Would you fix the camshaft on this TJ?

Greenmachine said:
Lol guys! Yea with the rust, I personally don’t like the way it looks although my mechanic and this other place I brought it to that does fluid film, detailing, etc said it’s solid. I was gonna do safe t caps just to cleans it up visually but also because I figured in 4-5 years it may not be as solid as it is now.
Click to expand...


I've never done any TJ frame repairs but from what I've seen the only reason to use safe t caps to cleans it up visually is because the frame has rusted to the point you can see into, or through, it and what's left looks terrible. A visual clean up now by sanding and painting the outside then Fluid Filming the inside at least every fall should keep it from needing the safe t caps in 4-5 years.
 
What problems led your mechanic to the worn cam gear? Because its an 05 so he checked or were there issues that caused him to pull the OPDA and visually check?
Everyone basically keeps saying the 4.0 is almost bullet proof so what might have caused a cam gear to become totally shot after 140000 miles if there were no signs of OPDA failure.
I dont know too much about engines but from what I think is that gear is there to turn the OPDA gear for correct timing which in turn drives the oil pump in the prosses.
I am pretty sure I read that the cam gear is softer (well not as hard) as the OPDA gear so one can wear the other.

Cheers
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
JEEPCJTJ said:
I've never done any TJ frame repairs but from what I've seen the only reason to use safe t caps to cleans it up visually is because the frame has rusted to the point you can see into, or through, it and what's left looks terrible. A visual clean up now by sanding and painting the outside then Fluid Filming the inside at least every fall should keep it from needing the safe t caps in 4-5 years.
Click to expand...
If the engine lasts that long even with a new cam and machined head?
 
Fishtaco said:
What problems led your mechanic to the worn cam gear? Because its an 05 so he checked or were there issues that caused him to pull the OPDA and visually check?
Everyone basically keeps saying the 4.0 is almost bullet proof so what might have caused a cam gear to become totally shot after 140000 miles if there were no signs of OPDA failure.
I dont know too much about engines but from what I think is that gear is there to turn the OPDA gear for correct timing which in turn drives the oil pump in the prosses.
I am pretty sure I read that the cam gear is softer (well not as hard) as the OPDA gear so one can wear the other.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Well I had been having intermittent very long cranking on start ups, and couldn’t quite get it sorted (tried a new starter), but I lived with it for a while.

Then what brought me in to the mechanic this time: I was merging onto the highway and a huge truck was there on short notice, so I punched it. The heavy acceleration made the Jeep buck like a bronco. It’s like the engine was turning fully off and back on for a split second repeatedly while the go pedal was mashed. Scary as hell. Under normal driving you would never know, but heavy acceleration did it all the way to the mechanic.

Check engine light code traces it to the cam gear, and mechanic said visually it looks thinner than it should be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Greenmachine said:
Well I had been having intermittent very long cranking on start ups, and couldn’t quite get it sorted (tried a new starter), but I lived with it for a while.

Then what brought me in to the mechanic this time: I was merging onto the highway and a huge truck was there on short notice, so I punched it. The heavy acceleration made the Jeep buck like a bronco. It’s like the engine was turning fully off and back on for a split second repeatedly while the go pedal was mashed. Scary as hell. Under normal driving you would never know, but heavy acceleration did it all the way to the mechanic.

Check engine light code traces it to the cam gear, and mechanic said visually it looks thinner than it should be.
Click to expand...
What gear and speed was you when you booted it to clear the truck Did it overheat at all or get hotter than normal even before the missing? Mechanic said cam gear looked thinner than normal but was there any wear on the OPDA gear that would have caused cam gear wear because unless I am way off the only thing that can wear the cam gear is the OPDA gear or lack of oil? Have you talked to your mechanic about trying a new OPDA and sensor before the cam swap given it was running ok with presumably normal oil pressure before you booted it because along with the long crank start-ups and missing at high revs it sounds like your timing is out plus you will need a new OPDA when you have the cam swap anyway.
 
Fishtaco said:
What gear and speed was you when you booted it to clear the truck Did it overheat at all or get hotter than normal even before the missing? Mechanic said cam gear looked thinner than normal but was there any wear on the OPDA gear that would have caused cam gear wear because unless I am way off the only thing that can wear the cam gear is the OPDA gear or lack of oil? Have you talked to your mechanic about trying a new OPDA and sensor before the cam swap given it was running ok with presumably normal oil pressure before you booted it because along with the long crank start-ups and missing at high revs it sounds like your timing is out plus you will need a new OPDA when you have the cam swap anyway.
Click to expand...
Not sure exactly the gear, probably 3rd or 4th. It happened in 2nd also later that day on the way to the shop. I did need a new radiator when I first hit it; I never let it get too hot but prior to my ownership possibly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Greenmachine said:
Not sure exactly the gear, probably 3rd or 4th. It happened in 2nd also later that day on the way to the shop. I did need a new radiator when I first hit it; I never let it get too hot but prior to my ownership possibly.
Click to expand...
Nobody else is commenting?
But seems to me its pretty hard to tell if a cam gear has worn thinner than normal unless its mic, ed up or inspected outside the engine , if it was scored and showing wear places on the teeth from the oil pump drive gear problem I can see that happening as it does with 05 & 06,s.
Not sure if its a common problem on a 4.0 for the cam gear to wear thinner than normal and needs replacing but there doesn't seem much mention of it.
I would ask the mechanic if changing the OPDA & CPS ($100 in parts and an hour labour) might work unless the mechanic advises it could be a disastrous decision or knows for sure the cam gear is totally shot and will fail. The reason I am saying this is you had no indication before it started missing and got the code that there was any problem at all.
Anyway I know shit but that's what I would ask if I was facing a hefty repair bill.

I had an entire head re conned on a Subaru once because there was water in the oil, when it was fixed it had water in the oil! turns out it was just the water pump and it was an internal water pump, Subaru dealer told me it was the head so I had them do it! Subaru dealer had to fixed it twice and I had to pay for it twice. lol
 
@Greenmachine Have you checked the alignment of the cam/crank through the OPDA? There is a relearn that has to be done through the obd2 port as well.

This can cause the rev limiter (bucking) to occur.

The manual pcm Issues are all o2 sensors showing bad when good and stalling while driving. Are you having either issue?

Thanks,

Mark
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fishtaco, deadbeat son and Rubicon88
Greenmachine said:
I will when I can, it’s in the shop and I don’t have any recent pics of the frame, but it’s a pretty good frame overall, not a museum piece but also not all rotted, especially for a NY Jeep. I didn’t use it in winter, neither did the previous owner, and it’s original owner was in Florida, so all in all it hasn’t seen too much salt.

if I keep it for the long haul though Inwoukd probably do safe T caps in 4-5 years I’d say, but my mechanic (and other trusted people that know more than me) say the frame ain’t bad right now.
Click to expand...
Don't do saf-T caps just for looks.

If your trusted wrench says it's solid...and you're getting it protected with some kind of oil...fuhgetaboutit. It's fine.

P.s.

We use PFC from Berkebile to undercoat vehicles here at the shop. It's the best stuff we've found.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Wranglerfix said:
@Greenmachine Have you checked the alignment of the cam/crank through the OPDA? There is a relearn that has to be done through the obd2 port as well.

This can cause the rev limiter (bucking) to occur.

The manual pcm Issues are all o2 sensors showing bad when good and stalling while driving. Are you having either issue?

Thanks,

Mark
Click to expand...
I’ll ask him for sure, thanks!
 
If it's truly a mechanical problem, at $3k, you're near the cost of a new engine, with warranty. Something to consider, if the Jeep is worth it to you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greenmachine
My personal preference might not matter in your area.. If you trust your mechanic, I'd ask them what they install and warranty. That way you'll have more confidence that they will have your back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greenmachine and deadbeat son
Rubicon88 said:
To add...it's only a 10 hour job.
Any experienced place will allow 20 percent for things that pop up working on 10 year old stuff in the rust belt.

The fact you're a good customer...
9-12 hours will get that installed for you.

Chew on that
Click to expand...
Brewster is very close, got a link to the place with the engine?
 
Greenmachine said:
Brewster is very close, got a link to the place with the engine?
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20210531-221423_Chrome.jpg


http://brewsterauto.com/
 
Top Bottom
Back