They are called Anderson connectors/clamps, and are used alot in the battery powered forklifts. Princess Auto has them under a different name.
Winch Wiring Advice
- Thread starter JamesAndTheSahara
- Start date
They are called Anderson connectors/clamps, and are used alot in the battery powered forklifts. Princess Auto has them under a different name.
I looked at routing mine that way but decided there was too many sheet metal edges so I went under the grill and along the inside of the frame. I connected my winch directly to the battery but a switch or high amperage circuit breakers would provide circuit protection. You could also install a continuous duty solenoid and use a switch inside to turn it on. The 9.5 cti has a 450 amp draw so a switch would have to be rated or use two solenoids to split the load.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064MX7US/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Spiral wrap is heavy duty and not so thick as a garden hose.
https://www.securecableties.com/12-...hhRoBGhz2bLZx1NUL8aIao9C2PKR0OcBoCyuUQAvD_BwE
There is no way in hell I'd run huge cables all the fuck way to the front of the vehicle without at least some kind of circuit protection. My career in electrical/electronics tells me that's sheer idiocy. By all means, protect the cable as best as you can, but put a damn fuse or CB for it near the battery. I also put a 500 amp solenoid in for additional safety, but that's not nearly as important as the fuse although one alone is far better than nothing. Both are installed in such a way that they can be easily bypassed in case of emergency.
For those who squawk about starter circuits not needing such protection - the wiring there is far shorter and far better protected. Run a loop to the very front of the vehicle and get back to me. You do NOT want an unprotected, ultra low impedance power source arcing after a collision and/or due to wire chafing.
For those who squawk about starter circuits not needing such protection - the wiring there is far shorter and far better protected. Run a loop to the very front of the vehicle and get back to me. You do NOT want an unprotected, ultra low impedance power source arcing after a collision and/or due to wire chafing.
In my personal opinion adding anything to the winch between it and the battery just adds more potential points of failure. The starter motor doesn't have or need relays, or a fuse either, and the motors inside winches are essentially starter motors. Look at the wiring instructions for any Jeep size winch and you'll notice they all say one thing, connect it directly to the battery.
My winch is wired directly to the battery also. I agree also on the failure points.
when my winch leads rubbed through and shortened out killing my battery i bought some rubber transmission hose and ran each cable through it all the way from winch to battery. each cable being in their own hose to isolate them from each other. i used silicone on the winch end to keep water out of the hose ends. no more chafed cables.
This thread has me thinking I need some chafe protection for my winch cables. One more thing on the list.....
the transmission hose i used was expensive but, should last for many years. first thought was to use plastic wire loom but, that stuff degrades over time.
I'm assuming you bought it by the foot from an auto parts store?
It's hard to beat the protection and low cost of a couple short sections of old garden hose. Actually what I did was use a short length from the end of a fairly new garden hose and just installed a replacement connector from Home Depot on the 2' shorter hose.
Yes and no. If you have to route them in such a manner that they will encounter a wear point, then take care of that point. It doesn't take much to avoid that and only rarely are there unavoidable places where it can't be helped and those you protect.
I see very little clean routing and it just isn't that hard to do. We normally bring them under the grill with enough slack to not touch the top of the bumper or bottom of grill, then turn and go straight up almost immediately right behind the grill on the inner fender. A few clamps to hold that routing and then turn and go back to the battery on top of the fender. Usually one or both go under the PDC mount which acts nicely as a good restraint. Then to the battery with the leads cut to length and new lugs crimped and sealed. We have never had a single issue doing it that way.
Most of my wiring know how comes from working with an aircraft electrical engineer from Texas when I worked at the ambulance company. He had some rules I kept that have served me well.
Other than the shit loom from parts stores and the 10 bucks for 2000 feet suppliers, there is a lot of good stuff out there that doesn't degrade. I don't like the bulk of other stuff so I just use loom without the split on the positive ONLY when I have to loom it, rest of the time it is bare.
after the positive lead had rubbed bare at the grill and toasted a almost new battery i wasn’t taking any chances. most loom around these parts doesn’t last but a couple of years when exposed to the elements.
yes sir, i had some from another project but was only enough for one cable so i went and bought some more to do both cables. probably overkill but better safe than sorry.