What springs should I pair with Rancho 55239 and 55241 shocks?

[97' 4 Popper]

I was hoping I could get some help here on how to plan my future "build". I didn't realize these shocks run a little longer than advertised, I bought them a year ago and can't return now, but still think they are a good choice for me. 0-2 lift ranchos would have been too short.

What length lift springs should I use, if I'm running 31s? Will it hurt to go with heavy duties if I'm not really using the jeep? 3 inch lift seems to be the recommendation for the front, should I go with that much lift front and rear? I'm looking more for ride quality and to eliminate the factory rake so if I can run longer springs or a spacer up front that would be desirable v.s. 3 inches rear and front and still having the rake.

Also I'm going to want a track bar relocation bracket and also extended sway bar links. If I understand correctly going with a 2 inch lift in the rear and same springs with a spacer up front I will only need extended sway bar links in the front. Any other considerations for a 3 inch lift on a LJ? I'm hoping I don't have to worry about vibes and I'm definitely not concerned with gearing as I'm comfortable where I'm at with 31s and 3.73s on a 6 speed.

I know I won't have an exact answer to all this until I'm cycling the suspension and taking measurements. I'm not looking for exact answers just a rough idea.

 

[bobthetj03]

My suggestion would be to run 2" lift springs, then get an assortment of spring spacers ranging from 1/2", 3/4", and 1" to level the rake. typically, 3/4" spacers get you a good stance and will give you a better 50/50 shock bias. You will need 1-3/4" minimal bump stop extensions in the front to keep the 55239's from bottoming out. You'll also need at least 1" bump stop extension in the rear to keep the TB relocation bracket from hitting the tub at full bump. But like you said, cycling the suspension is key. Since you already have the shocks it should be a good start.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

My suggestion would be to run 2" lift springs, then get an assortment of spring spacers ranging from 1/2", 3/4", and 1" to level the rake. typically, 3/4" spacers get you a good stance and will give you a better 50/50 shock bias. You will need 1-3/4" minimal bump stop extensions in the front to keep the 55239's from bottoming out. You'll also need at least 1" bump stop extension in the rear to keep the TB relocation bracket from hitting the tub at full bump. But like you said, cycling the suspension is key. Since you already have the shocks it should be a good start.

I was leaning towards 2 inch ome heavy duty springs, quite a few people on the forums have posted they're running 2 inch lift with the 55241 in the rear. I just want to replace the bushings and aging shocks and get a little lift. I do have some teraflex spring spacers I bought, that can be flipped apparently to provide 3/4 inch or 1.25 inch. I should probably try and cycle it first because it's not my dd anymore. I can install the shocks and go from there with ordering springs, spacers if needed, and bumpstop extensions.

 

[Rubicon88]

Springs ???
Any.
Yes seriously. A lot of these mfg have springs made in the same house anyways. Different paint, packaging but same none the less.
The shock is where your attention should be.
That makes or breaks(not literal) the quality of your ride feel.


IMO...
Get a 3 inch spring...(only a few mfg do 3")
Get sway bar disconnects to fit the 3" increase
A new track bar...(adjustable)

4 new good shocks.
Rancho 5000x or skyjacker blackmax are very similar.

Any momotube shock will be firm. Very. Some like that. You may not. (Fox, bilstein, Rancho 7000)


Go wheeling.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Springs ???
Any.
Yes seriously. A lot of these mfg have springs made in the same house anyways. Different paint, packaging but same none the less.
The shock is where your attention should be.
That makes or breaks(not literal) the quality of your ride feel.


IMO...
Get a 3 inch spring...(only a few mfg do 3")
Get sway bar disconnects to fit the 3" increase
A new track bar...(adjustable)

4 new good shocks.
Rancho 5000x or skyjacker blackmax are very similar.

Any momotube shock will be firm. Very. Some like that. You may not. (Fox, bilstein, Rancho 7000)


Go wheeling.

I don't disagree with you for anyone else's jeep, but my LJ it's a restoration project, so I want to avoid if possible diving off the deep end on the suspension. If not that's okay too, but we're talking quite a bit of hardware for a garage queen. I may change my mind when I finally get to it. If the travel is off bad or needs too much bumpstop going with 2 inches in the rear that would stop me from going with them. For the front I've already basically gathered I need a minimum of 2.5 to run the ranchos. On the other end rancho's 0-2 inch lift shocks don't leave you a whole lot of lift, about 1 inch extra if I'm not mistaken and at that point you may as well just be using some spacers. I actually would rather get a new track bar vs a relocation bracket. I plan on getting a stock TJ to build for offroading. I actually have a TJ now but I'm 85% sure I'm selling it.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I think 2" is going to get you REALLY close to 50/50 bias with those shocks.

I have them on my TJ, with coils that measure 13.5" in the front at ride height - which should be 1.5" of lift. That sits at a shock length of 18.5, with 43/57%, 4/5.3" up/down. 2.1" of lift would put it exactly 50/50 with 4.7" each way.

I haven't really measured my spring height in the rear but the shock length at ride height is 17.5", which is 49% uptravel, closer than i usually even hope for.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I think 2" is going to get you REALLY close to 50/50 bias with those shocks.

I have them on my TJ, with coils that measure 13.5" in the front at ride height - which should be 1.5" of lift. That sits at a shock length of 18.5, with 43/57%, 4/5.3" up/down. 2.1" of lift would put it exactly 50/50 with 4.7" each way.

I haven't really measured my spring height in the rear but the shock length at ride height is 17.5", which is 49% uptravel, closer than i usually even hope for.

Thank you for this information. Most posts I find say 2.5 inches is not enough up front.

What length are you using for bumpstop extensions?

 

[06lj]

I run those front shocks on a 2.5" LJ lift and they are perfect. I have the 9000xl's in the rear. They are similar in length to the 5000x's and also work well.
If you want a lift I would recommend the Old Man Emu ZJ/LJ (934/949) lift. It will give you 2.5" with no rake. This is what I run currently. On the other hand if you just want to fit 31's without much investment I would just keep the factory suspension with a spacer up front to remove the rake and install a small body lift. A 1" or even 1/2" body lift would clear 31's.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Thank you for this information. Most posts I find say 2.5 inches is not enough up front.

What length are you using for bumpstop extensions?

not enough bump stop. I put 3/4" on it last week to keep the tie rod out of the track bar. I ordered these on Tuesday when I figured out the shocks I had were going to be too short and just installed them yesterday when they were delivered.

13.5" spring length

4" shaft exposed

5" between the stops

Based on these I need another inch, which is right inline with @bobthetj03 's figure of 1-3/4".

 

[Rubicon88]

I don't disagree with you for anyone else's jeep, but my LJ it's a restoration project, so I want to avoid if possible diving off the deep end on the suspension. If not that's okay too, but we're talking quite a bit of hardware for a garage queen. I may change my mind when I finally get to it. If the travel is off bad or needs too much bumpstop going with 2 inches in the rear that would stop me from going with them. For the front I've already basically gathered I need a minimum of 2.5 to run the ranchos. On the other end rancho's 0-2 inch lift shocks don't leave you a whole lot of lift, about 1 inch extra if I'm not mistaken and at that point you may as well just be using some spacers. I actually would rather get a new track bar vs a relocation bracket. I plan on getting a stock TJ to build for offroading. I actually have a TJ now but I'm 85% sure I'm selling it.

Then don't do anything.

Seems like a lot of horseshit just to make shocks work you can't return.?.

What i suggested is far from driving off the deep end.

Hell get Rough country 2.5 springs, install your shocks, two sway bar links that detach for the 2.5 lift and be done.

Many upon many of Jeep built just like I listed with nothing done to track bar.

Literally about $278.00 and you've accomplished exactly what you're hoping for...unless I'm not following you.

 

[bobthetj03]

To avoid any discrepancies in measuring the shock at ride height up front, I measure from the bottom bar pin where it mounts to the shock mount pad, to the bottom edge of the dome on the shock piston. This is at full bump with 1.75" of bump stop extension.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I run those front shocks on a 2.5" LJ lift and they are perfect. I have the 9000xl's in the rear. They are similar in length to the 5000x's and also work well.
If you want a lift I would recommend the Old Man Emu ZJ/LJ (934/949) lift. It will give you 2.5" with no rake. This is what I run currently. On the other hand if you just want to fit 31's without much investment I would just keep the factory suspension with a spacer up front to remove the rake and install a small body lift. A 1" or even 1/2" body lift would clear 31's.

I'm having a hard time finding that lift, part numbers 2934, 2949 show up as 1 inch lift front, and 2 inch lift rear respectively.

not enough bump stop. I put 3/4" on it last week to keep the tie rod out of the track bar. I ordered these on Tuesday when I figured out the shocks I had were going to be too short and just installed them yesterday when they were delivered.

13.5" spring length


4" shaft exposed



5" between the stops



Based on these I need another inch, which is right inline with @bobthetj03 's figure of 1-3/4".

Gotcha

Then don't do anything.

Seems like a lot of horseshit just to make shocks work you can't return.?.

What i suggested is far from driving off the deep end.

Hell get Rough country 2.5 springs, install your shocks, two sway bar links that detach for the 2.5 lift and be done.

Many upon many of Jeep built just like I listed with nothing done to track bar.

Literally about $278.00 and you've accomplished exactly what you're hoping for...unless I'm not following you.

Nah we are on the same page lol. I'm just trying to keep upgrades down to what's really necessary but also not trying to run rough country or anything like that. In the end of the day I'm not afraid to dish out money or work into the jeep.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

To avoid any discrepancies in measuring the shock at ride height up front, I measure from the bottom bar pin where it mounts to the shock mount pad, to the bottom edge of the dome on the shock piston. This is at full bump with 1.75" of bump stop extension.
View attachment 221933

that's a good point to bring up. If one is not attentive looking at the shock measurement diagram, they could easily, and wrongfully assume that the measurement goes to the centerline of the upper mount - between the bushing halves. This bit me when I bought RS55255's for the front with my 3" lift based on just measuring between the shock mounts. I ended up with 5/8" less uptravel than I expected on a shock that I already knew would be on the very edge of short enough. Fortunately it was easily corrected with a 3/4" coil spacer to get me back to where I wanted to be.

Those RS55255's are now on my LJ with 4" Rockjock springs, exactly 16" spring length, 5" of shaft exposed and all of the parts that come in the Rockjock bump stop kit.

 

[Rubicon88]

Nah we are on the same page lol. I'm just trying to keep upgrades down to what's really necessary but also not trying to run rough country or anything like that. In the end of the day I'm not afraid to dish out money or work into the jeep.

RC doesn't get a bad rap for all their stuff. Especially the springs.

Their shocks suck and you've eliminated that. Other things suck but they don't apply to you.

Their coil springs do exactly the same thing every other coil spring does. Provide more height than a stock spring and with the right shock which you already have you'll experience a better than factory ride.

I echo again...coil springs are only made by so many mfg. I don't mean lift companies. I mean spring companies. These lift companies contract this stuff out.

Four new 2.5 springs and new links...simple and good to go and better than what you have now.

 

[06lj]

I'm having a hard time finding that lift, part numbers 2934, 2949 show up as 1 inch lift front, and 2 inch lift rear respectively.

The 934's are listed as a 1" lift spring for a ZJ with the V8. They work well for the LJ and give 2.5" of lift. The rear springs are the heavy load springs. On a LJ without heavy armor or bumpers they give roughly 2.5". I have just a hair under 2.5" with the rear seat and hardtop and 90lbs tire carrier installed. Like you I dislike the factory rake and this combo set the LJ nice and level.
My front bumpstops are set at 1.5" and I have 4.25 of uptravel available on the shocks. My rears are a little different because I have a body lift that allows shorter bumpstops.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

RC doesn't get a bad rap for all their stuff. Especially the springs.

Their shocks suck and you've eliminated that. Other things suck but they don't apply to you.

Their coil springs do exactly the same thing every other coil spring does. Provide more height than a stock spring and with the right shock which you already have you'll experience a better than factory ride.

I echo again...coil springs are only made by so many mfg. I don't mean lift companies. I mean spring companies. These lift companies contract this stuff out.

Four new 2.5 springs and new links...simple and good to go and better than what you have now.

this.

I've found their sway bar disconnects to be perfectly fine for my uses, and my LCA's are even all Rough Country. I updated them to Johnny Joints when their flex joints no longer had preload, but the rubber bushings in the axle end are still good as new.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

RC doesn't get a bad rap for all their stuff. Especially the springs.

Their shocks suck and you've eliminated that. Other things suck but they don't apply to you.

Their coil springs do exactly the same thing every other coil spring does. Provide more height than a stock spring and with the right shock which you already have you'll experience a better than factory ride.

I echo again...coil springs are only made by so many mfg. I don't mean lift companies. I mean spring companies. These lift companies contract this stuff out.

Four new 2.5 springs and new links...simple and good to go and better than what you have now.

I obviously don't have any first hand experience of RC, just online reviews or posts complaining about sagging springs or bad hardware, I believe the bushings?

The 934's are listed as a 1" lift spring for a ZJ with the V8. They work well for the LJ and give 2.5" of lift. The rear springs are the heavy load springs. On a LJ without heavy armor or bumpers they give roughly 2.5". I have just a hair under 2.5" with the rear seat and hardtop and 90lbs tire carrier installed. Like you I dislike the factory rake and this combo set the LJ nice and level.
My front bumpstops are set at 1.5" and I have 4.25 of uptravel available on the shocks. My rears are a little different because I have a body lift that allows shorter bumpstops.

I see some reviews by people using it on their LJ, but seems like almost no info on their part of OME, I'm gonna look more into this. With a hardtop and rear seat but stock tire carrier will I be level?

 

[06lj]

I see some reviews by people using it on their LJ, but seems like almost no info on their part of OME, I'm gonna look more into this. With a hardtop and rear seat but stock tire carrier will I be level?

OME won't link the springs to the LJ but they seat the same and fit without issue. They are .59" taller than the TJ 933's and have 20lbs higher spring rate. Mine sits pretty level. As it sits in the garage today I have a winch on the front, hardtop and rear seat installed and the stock tire carrier with no tire spare mounted. Visually it looks almost level however the rear is actually just a little higher. I tossed a level on my slider for a visual idea of the angle.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

OME won't link the springs to the LJ but they seat the same and fit without issue. They are .59" taller than the TJ 933's and have 20lbs higher spring rate. Mine sits pretty level. As it sits in the garage today I have a winch on the front, hardtop and rear seat installed and the stock tire carrier with no tire spare mounted. Visually it looks almost level however the rear is actually just a little higher. I tossed a level on my slider for a visual idea of the angle.
View attachment 221958

Thank you for explaining that, I assumed you had an aftermarket heavy tire carrier and I didn't know how much a stock one weighs.

 

[06lj]

Thank you for explaining that, I assumed you had an aftermarket heavy tire carrier and I didn't know how much a stock one weighs.

I had a heavy Warn carrier installed but have recently removed it. My current rear bumper is 42lbs so with the tire off the stock carrier it is pretty close in weight to your set up. I have a set of 32's and 33's. The lift, by itself, will fit the 32's. I added the body lift so I could also run the 33's. 31's will easily fit. I ran 31's with no lift on a TJ years ago. I had no rubbing unless I disconnected the sway bar.