Luk Clutch and Pedal Adjustment?

jeepins

jeepins

TJ Addict
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For those like me with a Luk Clutch. My clutch engages at the very top of the clutch pedal almost to the point of seemingly not being fully disengaged when my foot is off the clutch pedal if that makes sense? I'm sure it's ok since it has been years since it was replaced but I don't think there is an adjustment on those is there? I only get a little annoyed with how my clutch engages/disengages when I switch between my Jeep and my F150 (both manual).
 
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I looked through Section 6 of the FSM concerning the clutch; there is no reference to adjustment of the pedal, clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder to regulate how or when the clutch releases.
 
I just installed the Luk kit in my TJ, it works good and has a smooth engagement. There are slightly bent spring steel pieces that the clutch facings are riveted to. These determine the amount of cushion on engagement, too much cushion and clutch drags and does not get a clean release. Lesser cushion and you get a quick release and engagement at the end of pedal travel. No way to adjust it out, it is what it is.
 
Ok thought so. Yea I didn't think there was an adjustment when installing the clutch and if there is one on the Jeep would hesitate to even mess with it most likely.
 
My clutch is the same... it catches “at the top”, so to speak, and I’ve had the new Luk clutch in it since August 2019.

I was wondering if it had something to do with the clutch master and slave cylinders and if installing a new one would give the clutch pedal a different feel. The way it feels gives me the impression the clutch could start slipping prematurely.

I’m glad to hear that I’m not the only one with a new clutch that catches on top.
 
I was hoping that someone would chime in, with some sage advice, and say that the feel of the clutch “catching on top” could be remedied with a new cable, master cylinder, and slave assembly. I would give that a try if I knew of others who had solved their clutch issues by replacing the cable assembly.

I find it odd that my nephews 1997 TJ, and a buddy of mine who has a 2004 LJ, both with manual transmissions, have a clutch pedal that must be depressed fully in order to disengage the clutch. And when releasing the pedal to start moving, and when shifting, the clutch engages within an inch or two of pedal movement off the floor. Until I acquired my 2005 LJR, almost 4 years ago, I had never come across a manual trans vehicle with a clutch that begins engagement with the pedal almost fully released. I thought a clutch was suppose to engage/disengage with the pedal almost fully depressed near the floor.
 
BAPilot2 said:
I was hoping that someone would chime in, with some sage advice, and say that the feel of the clutch “catching on top” could be remedied with a new cable, master cylinder, and slave assembly. I would give that a try if I knew of others who had solved their clutch issues by replacing the cable assembly.

I find it odd that my nephews 1997 TJ, and a buddy of mine who has a 2004 LJ, both with manual transmissions, have a clutch pedal that must be depressed fully in order to disengage the clutch. And when releasing the pedal to start moving, and when shifting, the clutch engages within an inch or two of pedal movement off the floor. Until I acquired my 2005 LJR, almost 4 years ago, I had never come across a manual trans vehicle with a clutch that begins engagement with the pedal almost fully released. I thought a clutch was suppose to engage/disengage with the pedal almost fully depressed near the floor.
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In my expereince with 4 clutch slave cylinders, you are correct. The OEM one on my TJ was soft with a middle to top engagement point. The second was generic from an auto store that was extremely stiff and the engagement point was all the way at the bottom. I hated it so much after buying my LJ which had the OEM feel that I replaced the one on my TJ again.
 
I'm super late to this party, but aren't there two holes in the clutch pedal? Is it possible someone attached the master cylinder to the top one (red arrow in pic) instead of the bottom one (blue arrow in pic) by accident? Maybe a previous owner had shorter legs and was being "clever"?
1640573832193.png
 
babyjeep said:
I'm super late to this party, but aren't there two holes in the clutch pedal? Is it possible someone attached the master cylinder to the top one (red arrow in pic) instead of the bottom one (blue arrow in pic) by accident? Maybe a previous owner had shorter legs and was being "clever"?
View attachment 298711
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Having zero experience with this part of the pedal, it seems like the spring connects to the hole with the red arrow. Are both holes the same diameter, i.e. interchangeable?
 
SvtLdr said:
Having zero experience with this part of the pedal, it seems like the spring connects to the hole with the red arrow. Are both holes the same diameter, i.e. interchangeable?
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It has been too long since I stuck my head down there while replacing my master/slave clutch cylinders. Sadly I cannot remember :(

Edit: I just realized the OP has an LJR, not a TJ. I am not familiar with the clutch pedal assembly of LJs.
 
In my experience the nsg370 grabs at the very top and is awkward to drive coming from other vehicles. The 5 speeds I have driven also have grabbed high but not as awkward as the 6 speed. I always felt the 6 speed was a significantly lighter clutch feel.
 
The red arrow is a hole, for the return spring that you can see in the diagram. The blue arrow is a pin that the master cylinder rod slips over. That pin is pressed into the pedal. I don't think it's possible to swap the spring and the rod.
 
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BAPilot2 said:
I was hoping that someone would chime in, with some sage advice, and say that the feel of the clutch “catching on top” could be remedied with a new cable, master cylinder, and slave assembly. I would give that a try if I knew of others who had solved their clutch issues by replacing the cable assembly.

I find it odd that my nephews 1997 TJ, and a buddy of mine who has a 2004 LJ, both with manual transmissions, have a clutch pedal that must be depressed fully in order to disengage the clutch. And when releasing the pedal to start moving, and when shifting, the clutch engages within an inch or two of pedal movement off the floor. Until I acquired my 2005 LJR, almost 4 years ago, I had never come across a manual trans vehicle with a clutch that begins engagement with the pedal almost fully released. I thought a clutch was suppose to engage/disengage with the pedal almost fully depressed near the floor.
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It all depends on the master clutch and slave cylinder you buy. Ive bought an amazon one, oem one and auto o reilly one. They all have different feel and release points to them. OEM felt the best.
 
Tldelaney said:
It all depends on the master clutch and slave cylinder you buy. Ive bought an amazon one, LuK oem one and auto o reilly one. They all have different feel and release points to them. LuK felt the best.
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Fixed that for you. FWIW I have bought LuK and DuroCrap from Autozone and there is zero difference.
 
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