What's wrong with my clutch?

Well, after poring through most of the master/slave cylinder threads, I didn't find any conclusive info on whether the parts for older TJ's will fit newer ones, and didn't find any leads on parts for specifically later year models. Only the 97-99 and 00-02 show up. I did see Jerry mentioned the 05-06 models (NSG370) have a different bolt pattern that the assembly mounts to. I went ahead and ordered the LuK CRS011 (for 00-02). Fingers crossed.
 
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The LuK CRS011 was delivered today and, aside from a few markings, it was nearly identical to the one I pulled off my '04 TJ. I installed it without trouble and took it for a test drive. So far, so good.

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Wanted to revive this old thread since I’m having the same issue with my clutch pedal. I can’t find a leak in the master/slave cylinder and the fluid level is fine. Could the master/slave still go bad without leaking, or would the clutch pedal issue be a sign of something else?

Not much resistance in pedal until almost to the floor. Can’t put it in fist or reverse while engine is running, but can while engine is off.
 
Wanted to revive this old thread since I’m having the same issue with my clutch pedal. I can’t find a leak in the master/slave cylinder and the fluid level is fine. Could the master/slave still go bad without leaking, or would the clutch pedal issue be a sign of something else?

Not much resistance in pedal until almost to the floor. Can’t put it in fist or reverse while engine is running, but can while engine is off.

There are other failure mechanisms and they usually have some other indicators. Throwout bearing can fail and the clutch pressure plate springs can fail. Both usually make really bad noises. And the clutch material might be about gone, though you'd see slipping in higher gears. And the only other thing I can think of would if the spring holding the throw out bearing fork on the other side of the bellhousing had somehow come off, which would be pretty strange too.

I just replaced my clutch and did some other work to clear up rust on the frame so have a good shot of the inside of the bell housing. for reference

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Thanks for the reply and the picture.
When I first noticed the problem a week or so ago I never noticed any unusual noises. No slipping in higher gears either.
 
Then I would suspect the master cylinder as well. It's a sealed system, but if a seal failed and it's starting to get air in the line you would get some strange behavior. It's not terribly expensive to get an OEM replacement.
 
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Wanted to revive this old thread since I’m having the same issue with my clutch pedal. I can’t find a leak in the master/slave cylinder and the fluid level is fine. Could the master/slave still go bad without leaking, or would the clutch pedal issue be a sign of something else?

Not much resistance in pedal until almost to the floor. Can’t put it in fist or reverse while engine is running, but can while engine is off.

Just because there are no signs of leakage or noises when operating the clutch master cylinder and there is very little resistance until almost to the floor (same condition that occurred in my Jeep) just means the hydraulic fluid is bypassing inside the cylinder; which stops the cylinder from building much if any pressure to operate the slave cylinder. This will cause the inability to put the transmission in first or reverse when the engine is running.
 
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Wanted to revive this old thread since I’m having the same issue with my clutch pedal. I can’t find a leak in the master/slave cylinder and the fluid level is fine. Could the master/slave still go bad without leaking, or would the clutch pedal issue be a sign of something else?

Not much resistance in pedal until almost to the floor. Can’t put it in fist or reverse while engine is running, but can while engine is off.

A fast temp solution to get it moving is to buy a Mityvac from somewhere local like Harbor Freight, and do the suckout of air on the Master.

I had my sons pedal hit the floor shortly after purchasing it 2 years ago (he was 9) and while refurbing everything I ran into a dead pedal. One quick rip of the Mityvac sucked rhe air out of the system and restored the pedal to full function

You will still need to address the issue with a replacement soon, but this gets you mobile

Quick reference video on a different car
 
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Wanted to revive this old thread since I’m having the same issue with my clutch pedal. I can’t find a leak in the master/slave cylinder and the fluid level is fine. Could the master/slave still go bad without leaking, or would the clutch pedal issue be a sign of something else?

Not much resistance in pedal until almost to the floor. Can’t put it in fist or reverse while engine is running, but can while engine is off.

Just because there are no signs of leakage or noises when operating the clutch master cylinder and there is very little resistance until almost to the floor (same condition that occurred in my Jeep) just means the hydraulic fluid is bypassing inside the cylinder; which stops the cylinder from building much if any pressure to operate the slave cylinder. This will cause the inability to put the transmission in first or reverse when the engine is running.

Good deal. I just wanted to make sure I’m chasing down the problem before throwing parts at it.
 
Apparently I’ve managed to screw up installing the new master/slave cylinder kit. I bought a Luk system and the install was straightforward. Get in, push on the clutch, and the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance and I can hear fluid dripping. Crawl under the jeep and fluid is coming out of the bell housing. I unbolt the slave cylinder and when I pull it away from the transmission, the push-rod came off and stayed inside the housing. I got the push-rod out, but did I somehow screw up installing it, or is there the possibility that the kit was defective? I’m leaning towards me being the culprit…
 
Apparently I’ve managed to screw up installing the new master/slave cylinder kit. I bought a Luk system and the install was straightforward. Get in, push on the clutch, and the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance and I can hear fluid dripping. Crawl under the jeep and fluid is coming out of the bell housing. I unbolt the slave cylinder and when I pull it away from the transmission, the push-rod came off and stayed inside the housing. I got the push-rod out, but did I somehow screw up installing it, or is there the possibility that the kit was defective? I’m leaning towards me being the culprit…

Update: Apparently you’re not supposed to cut the little white plastic straps off before installing the slave cylinder, which I did. The pushrod must not have been seated in the fork properly, and when I pushed the clutch the pushrod came out of the slave cylinder and the fluid was dumped. I re-installed the pushrod, bled the system by repeatedly pushing the slave cylinder pushrod into the slave cylinder (after I removed the cap from the master cylinder) to get the air in the line out. I would push the pushrod in about 20 times, crawl out and check the fluid level and top off. I repeated this process 3 times before I reinstalled the slave cylinder onto the transmission. Got in the Jeep, pushed in the clutch, and bingo! It worked!