Which LUK clutch is the best for our TJs?

Go with the standard clutch unless you're running significant forced induction or something.
I chose to install a heavier flywheel but that is not necessary. Unless the rivets have dug into the flywheel, it's usually not necessary to replace it.
 
Don't waste your $$$ on a flywheel unless yours is physically damaged which would be surprising. Do NOT let anyone machine/turn the face of yours either, that would remove its slight dome shape. If there's any glazing present just use a piece of mild sandpaper or emery cloth to remove it. When I removed my flywheel at approx. 192k miles it was still in perfect condition.
 
While a new flywheel may not be required, the one above worked perfectly for me and it is cheap insurance. Seemed a shame not to start fresh. I did the rear main seal and timing chain at the same time. I was in the process of a low mileage engine swap so it was logical to do it all at once.
 
Don't waste your $$$ on a flywheel unless yours is physically damaged which would be surprising. Do NOT let anyone machine/turn the face of yours either, that would remove its slight dome shape. If there's any glazing present just use a piece of mild sandpaper or emery cloth to remove it.
Thanks for the great information gentleman, that is what I shall do.
 
A few things:

I have ordered and returned 3 throw out bearing, 2 National and 1 Timken. Timken fell apart in my hands. National was so crooked, there is no way i was gonna put that shit in there.
Sort reviews in that amazon link by "most recent", people are not lying.
I went with plastic that came with clutch, 13000 miles later it is still in there, didn't melt, didn't explode, didn't evaporated, or what ever else people claim it will do. I also had a hard time finding any evidence of the claims when i was researching.

OP you have a 6 speed. When i was looking for a clutch, i wanted to get a flywheel too. Upon searching, i came across multiple people stating that teeth on that flywheel were not lining up (or something of that nature). 5 speed has no issues with it, but with 6 there is something going on there from what i remember.
 
Don't waste your $$$ on a flywheel unless yours is physically damaged which would be surprising. Do NOT let anyone machine/turn the face of yours either, that would remove its slight dome shape. If there's any glazing present just use a piece of mild sandpaper or emery cloth to remove it. When I removed my flywheel at approx. 192k miles it was still in perfect condition.
I just found out that the previous owner did a clutch and the shop turned my flywheel is the luk flywheel a good one
 
The Luk flywheel should be good. Even a good used flywheel is probably fine. Just be aware the 91-04 and 05-06 flywheels are different and are not cross-compatible.

I personally went with a high inertia Centerforce flywheel, but that is far more expensive than an ordinary flywheel.
 
The Luk flywheel should be good. Even a good used flywheel is probably fine. Just be aware the 91-04 and 05-06 flywheels are different and are not cross-compatible.

I personally went with a high inertia Centerforce flywheel, but that is far more expensive than an ordinary flywheel.
Can you set aside your personal bias towards your purchase, and say that there is a felt difference and it was worth it?
I saw his video of justifying it, but it looked like he shifted it into 4low and tried to sell that as a magical effect of his flywheel.
 
Yes and turning the flywheel is not the same as replacing it. Most are fine without a replacement.
That and a TJ's flywheel should not be turned. The TJ's flywheel has a slight dome shape on its surface and most lathes used to turn flywheels will remove it and leave it flat. The Mopar Factory Service Manual specifically says not to turn the flywheel for that reason. At the most it can be lightly sanded with emery cloth or a very mild grade of sandpaper if there is glazing present.
 
Can you set aside your personal bias towards your purchase, and say that there is a felt difference and it was worth it?
I saw his video of justifying it, but it looked like he shifted it into 4low and tried to sell that as a magical effect of his flywheel.
Here is my opinion of the Centerforce flywheel.

It does change the shifting properties on the road. In my case I think it is an improvement but it may not be in every case. Previously I would feather the throttle between shifts to keep the RPMs close enough to where I could drop the clutch. After installation, I had to unlearn that and not feather the throttle. It actually is timed pretty well where I can shift and drop the clutch and stomp the gas without any jerking.

It also does seem to make it mildly harder to stall when being stupid with the clutch. Even with 4.10s and 35s I still often start from 2nd.

It has a mild effect of reducing vibrations when idling along in gear. It definitely does not eliminate them, but dampens them.

It also modestly reduces change in RPM from changing loads. At freeway speeds you will not notice anything at all. But hit an obstacle while idling in 4Low and it can be noticeable.

The flywheel itself fits pretty much within the profile of the factory flywheel. I believe the difference is roughly 25 versus 40 lbs. However, much of the added mass is closer to the center, so it doesn't have as large as an impact on rotational inertia as the difference in weight alone would.

I have no way to really establish the increase in rotational inertia, but if I had to guess, probably around 25-30%.

So it is not an earth-shattering change. It is for the most part subtle, and you will have to adapt your driving style slightly. Do not buy it with the expectation it will cure every problem.

Looking back at it, I probably would buy it again. But it is definitely not for everyone, especially at the price at which it is sold.
 
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