Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

[JMT]

I was going to go in June with the other group because my son was going to try and make it also with my grandkids. But depending on how things are going I might try and make both events.

I’m not even aware there was another group. I vaguely remember initiating that thought due to kids in school. I need to find that thread. I already have reservation for end of April. I think I’m there about 9 days. It will be nice to have some days on either end. I’m ready to go now.

 

[Wildman]

I’m not even aware there was another group. I vaguely remember initiating that thought due to kids in school. I need to find that thread. I already have reservation for end of April. I think I’m there about 9 days. It will be nice to have some days on either end. I’m ready to go now.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/moab-2023-week-of-june-11th.64073/

 

[RangerRick]

One step closer to hikers bailing out before @Wildman comes blazing down the trial!

Congrats on all the work as of late Rick.

I am getting closer to being back on the trail myself with my Cummins powered CJ-7 project.

Wife's been quoted as saying:

"What the hell gives with all those levers? Looks more like dad's John Deere tractor than a Jeep!"

Also interested in feedback on those ball joint eliminators after you've had some time out in the field with them. I only get about 3 to 4 seasons max from ball joints regardless of make before they are toast from excessive play and slop.


RR

 

[Wildman]

One step closer to hikers bailing out before @Wildman comes blazing down the trial!

Congrats on all the work as of late Rick.

I am getting closer to being back on the trail myself with my Cummins powered CJ-7 project.

Wife's been quoted as saying:

"What the hell gives with all those levers? Looks more like dad's John Deere tractor than a Jeep!"

Also interested in feedback on those ball joint eliminators after you've had some time out in the field with them. I only get about 3 to 4 seasons max from ball joints regardless of make before they are toast from excessive play and slop.


RR

Thanks Rick.

What do you think might be causing the trouble code on the transmission? I plan to pull the wiring harness and check all my connections before I loom it. Wonder if it's just due to it sitting for so long and it not getting fluid into yet? Also I'd gone back and read the instructions from the builder of my transmission and I was supposed to start it in neutral instead of park. Hopefully since I didn't run it for very long I'll be OK.

Can't wait to see that CJ7 diesel in action.

 

[RangerRick]

I don't think it matters too much on Neutral vs. Park especially if you caught it quick.

I have to give some thought on the TC you're getting though.

Yeah, I have to make an ARP bolt order for clutch cover bolts, bellhousing to SAE adapter bolts and a few other fasteners soon.

I always use premium ARP when performance is critical such as clutches, head bolts or studs and rocker studs etc.... Only time is if it is some kind of special "stretch or yield to torque" application fastener that a particular manufacturer makes special note about.

RR

 

[Wildman]

I don't think it matters too much on Neutral vs. Park especially if you caught it quick.

I have to give some thought on the TC you're getting though.

Yeah, I have to make an ARP bolt order for clutch cover bolts, bellhousing to SAE adapter bolts and a few other fasteners soon.

I always use premium ARP when performance is critical such as clutches, head bolts or studs and rocker studs etc.... Only time is if it is some kind of special "stretch or yield to torque" application fastener that a particular manufacturer makes special note about.

RR

Yep, I've used ARP on pretty much everything I could for the same reasons.

Just so you don't have to go searching. I need to get more of the exhaust finished and the radiator installed before I try to start it again. Was just looking for that proof of life & that I'd gotten the wiring correct before I did anymore work.

 

[Wildman]

Been going thru stuff and trying to cut down on all the boxes I had. Here is my pile of empty boxes that needs to go to the dump.

Started the engine one more time just to hear it run before I pulled the wiring harness. WOW what a PITA to get all that out when I've got everything else hooked up. But it's out and now I'll check the wires to the transmission to verify the harness is good prior to looming it.

No reason to sit out in the garage so I took everything I THINK I'll need inside. Now to get working on this and try to make it look maybe 50% as good as the job that @Mike_H & @Jamison C did on their wiring harnesses.

Got snow on the ground now and it doesn't matter how much I stomp my feet I always track some inside. Wet floors for a bit.

 

[Wildman]

@pc1p I know you've built some harnesses also before so do you possible have any ideas as to what could be causing that TC? I'm going to check my wiring but doubt that this is the issue to honest since I didn't touch that part of the harness.

 

[Wildman]

Got it all wrote out so I can just test stuff and don't have to be trying to read the wiring diagram and do continuity tests at the same time.

 

[Wildman]

Man I need glasses............. Shit wait hold on what's that? I have reading glasses... But they still don't help when it's really fine print....

And the numbers on these plugs is SMALL... Now I know it's a 32 pin plug but I'm being a dumbass today.. So I started off reading it wrong. Had to pull the wiring diagrams back up and double check my notes. Then finally gave up and did the senior thing... Took a picture of it with my phone.

All 8 (eight) wires are properly wired and in the correct locations on the PCM & PDC. So that isn't what's wrong with my shift solenoid. So now WTF?? But I can work on getting the wiring harness loomed now and ready to be put back in the Jeep for a final time I hope.

 

[Wildman]

As I was falling asleep last night, I kept having this nagging thought in my head that I'd seen this problem before.
TC P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical if my memory is correct was a fault, I'd had with the previous transmission & wiring harness. But this was over 10 years ago and at the time I was pretty heavily medicated for pain so I could be mistaken. But if that is the case then from doing a little searching it'd appear the PCM could be the culprit. Now since it's a new transmission and wiring harness that would seem to eliminate the possibility of it being either of them. But I'll wait until I can run the transmission thru its shift ranges and make sure there if fluid making its way thru the transmission.

What causes the P0753 code?​

A common cause of the storage of a P0753 trouble code in the PCM is a faulty shift solenoid. Some other causes include blockage in the hydraulic system inside of the transmission, a mechanical failure in the transmission, a low transmission fluid level, and dirty or contaminated transmission fluid. The code could also derive from a faulty transmission control module or PCM.

I happen to have a spare PCM but it's untested, so I don't know if it's any good or not. Back when I'd first built the Jeep, it took me 4 tries before I was able to find a good PCM. I was having shifting issues and then other issues with them. I'll have to wait until I can get it together enough to start it again before I can try the other PCM.

I'm going to look at removing wires for the A/C system. The 6 Pack intake doesn't allow me to run a A/C compressor even if I wanted to so I can either ziptie up the plugs or just completely remove the wires. I'll have to look at it and figure out which way I want to go.

 

[pc1p]

@pc1p I know you've built some harnesses also before so do you possible have any ideas as to what could be causing that TC? I'm going to check my wiring but doubt that this is the issue to honest since I didn't touch that part of the harness.

Usually when you see this code, it's due to the OD shift controller solenoid. This isn't an uncommon failure and quite frequent from my dad's days at the Dodge dealership.

In your case, I would definitely double-check continuity and make sure that your trans relay is working properly first.

 

[Wildman]

Usually when you see this code, it's due to the OD shift controller solenoid. This isn't an uncommon failure and quite frequent from my dad's days at the Dodge dealership.

In your case, I would definitely double-check continuity and make sure that your trans relay is working properly first.

Well, it's a rebuilt 46RE that was built by Martin Saine to handle 500HP+ but it's sat now for 5+ years. At this point until I get the lines & cooler plumbed and the radiator installed for the engine, I won't fret about it. All the wiring checked out GOOD and last I knew the PCM was good because I'd loaded it to Chris (White Monster YJ) and it ran his engine fine plus as far as I know he didn't have any codes.
My thoughts at this time are it might be a sticky solenoid that will free up once it's ran for a while. His instructions also recommends that I put a quart of Lucas Transmission Fix in it also. I'll pick up a quart for once it's running so I can dump it in.

 

[Wildman]

I'm getting there but MAN is this a LOT of work. So far it's not looking too bad.

Had to break for dinner.

 

[JMT]

I'm getting there but MAN is this a LOT of work. So far it's not looking too bad.

View attachment 380585


Had to break for dinner.

What do you mean? It looks incredible! Hope the tranny solenoid code goes away.

 

[Wildman]

About 6 hours total to loom the whole harness. There were the fuel injector wires that I left the stock loom on since they were in good shape but that was about it. These little tools from Painless are worth their money.

PowerBraid and ClassicBraid Easy Install Tool makes sliding the loom onto the wires really easy.

I'd gotten the main harness done when I remembered that I had some 2" loom that I should have been using. It was all taped up and didn't want to go back and try to cut it all off.

All done and pretty. It looks good and I'm 90% satisfied with the job I did. I've got some stuff I've got to clean up on the engine but I think this will make it look a lot better.

I've got the headlight harness to still do and the welding control unit wires. But if asked if it is worth the time and effort I'd say 100% YES. The stock harness loom SUCKS and this is tons better than the plastic loom stuff.

 

[Wildman]

If anyone is curious about what I used I had bought this kit from Painless.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/70970

ClassicBraid Chassis kit P/N 70970​

This kit includes:

• 6 ft. – 1” ClassicBraid
• 10 ft. - ¾” ClassicBraid
• 30 ft. - ½” ClassicBraid
• 60 ft. - ¼ ClassicBraid
• 15 ft. – 1/8” ClassicBraid
• 2 ft. 3/8” Heat Shrink
• 1 ft. ¼ Heat Shrink
• 1 ft. ½ Heat Shrink
• 100 - 4in. Tie Wraps
• 40 - 7in Tie Wraps
• 1 roll - Electrical Tape
• 1 roll - Stretch and Seal Tape

 

[pc1p]

Well, it's a rebuilt 46RE that was built by Martin Saine to handle 500HP+ but it's sat now for 5+ years. At this point until I get the lines & cooler plumbed and the radiator installed for the engine, I won't fret about it. All the wiring checked out GOOD and last I knew the PCM was good because I'd loaded it to Chris (White Monster YJ) and it ran his engine fine plus as far as I know he didn't have any codes.
My thoughts at this time are it might be a sticky solenoid that will free up once it's ran for a while. His instructions also recommends that I put a quart of Lucas Transmission Fix in it also. I'll pick up a quart for once it's running so I can dump it in.

Martin is a RE legend and any Fastman-made RE should be fine, especially since it hasn't run before, I doubt there's a problem with the solenoid (possible, but highly unlikely).

And I agree - I wouldn't worry too much until you get it all buttoned up and get fluids moving. The fact that it doesn't have fluid in it may even be the reason for the code (the PCM not seeing pressure on the transducer). Looking forward to you getting this moving - you know I'm a big fan of Magnum stuff

(BTW, I just sourced a 1989 TF727 for my Jeep... I've decided the Hemi swap this time around will be kept short and simple).

 

[Wildman]

Martin is a RE legend and any Fastman-made RE should be fine, especially since it hasn't run before, I doubt there's a problem with the solenoid (possible, but highly unlikely).

And I agree - I wouldn't worry too much until you get it all buttoned up and get fluids moving. The fact that it doesn't have fluid in it may even be the reason for the code (the PCM not seeing pressure on the transducer). Looking forward to you getting this moving - you know I'm a big fan of Magnum stuff

(BTW, I just sourced a 1989 TF727 for my Jeep... I've decided the Hemi swap this time around will be kept short and simple).

I don't remember how I'd found out about Martin but one of the forums I was on I think had recommended him. He was great to work with and cut me a great deal.

When are you starting on the Hemi swap? Why a TF727 instead of the 545RFE?

 

[Wildman]

I woke up this morning to this... Had to do chores first. Snowblower started up on the third pull, it was nice.

When I'd first woke up I had grabbed my binder of the wiring harness that I'd printed off. After looking at it fora while I realized that I'd forgotten to add the wires for the overdrive off & the sense wire for O/D off. So I had to take apart part of the harness and then went and grabbed the old wiring harness that I'd kept. I KNEW there was a reason that I had. I pulled the two wires that I needed out and as I tried to pin them in the plug it wouldn't so I had to take the plug apart to plug the new wires.

And while I was doing all that I managed to break one of the pins on a wire. So I had to replace it by splicing in a new piece with a new pin.

Then I put the plug back together.

These were the two wires I'd forgotten about.

The harness done AGAIN and for the final time right now I HOPE.