts that you are familiar with. I think this thread proves that dollar for dollar purchasing from market, a 4.0l (or 2.5l) crate or rebuild is the best way, if your intention is to get the TJ back on the road at the lowest cost.

If your intention is power, there are options.

If your intention is weight and gas mileage, the TDI and 2bt are the best options. There is a video (I will try to dig it up) where Nate did the Rubicon trail on ~6gallons of diesel. (Puts the Jerry can argument into perspective 😋)

Like I said, personally, I like this idea. Intent, time, money and patience.
 
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Also the 50/50 dont matter unless you a racing spec b miata's or racing cars... and 200lbs in the front with a 4bt isn't a big add for weight I believe the jeep 4.0 is 550lbs and the 4bt is 700-750lbs, that is a steel bumper and a winch and a few other parts.... Think about it... If an issue with weight balance occurs they put the radiator battery etc in the back.
Mine came in a bit over 515 with the accessories.

Combine that 4BT weight combined with a front bumper & winch, that could be a good 400+ lbs over stock. Seems like a lot to me. The VW TDI seems like a better option from just the weight perspective if the power is even close to the same.
 
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Also the 50/50 dont matter unless you a racing spec b miata's or racing cars...

It doesn't matter...until that 400-500 HP gets away from you and being off balance puts you into a tight spin and roll before you know what happened. The TJ has a very short wheel base. Good driver or not, many have lost control of these things at speed and getting off-balance due to something that surprises them on the road. And this is with a 50/50 weight balance. My TJ doesn't even have ABS. An LJ would be more suitable for this type of power, but with more power becomes more responsibility. If I was adding that much weight in the front, I'd be sure to balance it out the best I could. Just sayin'
 
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Obviously a longer wheelbase is a more stable platform for big power that just physics, look at funny cars and salt drag machines full built crawlers etc... This is an old argument that has been discussed thousands of times for decades, go on pirate 4x4 and check out hundreds of thousands of jeep swaps done, you notice the more power and large tires the longer and lower center of gravity they ended up because they usually have stretched wheelbase etc.... Jeeps are not designed to be super fast cornering champions... Why are we even mentioning this right now?

OP was talking about 1000hp 2jz swaps not how to build a perfect 50/50 balanced jeep that can go on a race track and handle safe on concrete