What the F*** now

Stinger

Stinger

TJ Addict
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Joined
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So today Stinger gave a big belch farted and died in the middle of the road--in traffic just before sundown. First reaction was "what the f*** now. Got out and saw a pool of gas just in front of left rear tire. The GD plastic line had broken at the fitting that joins to the hard line running up the frame. I pulled the barbed fitting out of the broken piece and for the next hour and a half tried to force the fitting back into the line. Laying in traffic in a pool of gas.:surprise:

After forever -actually a hour and a half- I was able to force the barbed fitting back into the line about one barb and put a small worm clamp over it. That allowed me to get back to the RV park.

So here is a question. I know I will need to drop the tank to fix this but what type of line will I need? Does it attach to the pump via a port or something more complicated? I suppose it is a dealer item but not sure. Anyone have knowledge of this?
 
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Stinger said:
So today Stinger gave a big belch farted and died in the middle of the road--in traffic just before sun down. First reaction was "what the f*** now. Got out and saw a pool of gas just in front of right rear tire. The GD plastic line had broken at the fitting that joins to the hard line running up the frame. I pulled the barbed fitting out of the broken piece and for the next hour and a half tried to force the fitting back into the line. Laying in traffic in a pool of gas.:surprise:

After forever -actually a hour and a half- I was able to force the barbed fitting back into the line about one barb and put a small worm clamp over it. That allowed me to get back to the RV park.

So here is a question. I know I will need to drop the tank to fix this but what type of line will I need? Does it attach to the pump via a port or something more complicated? I suppose it is a dealer item but not sure. Anyone have knowledge of this?
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Is it the short hard plastic flexible line from the fuel pump to the stainless steel hard line on the frame?

If so, don't repair it, it has quick disconnect fittings at both ends so just replace the whole thing. Last I checked they were about 25 bucks at the dealer. I can snag one for you and have it here when you show up if you like and they are still available.

Barring that, we can make one with the quick disconnect adapters that use AN stuff. The odd part about that is typically finding the -6 male to 5/16 hard line QD for the frame side. The other end is typically 3/8" hard line QD which is easy.

What year is the pump?
 
Blaine I don't know how short it is. It is the line that attaches to the stainless steel line that is attached to the frame. I need to use this vehicle for transportation so will have to attempt to make the field repair a bit more stable today.

Called dealer here that I always used. They tell me the line is part of a bundle and it goes for $93. but they don't have one and it will take several days to arrive. We leave Salt Lake tomorrow morning for Moab. Guess I wont be doing ay wheeling this trip.

So, if you could snag said line ill wait until I get there to fix this problem. It is a 2005
Thanks
 
Stinger said:
Blaine I don't know how short it is. It is the line that attaches to the stainless steel line that is attached to the frame. I need to use this vehicle for transportation so will have to attempt to make the field repair a bit more stable today.

Called dealer here that I always used. They tell me the line is part of a bundle and it goes for $93. but they don't have one and it will take several days to arrive. We leave Salt Lake tomorrow morning for Moab. Guess I wont be doing ay wheeling this trip.

So, if you could snag said line ill wait until I get there to fix this problem. It is a 2005
Thanks
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The recommended get you by repair consists of pulling the line and heating the plastic end in boiling water to soften it slightly and then pushing it on the barb. You'll have to strip the rubber back to do that. To pull the line off of the tank and this is where you have to be very careful, loosen the front nuts on the skid, then remove the back ones and lower the back end of the tank on a floor jack so you can access the top of the tank. Disco the filler neck, smog on the passenger side before you lower the tank.

The end of the fuel line is a quick disco onto a plastic nipple on the fuel pump. If you pull it sideways at all, you will break it and there is no way to fix it that I've ever been able to do so you're buying a new pump for 3-500 bucks. Be careful, push the fitting on tighter to release pressure on the clip, depress clip and ease the fitting off the feed nipple. Did I say be very careful yet?

If you can get that one for 93, do it. We'll spend that in AN adapters and hose and my dealer can't get it.
 
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Thanks Blaine except I have no place to drop the tank. Staying in RV parks. See you soon.
 
Small stuff like when I was laying on the pavement in a pool of gas my wife said the 4 ways were not right. One was bright and one was not bright. Least of my concerns right then.
Yesterday I looked into the light issue. Turn the key on and I had one bright and one not so bright tail light. No change with brakes applied. Because I had so much trouble with the MFS I figured there was some cross feed going on. Pull it out and found the harness had cracked even further. (No Blaine I have not ordered the fix kit yet--we are on the road). So ingot the pin out schematic from my FSM that is on the laptop. Then I traced each wire to make sure they were on the right pins. Sure enough I had gotten couple switched up so-—- each wire came out of what was left of the connector. Then I put heat shrink on each one and stuck it into the MFS one at a time figuring this surely would solve the problem.. Hell no.
No change. So let's see lights are on any time the key is on but they are of unequal intensity. Brake light switch? Indeed it had popped out of its bracket. Got it back in and it solved the on at the wrong time part but not the brightness issue. Pulled the covers off the lights ans swapped bulbs even though I could see the filliments were ok. Nope that didn't do it so I pull the left (dimmer of the 2) assembly off the jeep and checked the voltage of wires . All right there but the mounting screws were/are very corroded. In fact one had the threads rusted off and it was doing no good whatsoever I just happened to have what appears to be a metal license plate mounting bolt.crewed that into the bad hole and bingo bulb stated burning both filaments. So I had crossed wires, an defective brake light switch, and a bad ground. Took damn near all day to find these boring little issues! That is what prompts WTFN.o_O
 
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Want to know the definition of agony? Sitting in Moab for 4 days with a jeep I can only trust to get me to the market and golf course. I don't know whether to:mad: or to:(!
 
That really, really blows man. It sounds like there's quite a bit more fine tuning to be done in order to get this thing where it needs to be?

Maybe you should have just left the engine stock... I kid, I kid :p
 
Hot Rodding is all about the details, and chasing down the details just blows big time. I think that's why when you do a successful mod on most anything you get kudos and two free punches on your man card. Hang in there Frank, it'll all work itself out in time. Especially with a little help from your friends.
 
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badlieutenant said:
My stock LJ rubicon is so awesome
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Yeah, I agree. My TJ has quick release sway bar disconnects but no lift or any other mechanical mods. That's how they were designed and that's what makes them an all round great machine. Plus I don't have to spend big $$ on fixing shit.

fbf06eb48cf0f63decbb15d629a08c6c.jpg
 
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Pete the Kiwi said:
Yeah, I agree. My TJ has quick release sway bar disconnects but no lift or any other mechanical mods. That's how they were designed and that's what makes them an all round great machine. Plus I don't have to spend big $$ on fixing shit.

View attachment 4152
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To each their own. Fixing shit is my hobby. Plus I built my jeep to go where I want to go.
 
Stinger said:
To each their own. Fixing shit is my hobby. Plus I built my jeep to go where I want to go.
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Lol, absolutely. I love Jeeps because they're like Lego for grown ups, you can build them up how you want. My problem isn't that I don't want a tidy 2 or 3 inch lift but it's the ex wife (alimony), the $400,000 mortgage, the new wife and 3 kids that determine what mods I can make, and what I can/can't afford to fix.
 
Pete the Kiwi said:
Lol, absolutely. I love Jeeps because they're like Lego for grown ups, you can build them up how you want. My problem isn't that I don't want a tidy 2 or 3 inch lift but it's the ex wife (alimony), the $400,000 mortgage, the new wife and 3 kids that determine what mods I can make, and what I can/can't afford to fix.
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No problem mate. Seriously.
I got all of that stuff done several moons ago. Now I am spending the parasites inheritance! We figure its our turn now.
The reason I post all of the really irritating stuff on both of my favorite forums is for education. If just one person benefits from my lessons learned, I feel better.

PS. I now actually get more of a kick out of building than wheelin. I have learned more in the last 2 1/2 years about engine ( and other stuff) swaps than I thought possible- from computers, to brakes, to drive lines, to painting, to wiring, to cooling systems, to fuel systems, to suspension adjustments, to wheel/tire balance and selection, to air conditioning, to hydro boost steering and brakes..... Well you get the idea. It is a good thing it's my hobby, otherwise I just might have to open a vein!

PPS sometimes the GD frustration level gets a bit high. You may be able to tell by the terse, snarky, pointed comments. Please forgive an old man. Wait who you calling old?:mad:
Cheers!
 
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It's a damn good thing you like working on it as much as you do driving it, or else you'd be screwed. Reminds me of my motorcycles. They're always in pieces and one of them is hardly ever ridden. However, I enjoy tinkering and wrenching on them as much as I do riding them.
 
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