What u-joints come on the TJ?

I just happened to stumble upon this.
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Recently ordered all the U-joints for my '06 LJR. If I'm reading this chart correctly it call for the 1310X for the rear driveshaft.

Mine has 1330X u-joints in the rear.

I'm the second owner of this prior unmolested jeep with what appears to be the OEM shaft.
 
Look at the chart I posted #35. Its an updated one fron dennys. Its shows the Unlimited Rubicon having 1330s in the rear
 
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Jerry Bransford I have a 2003 rubicon and wanting to order a new front drive shaft with sealed u joints from Tom Woods. What u joints would I need. Is the front one at the pinion different than the rest.
 
Quick question just to verify, are the 1310s correct for rear driveshaft used with the factory option 44 on my 2004 Sahara tj or is it a combo like the rubi? Wanted to be sure since it's stock but not stock at same time.
 
There are actually seven u-joints on our TJs, two on the axle shafts and five on the front / rear driveshafts.

Two front axle shaft u-joints:
The factory u-joint on standard (non Rubicon models) is a Spicer 5-297. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-760x u-joint which was specially designed for the Rubicon at Jeep's request.

Driveshaft u-joints:
The stock driveshaft u-joints are Spicer 1310. There are three u-joints up front and two in the rear. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-1310x which is sealed, as well as a stronger and more durable directly replacement upgrade for the standard Spicer 1310 size u-joint.

Notes:
The TJ Rubicon uses different driveshaft u-joints and I'll have to recompile my list of those since they vary between 2003-2004 and 2005-2006 Rubicons. All years of the TJ Rubicon came standard with the Spicer 5-760x front axle shaft u-joints.

Great!
I was looking into buying the u-joints and replace all at once.

Do all TJs have the same size, and number of u-joints?
Mine is 2000.

Thanks.
 
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Great!
I was looking into buying the u-joints and replace all at once.

Do all TJs have the same size, and number of u-joints?
Mine is 2000.

Thanks.
All standard (non-Rubicon) TJs use 1310 size u-joints. For a stock TJ without a SYE kit and CV driveshaft in the rear you need five u-joints, two in the rear and three up front. I strongly recommend Spicer 5-1310x u-joints for the front and rear driveshafts. The 5-1310x is a stronger and more durable direct replacement for the OE-level Spicer u-joint the factory installed.
 
All standard (non-Rubicon) TJs use 1310 size u-joints. For a stock TJ without a SYE kit and CV driveshaft in the rear you need five u-joints, two in the rear and three up front. I strongly recommend Spicer 5-1310x u-joints for the front and rear driveshafts. The 5-1310x is a stronger and more durable direct replacement for the OE-level Spicer u-joint the factory installed.

Grateful, thanks Jerry.
 
As long as its not a rubi then 1310s are what you're after

All standard (non-Rubicon) TJs use 1310 size u-joints. For a stock TJ without a SYE kit and CV driveshaft in the rear you need five u-joints, two in the rear and three up front. I strongly recommend Spicer 5-1310x u-joints for the front and rear driveshafts. The 5-1310x is a stronger and more durable direct replacement for the OE-level Spicer u-joint the factory installed.

My TJ suffered a touch of wobble and constant under seat vibes when I got it. Didn't have to come to a complete stop to recover from the wobble, but did have to let off the gas to smooth out.

I knew Suspension and driveshaft had not been touched by the previous owner, so went with the 5-1310x per your recommendation to start getting her caught up on maintenance.

Joints didn't have any play, 4 of the plastic seals on the cups were gone on the rear, and maybe a couple of needle bearings had disintegrated so they were not completely shot, but changing out those 5 joints made a world of difference. I've Tried forcing the wobble in the place it always showed up before (overpass near my home with 3 joint sections) and now just feel bumps in the pavement.

With the holidays over, going to be finishing up replacing the front end axle u-joints, ball joints, and unit bearings with the ones you recommended. Will be riding smooth as silk for spring.

Thank you both for the Info and recommendations.
 
For those of us with aftermarket drive shafts and aren't sure which brand we have. (I'm told Tom woods, but I'm not sure if that's correct)

Is there a general U-joint that these after market guys typically use?

First pic is of the rear, second and third is the front shaft.

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Driveshaft u-joints:
The stock driveshaft u-joints are Spicer 1310. There are three u-joints up front and two in the rear. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-1310x which is sealed, as well as a stronger and more durable directly replacement upgrade for the standard Spicer 1310 size u-joint.

You just saved me so much time, I wish I checked this 20 minutes ago...
 
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I know, for the current Tom Woods drive shafts, they allow you to choose either the ungreased Spicer or their own greased joints, which is comparable to the 1310s. The major difference between theirs and the Spicer greased joints is the location of the zerk. On the Spicer, the zerk is on the cross/body of the joint. On theirs, it's on one of the caps.
 
No experience with the 5-760XC, but just thinking about it logically, I don't know how much good that coating would actually do. I would think that the cross of the U-joint is one of the last points of failure. No matter how rusty they get, I'd have to think that the caps and needle bearings would be ground into dust before the cross goes bad. I suppose surface rust on the body could migrate to the ends and cause problems there, but that seems like a stretch. Am I completely off base here?
 
So for my 97 sport with a dana44 rear (not sure if that matters) and a SYE, I need:

Qty:2 — 5-760x
Qty:3 — 5-1310x
Is this correct? What about the cardigan joint?
 
Dumb question, but I see both a greaseable and a non greaseable option on Amazon. Does it matter which I get?
Yes, definitely. The sealed/non-greasable version, the 5-1310x, is a stronger and more durable version of the greasable 5-153x. You'd only want greasable if you did lots of deep muddy water crossings and then only if you were prepared to grease them all the time.
 
So for my 97 sport with a dana44 rear (not sure if that matters) and a SYE, I need:

Qty:2 — 5-760x
Qty:3 — 5-1310x
Is this correct? What about the cardigan joint?
Yes, those are good. The 5-1310x u-joints are the correct versions for the double-cardan joint too. Also for the front driveshaft which with its double-cardan driveshaft would also take three 5-1310x u-joints.
 
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