What's the best way to see what is blocking the HVAC blend door?

M

Mog1300l

New Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
North Jersey
I narrowed the problem down to the blend door. With actuator removed, can only move door about 10 degrees so something is blocking it. Moves freely but only moves a little. Is there any way to get a look in there short of removing the entire HVAC housing? Trying to not have to deal with the AC system if possible. I have a boroscope, just looking for the best way in to see what is blocking the door.
 
My last TJ I cut a hole in the unit just under the dash, fixed the blend door and then used that metal tape HVAC techs use on ducting to seal it back up. Worked perfectly.
 
CodaMan said:
My last TJ I cut a hole in the unit just under the dash, fixed the blend door and then used that metal tape HVAC techs use on ducting to seal it back up. Worked perfectly.
Click to expand...

Would cut a hole into the housing on the older Dodge/Cummins trucks. Used a hole saw, and a hole shroud with the threaded inlaid cap available at any marine hardware store. Could clean the debris and live rifle cartridges out in a minute. It looked like a factory install . . . .
 
  • Like
Reactions: CodaMan
So I drilled a hole in the only spot I had access but ended up on the wrong side of door. Until I get up the ambition to remove the entire dash, can I put a valve in the heater coolant line to shut off when I want AC or does coolant have to flow continuously through the heater circuit?
 
Mog1300l said:
So I drilled a hole in the only spot I had access but ended up on the wrong side of door. Until I get up the ambition to remove the entire dash, can I put a valve in the heater coolant line to shut off when I want AC or does coolant have to flow continuously through the heater circuit?
Click to expand...

People bypass leaking heater cores all the time. I just don't know if it would rust out faster without coolant running through it.
 
I don't want to bypass the heater core, just want to put a valve in 1 hose and shut it off when I don't want heat as a temp fix until I get to it. My question is will that be ok or does there have to be flow through the heater circuit at all times.
 
Curiosity got the best of me so took it apart. About 4 hours to get down to the heater core, but could do it a lot faster now. Whoever replaced the heater core for a previous owner didn't put the heater core in it's "slot". They just put it in parallel to the AC evaporator, blocking the blend door. Put everything back together properly and can now turn the heat off and on. Whole job went pretty easy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: billiebob, DaYooperTransplant and Jamison C
Mog1300l said:
Curiosity got the best of me so took it apart. About 4 hours to get down to the heater core, but could do it a lot faster now. Whoever replaced the heater core for a previous owner didn't put the heater core in it's "slot". They just put it in parallel to the AC evaporator, blocking the blend door. Put everything back together properly and can now turn the heat off and on. Whole job went pretty easy.
Click to expand...

Good to hear, congrats. And thanks for coming back and giving us a follow up. You didn’t get much feedback, but I do remember reading this last week and was curious as to what it was.
Sucks taking that dash out, but now it’s fixed.
 
Top Bottom
Back