Leaf springs don't usually need them.
I was thinking those control arms looked awfully flat and springy.
Leaf springs don't usually need them.
No adjustable cam bolt on my '05 LJ. The bolt is in the middle of the washer, not in an off-center hole in the washer.
My 05 LJ apparently didn't come with cam bolts either. Just some fat washers that the bolt rides in the middle of. As the bolts were rust welded to the inside of the bushings, I had to cut them to remove the control arms. Also the bolts were about a half inch longer than the other lower control arm bolts. Those fat washers lock the bolts in the middle of the horseshoe slot.
I’m planning on doing this soon; do you remember what bolts/washers you needed? Was there a hardware kit with the new arms?
I’m planning on doing this soon; do you remember what bolts/washers you needed? Was there a hardware kit with the new arms?
No way Jose. Am I allowed to joke these days?
I used Moog stock replacement suspension parts as my Pavement Princess LJ isn't lifted and I couldn't find a replacement for the factory bolts I had to cut. I was thinking about replacing them with some 9/16" grade 8 bolts and bought a pair of 4" long ones with nuts and washers. But I would have had to drill the fat washers out to fit the 9/16 bolt which were a hair too big to fit the washers. What I ended up doing was to use the shorter bolts from the frame end of the control arm on the axle end with the fat washers. The end of those bolt was just sticking out about 1/8" from the nut when tightened down. And I applied a liberal dose of locktite to each nut. The 9/16 were used on the frame end of the control arms and were a great fit.
I have a 9/16 drill bit and drill press and if I had a spare set of fat washers or knew where I could get them, i'd have been more willing to drill out the holes in the fat washers and see how they'd have fit. The 9/16 grade 8 bolts came from Lowes who had them in a 4" and a 5" length. I used the 4" as the 5" would have been about a half inch longer than the stock bolts that I cut.
Cam bolts wont create or remove vibrations. The purpose is to regain a bit of caster that the lift may have reduced.
If your steering has good return to center after completing a turn and it seems to track well on the highway your caster is very likely fine. And the larger the diameter tire you're running the less caster that is needed.Ok; I just figured lengthening the arms a bit would reduce pinion angles back closer to original settings.
If I don’t have any issues right now with the steering staying centered or returning to center, I may not need to add caster back?
Could using the cam bolts on later TJ/LJ be a factory build solution to a slightly misplaced control arm bracket IF there was a problem??? That would explain the relative rarity of their inclusion.
Wasn't thinking about the axle but the placement of the welded control arm mounts. The universal belief seems to be that all TJ/LJ's vary somewhat in their construction. If the mounts were installed by a person, not a machine, there easily could be some variance with a few far enough out to need adjustment. Assume that Jeep has gone to the accuracy of robots for the current vehicles but don't know that was the case with our frame's welded on appurtenances. With all the turmoil in ownership of Jeep/Chrysler at that time, not investing in the latest in technology may have been the case.