What parts do I need for SYE conversion?

armaunr

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I just bought a 2002 Wrangler with a 2.5 inch lift, however the previous owner never did a SYE so there is a ton of vibrations all the time. I read the SYE thread and got a general idea, however I'm pretty new to this and I would like to know what exactly I need. I know that I should get the SYE kit from Advanced Adapters and an Adam's driveshaft to start with, however I dont know what else I need to get to make sure everything runs smoothly. I also dont know which SYE kit from AA to go with. There are so many options, 1310 CV Yoke, 1310 Non CV yoke, 1350 CV yoke 1350 non CV yoke, 1300 series flange yoke and 1410 series flange yoke. Which one do I need/what is the difference between all these? Also, If i jump up to a higher lift at some point in the future, will I need to do this again since the angle will change? For example 2.5 inch to 4 inch? Thank you so much.
 
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Just playing devil's advocate here: is there anything else that may be causing these vibrations? Some people will remove one of the driveshafts to help eliminate variables.

As for the SYE install, it looks like you've already done a lot of research. I also used Advance Adapters and found their phone tech support to be terrific. Having honest discussions with them up front will help identify good options to consider.
 
Just playing devil's advocate here: is there anything else that may be causing these vibrations? Some people will remove one of the driveshafts to help eliminate variables.

As for the SYE install, it looks like you've already done a lot of research. I also used Advance Adapters and found their phone tech support to be terrific. Having honest discussions with them up front will help identify good options to consider.
I had two mechanic's take a look at it as well as a good family friend who has worked on Jeeps in the past and the consensous is that the vibrations are being caused by not having done a SYE install after lifting the Jeep.

Also thank you for the tip, I will call them up first thing tomorrow and see what they recommend. Thank you!
 
I'd consider doing a Super Short SYE instead of the traditional kit if you're thinking you may lift the suspension higher in the future. That'll make things easier for you. Mention this option when you order your double cardan driveshaft. No, you won't need to go thru this process again after another lift. You'll only need to change your pinion angle if you lift higher. So the transfer case and drive shaft will be good to go, you'll change the pinion angle with adjustable control arms.
 
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You’ll need:

Sye (I’d get JB SS SYE)
DC (this will be the last thing you order after installing all the other parts and measuring)
Snap ring pliers (no cheapies)
Various sockets
Vice
RTV (to seal the TCase, I use The Right Stuff 1 Minute Gasket Maker)
ATF +4
Common tools
Patience
Speedo healer (if you go with a SS SYE)

EDIT:
Rear Adjustable Control Arms (to adjust your pinion angle)
 
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Are you sure you can not do some pinion angle adjustments to fix the issue?

If set on SYE, I'd recommend the JB standard SYE.

Other things you'll need:
Double cardan shaft after measuring the final lengths post install (Adams or Tom Wood, I've always used Adams)
Lock ring pliers (not snap ring pliers)
ATF (type does not really matter)
 
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I just bought a 2002 Wrangler with a 2.5 inch lift, however the previous owner never did a SYE so there is a ton of vibrations all the time. I read the SYE thread and got a general idea, however I'm pretty new to this and I would like to know what exactly I need. I know that I should get the SYE kit from Advanced Adapters and an Adam's driveshaft to start with, however I dont know what else I need to get to make sure everything runs smoothly. I also dont know which SYE kit from AA to go with. There are so many options, 1310 CV Yoke, 1310 Non CV yoke, 1350 CV yoke 1350 non CV yoke, 1300 series flange yoke and 1410 series flange yoke. Which one do I need/what is the difference between all these? Also, If i jump up to a higher lift at some point in the future, will I need to do this again since the angle will change? For example 2.5 inch to 4 inch? Thank you so much.
Have you considered altering the pinion angle in other ways? A motor mount lift / body lift is an economical combo that might solve your issues. It seems a little strange that you would jump right into a SYE (unless that's included in your future build plans).

A transfer case drop is an even cheaper way to do it if your not concerned with the decreased belly clearance.
 
Apparently it's a good idea to replace the seal at the back of the transmission, which nobody mentions anywhere (until you start a thread about how you're leaking ATF after doing an SYE).
 
Apparently it's a good idea to replace the seal at the back of the transmission, which nobody mentions anywhere (until you start a thread about how you're leaking ATF after doing an SYE).
Could the leaking seal at the bottom of the transmission be due to removing the transfer case during the SYE install?
It's possible to install the SYE without removing the transfer case (I did this and haven't observed any leaks).
 
You’ll need:

Sye (I’d get JB SS SYE)
DC (this will be the last thing you order after installing all the other parts and measuring)
Snap ring pliers (no cheapies)
Various sockets
Vice
RTV (to seal the TCase, I use The Right Stuff 1 Minute Gasket Maker)
ATF +4
Common tools
Patience
Speedo healer (if you go with a SS SYE)
I've been looking into doing a SYE as well...what about adjustable rear control arms? Dont you need those to rotate the rear pinion up?
 
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I've been looking into doing a SYE as well...what about adjustable rear control arms? Dont you need those to rotate the rear pinion up?
Yep, those too! Forgot to add that. Good call!
 
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Could the leaking seal at the bottom of the transmission be due to removing the transfer case during the SYE install?
It's possible to install the SYE without removing the transfer case (I did this and haven't observed any leaks).
It is possible, but seems like the recommendation here is to change it while you've got the t-case out, assuming you do it that way. Speaking of which, lock ring pliers (not to be confused with snap ring pliers) is also a very handy addition. It can be done w/o the tool, but it's a lot harder. Speaking from my own personal experience, the innermost c clip was not possible to remove through any other means. I had to make my own lock ring pliers out of a pair of channel locks + bench grinder.
 
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You’ll need:

Sye (I’d get JB SS SYE)
DC (this will be the last thing you order after installing all the other parts and measuring)
Snap ring pliers (no cheapies)
Various sockets
Vice
RTV (to seal the TCase, I use The Right Stuff 1 Minute Gasket Maker)
ATF +4
Common tools
Patience
Speedo healer (if you go with a SS SYE)

EDIT:
Rear Adjustable Control Arms (to adjust your pinion angle)
Thank you!

I was reading the post way back from 2015 about doing an SYE install and it seemed like the general consensous was that the advanced adapters SYE kit was the one to go with. Whats the difference between that and the JB SS SYE?
 
Have you considered altering the pinion angle in other ways? A motor mount lift / body lift is an economical combo that might solve your issues. It seems a little strange that you would jump right into a SYE (unless that's included in your future build plans).

A transfer case drop is an even cheaper way to do it if your not concerned with the decreased belly clearance.
It definitely is in my future build plans, as I plan to go up to a 4 inch lift. If i do an SYE now, and go to a 4 inch lift in the future, how will I have to modify or adjust the parts I install now? Will it be easy/inexpensive or the opposite?
 
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I'd consider doing a Super Short SYE instead of the traditional kit if you're thinking you may lift the suspension higher in the future. That'll make things easier for you. Mention this option when you order your double cardan driveshaft. No, you won't need to go thru this process again after another lift. You'll only need to change your pinion angle if you lift higher. So the transfer case and drive shaft will be good to go, you'll change the pinion angle with adjustable control arms.
Thank you for the tip! What is the difference between a suprt short SYE and a traditional?
 
I know of a few who had defective AA SYEs. JB sells two, the SS (super short) SYE and the SYE. The SYE is almost the same as AA and all the other brands except nicer seals, (really only one bearing in an SYE kit and it's installed in the tail housing), and a high clearance yoke (allows for roughly 3/4" longer driveshaft than all the other standard SYEs on the market. It is a very fair purchase at $200 when almost every other SYE is more than that and not as good of quality.

The SS SYE from JB is about 3" shorter than the standard as it gets rid of the speedo gear portion of the back of the transfer case. Great for driveline lengths, but you have to buy a speedo calibrator to fix the speedo. Not such a big deal. However, I have seen some issues with JB's speed sensor and he is about the only place you can get them because the OEM TJ rubi sensor from Mopar (same part application JB supplies) has been gone for a long time. Seems like you're playing the lotto with JB's sensors, so for me personally, I would choose the standard SYE unless you absolutely need the super short. IF only going to a 4" lift later, I'd opt for the standard kit simply to retain the speedo gear setup and not risk issues with sensors, and for the ability to swap gears to correct the setup.

You can also still electronically calibrate the speedo even on a speedo gear setup so you aren't losing anything by keeping the standard setup with the gear, unless you really need the extra driveline length that the super short SYE provides.
 
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As for the rear transmission seal that others have mentioned, I have honestly pulled the transfer case many times and never managed to have a seal issue. The studs keep the transfer case aligned perfectly so you can't really physically damage the seal upon install. The only thing I could think of is maybe disturbing it causes it to leak, but that was never the case for myself.

It certainly can't hurt to change it though if you install the new one correctly.
 
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I know of a few who had defective AA SYEs. JB sells two, the SS (super short) SYE and the SYE. The SYE is almost the same as AA and all the other brands except nicer seals, (really only one bearing in an SYE kit and it's installed in the tail housing), and a high clearance yoke (allows for roughly 3/4" longer driveshaft than all the other standard SYEs on the market. It is a very fair purchase at $200 when almost every other SYE is more than that and not as good of quality.

The SS SYE from JB is about 3" shorter than the standard as it gets rid of the speedo gear portion of the back of the transfer case. Great for driveline lengths, but you have to buy a speedo calibrator to fix the speedo. Not such a big deal. However, I have seen some issues with JB's speed sensor and he is about the only place you can get them because the OEM TJ rubi sensor from Mopar (same part application JB supplies) has been gone for a long time. Seems like you're playing the lotto with JB's sensors, so for me personally, I would choose the standard SYE unless you absolutely need the super short. IF only going to a 4" lift later, I'd opt for the standard kit simply to retain the speedo gear setup and not risk issues with sensors, and for the ability to swap gears to correct the setup.

You can also still electronically calibrate the speedo even on a speedo gear setup so you aren't losing anything by keeping the standard setup with the gear, unless you really need the extra driveline length that the super short SYE provides.
Thank you very much!
 
Thank you!

I was reading the post way back from 2015 about doing an SYE install and it seemed like the general consensous was that the advanced adapters SYE kit was the one to go with. Whats the difference between that and the JB SS SYE?
A standard SYE is good, it’s just longer, so your driveshaft is shorter. That means the driveshaft angle is steeper. If your lift is 1-3” and you’re not planning a tummy tuck, you’ll be fine with standard.

A SS SYE is good too, it’s just shorter, so your driveshaft can be longer. That means the driveshaft angle is less steep. If your lift is 4”+ and/or you are planning a tummy tuck, you’ll want a SS SYE.