I just put adapters on my ‘98 Sahara. The studs on the adapters are just about perfect length but I noticed when using the open end nut to mount the adapter to the hub, the stock studs are really short and the stud doesn’t stick out of the nut at all. In fact it is about 1/8-1/4” from even being flush. I tried mounting my stock wheel up with the open end nut without the adapter and the fit is about the same, I just never noticed with the closed end stock nut. I want to replace the studs with something a little longer, does anyone have the stock stud specs? I know they are 1/2x20 but I need the knurl size and stud length too. Are all of the studs the same or are they different front/rear, disc/drum, 30/35/44, etc? I really don’t want to knock a couple of studs out to check since the adapters are already loctited in, hope someone can help me out.
Wheel stud specs?
- Thread starter JeepFE
- Start date
They can all be different lengths depending on the axle and brakes. I think the best way is to measure what you have and figure how much more you want. If the threads are 1/2-20 you need the diameter of the fastener to be safe so for 20 threads per inch that means 10 turns if I did my math correctly. Try that first before you buy new studs, if you have the correct number of turns you are 100% safe.
For studs that are a bit too short you can use ET (extended thread) lug nuts which I have on all four of my wheels. The size you want is 1/2x20. And the nut doesn't need to have all its threads engaged, Pagrey above has it correct. If you have at least 10 threads engaged on those nuts you're fine.
Like these... https://www.billetspecialties.com/s...ies/lug-nuts/item/e-t-conical-seat-lug-nuts-/
Like these... https://www.billetspecialties.com/s...ies/lug-nuts/item/e-t-conical-seat-lug-nuts-/
The stock front 97-99ish studs are shorter than the 2000ish and later studs. You could get ones for 2000+ and swap them in. They are the same spec except longer by 1/4” IIRC. Make sure they won’t be too long and protrude from your spacers afterwards.
The rear studs are short for disc and even shorter for drums. They can be swapped to the early fronts or late fronts. Late front studs in the rear is excessive but it works.
The rear studs are short for disc and even shorter for drums. They can be swapped to the early fronts or late fronts. Late front studs in the rear is excessive but it works.
If I’m understanding him correctly, he’s concerned about the nuts holding his spacers onto the unit bearings not being threaded onto the studs enough. Longer studs would be the only option in this case, so long as they are not too long of course.
The nuts that mount the wheel are fine, the adapter studs are a good length. I think I need more thread engagement on the stock stud.
If at least 10 threads are engaged you're fine. Use a drop or two of red Loctite on the nuts that hold the adapter to the hub.
You’ll honestly probably be fine, how many rotations are the nuts threading on? If you can get 10 rotations in a 1/2” bolt, you’re good. Basically you need as much engagement as the diameter of the bolt. So 1/2” of engagement on a 20 TPI bolt would be where the 10 number comes from.
Or, just snag some studs from a front 2000+ TJ application and run them if you’re still concerned.
So the knurl size is the same on all TJ’s? I might try late fronts on the front and early fronts on the rear, if that sounds right? I think the stock studs would be fine since my stock setup from the factory is about the same engagement but I would just feel better if the stud went all the way through the nut.
Knurl size is a bit larger on the fronts than the rears if I recall. I believe it’s 0.625” front vs 0.618” rear. But the fronts can be installed out back just fine, it’s just a bit tighter. I personally have the late fronts in all 4 corners. They work fine. They are long in the rear but it’s not an issue at all.
Late fronts up front and early fronts in the rear would work well. Or you could get the disc rears for the back if you don’t want to go to the larger knurl. The stock disc studs are barely longer than the stock drum studs though, so probably better off going with the early fronts for the rear as you said.
Looks like the rear disc studs are actually a tiny bit longer than the early front studs. Considering they also have the proper smaller knurl, you’re probably better off going with late fronts up front, and disc studs out back.
looks like that’s:
Front - (10) Dorman 610-449
Rear - (10) Dorman 610-234
Thanks for the info. I ordered those two sets. I’ll let you know how it works out. I’m going to rebuild the rear brakes while I’ve got it apart so that might be a while, depends how motivated I get.
The '98 ZJ with disc brakes use the 1/4" longer studs which is what I installed when I performed the BM rear disc brake conversion....
Rock Auto sells them for the front and rear....
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1998,grand+cherokee,5.9l+v8,1315953,wheel,lug+stud,7680
Yeah that’s the same application for the 03-06 TJ disc studs. At least, when I look at the buyer’s guide, it lists the V8 ZJ rear disc studs to also fit the 03-06 TJ (which would be the TJ disc application).
Weird how the TJ rear disc studs are actually longer then the 99 & prior front studs.
The '03-06 rear disc studs are probably allowing for the increased thickness of the mating surface of the rotor vs the thickness of the drum brake when it slips over the studs onto the axle flange.