Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

Blake Stamper said:
I was saying do away with the nubs entirely, unless I’m missing something what is their purpose, the top holes locate the flare so the nubs seem redundant.

I would weld on some nubs but insurance has the welder too so I’m just working off basic tools.

What do the plates do that a rivnut won’t?
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The nubs are what holds the flare to the armor. It fits over the nubs and a bolt/screw gets threaded into them.

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See the threads in the nub? And see the bolt thru the ball on the end of the flare? That's where your main structure comes from. If you don't have the nubs what's going to hold the bottom of the flare to the fender?

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Wildman said:
The nubs are what holds the flare to the armor. It fits over the nubs and a bolt/screw gets threaded into them.

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See the threads in the nub? And see the bolt thru the ball on the end of the flare? That's where your main structure comes from. If you don't have the nubs what's going to hold the bottom of the flare to the fender?

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I’m not following, why couldn’t you replace the nub with a nutsert, it’ll still be bolted to the tub?
 
Blake Stamper said:
I’m not following, why couldn’t you replace the nub with a nutsert, it’ll still be bolted to the tub?
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The tube fits over the nub which increases the strength of the flare. IMO if you're going to rub on it then no just a nutzert wouldn't be strong enough.
 
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Wildman said:
The tube fits over the nub which increases the strength of the flare.
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Okay yes now I am following

I guess now for me the question is is the extra strength necessary? The purpose of these flares is to easily remove before hitting the trail but still cover my tires on the way to the trail.
 
How many bolts hold this flare on? Are you trying to gain the ability to remove the flares when you don't need/want them? It's only 6 bolts holding the MC flare on. That isn't a LOT IMO...

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Blake Stamper said:
Okay yes now I am following

I guess now for me the question is is the extra strength necessary? The purpose of these flares is to easily remove before hitting the trail but still cover my tires on the way to the trail.
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I think they are needed. But that is me plus I'm not going to remove the flares at times and I do rub trees now and then...
 
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If all you're trying to do is have flares for the road then the ones I posted from Motobilt would work and you could use 4-6 bolts with nutzerts to hold them one. What I couldn't ever come up with was a flare I could remove for the front that looked decent which is why I went with the hated Metal Cloak setup.
 
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Wildman said:
If all you're trying to do is have flares for the road then the ones I posted from Motobilt would work and you could use 4-6 bolts with nutzerts to hold them one. What I couldn't ever come up with was a flare I could remove for the front that looked decent which is why I went with the hated Metal Cloak setup.
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I might go that route, I’m considering mc for the fronts aswell, same thing I want the advantages of not having flares but need coverage since it’s my daily driver and I have known people to get ticketed for tire coverage where I live.

Originally I was going to do quick release mud flaps but I can’t think of a way to do it without it looking pretty ridiculous.
 
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Blake Stamper said:
I might go that route, I’m considering mc for the fronts aswell, same thing I want the advantages of not having flares but need coverage since it’s my daily driver and I have known people to get ticketed for tire coverage where I live.

Originally I was going to do quick release mud flaps but I can’t think of a way to do it without it looking pretty ridiculous.
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When I lived in Commiefornia North, aka WA I just used a couple long lengths of 3/4"ID square tubing and a couple short pieces of 3/4"OD square tubing welded to a plate, then bolted to the frame, behind the tires. Just used a couple 1" long square bail lock pins to hold the longer tubes with mudflaps onto the short stubs.
 
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Mud flaps are easy... It's a quick release flare that is the problem and no one makes one that would be easy for the front. I had originally planned on GR aluminum fenders until people started talking about folding the flare when hitting something. I didn't like the idea of replacing $1K fender/flares on the front every 3-4 years or less if I got into something hard.
Hate on the MC stuff but I can remove the 8" flares I've got and either run without anything or get the 1.5" rub rails they offer.
 
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JMT said:
Yeah, mud flaps look sillier than silly. My GR rear flares come off with 4 bolts. I rolled on the side and the fronts were fine. The rears just come off and I use a tub slider.
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Exactly what I intend, the fronts I’m concerned about but I’m not in a place to do anything fancy up there so stock it’ll stay until it can no longer be used.
 
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JMT said:
Yeah, mud flaps look sillier than silly. My GR rear flares come off with 4 bolts. I rolled on the side and the fronts were fine. The rears just come off and I use a tub slider.
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I'd never heard of the fenders folding over if you had a flare but I guess it's a thing that happens It's why I ended up going with the MC stuff. Now with as wide as I am if I had 6" flares to try and cover as much tire as possible to keep the POPO off my back I'd be fighting to squeeze thru the trees. It's why I don't want anything wider than a 65" WMS axle & then I'd like to run a 4" to 4.5" BS wheel to try and tuck the tires in a little. Obviously I'd have to play with BS and see what I could get away with. I'm about 64" to 64.5" WMS right now with the spacers on my axles.

Blake Stamper said:
Exactly what I intend, the fronts I’m concerned about but I’m not in a place to do anything fancy up there so stock it’ll stay until it can no longer be used.
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I bent my drivers side front fender down on a snow run which was when I'd swapped out to Poison Spyder tube fenders with a 3" flare.
 
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Wildman said:
I'd never heard of the fenders folding over if you had a flare but I guess it's a thing that happens It's why I ended up going with the MC stuff. Now with as wide as I am if I had 6" flares to try and cover as much tire as possible to keep the POPO off my back I'd be fighting to squeeze thru the trees. It's why I don't want anything wider than a 65" WMS axle & then I'd like to run a 4" to 4.5" BS wheel to try and tuck the tires in a little. Obviously I'd have to play with BS and see what I could get away with. I'm about 64" to 64.5" WMS right now with the spacers on my axles.



I bent my drivers side front fender down on a snow run which was when I'd swapped out to Poison Spyder tube fenders with a 3" flare.
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I was originally gonna go with mce fenders before I did anything too permanent but with them no longer being available anywhere I have to go back to the drawing board.
 
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We started around 9 AM in Ellensburg, WA and didn't get off the mountain until 4:30 AM the next morning. We should have stopped or turned around when the S10 Blazer with a SAS broke a axle shaft... But NO we kept going. And we came off on the opposite side near Whistling Jacks on Hwy 410 about 20 miles east of Yakima.

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Hard to believe she'll be 23 in May.

We were doing a LOT of this & I was still on crutches. This was April 2005.

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This was right before this run... No weight bearing on my right leg didn't stop me from working on the Jeep.

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lBasket said:
Dang, look at them hips!!
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It was a temporary truck for me & honestly I thought it was ugly as sin. The ex-wife had to have a motorhome so we'd traded in my dually Mega Cab Ram on it. And yes I hated the motorhome too.

And damn that 6.0 was thirsty bugger and IMO underpowered after all the hype I'd heard about them. I was happy as heck to get another Ram.
 
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