Wow that audio choice is stupid: yeah we'll see

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I'm going to do something I don't think anyone else has done. I can guarantee I'll be told it is dumb, but I "think" it will work better than what we normally do. Time will tell. I'm going to use the woofer in the factory locations that I have sealed off, and the small speaker modules will either mount vertically on the A pillars, or lay horizontally on the top of the dash.

I have two free channels of my 50wx4 amp, since I switched to a powered sub, and will use the amp to power the woofers and speaker modules bi-amped with the built in crossover. It only goes up to 200hz, so if that is not high enough for the modules, I'll add a separate electronic crossover. I'll go no higher than 350hz though.

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-t1-1828s-speaker-module-5-1-4-x-2-1-8--264-947
https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...uminum-cone-midbass-neo-driver-4-ohm--290-216
 
It's been a while for me, but i remember tang band an dayton being great sq stuff for very little $$. Definitely watching to see how this turns out.
 
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I like it! I've used Parts-express stuff before while doing some home audio builds. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'm using a 6.75" Sub in the factory location (console) and it sounds much better than I expected. Good Luck!
 
This is in addition to factory speaker locations in the dash and sound bar?
My idea is to use the factory dash locations for the Dayton woofers, the Tang Band Modules will be either on the dash firing straight up, or possible on the A pillars. I'll probably mount them with velcro as they are quite light. The sound bar will still have the 6" I have in there now. I have a powered sub mounted to the tail gate.

I have a 4 channel amp, that will power the dash woofers and speaker modules with the crossover set to 200hz (the highest it goes), the rear speakers run off the deck. The speaker modules will play from 200hz and up, the dash woofers from 63 to 200hz. The rear speakers play from 80hz and up, and the sub from 80hz and down.
 
My idea is to use the factory dash locations for the Dayton woofers, the Tang Band Modules will be either on the dash firing straight up, or possible on the A pillars. I'll probably mount them with velcro as they are quite light. The sound bar will still have the 6" I have in there now. I have a powered sub mounted to the tail gate.

I have a 4 channel amp, that will power the dash woofers and speaker modules with the crossover set to 200hz (the highest it goes), the rear speakers run off the deck. The speaker modules will play from 200hz and up, the dash woofers from 63 to 200hz. The rear speakers play from 80hz and up, and the sub from 80hz and down.

Is that tang speaker a 1.5" tweeter with a 3" x 1.5" woofer/tweeter? Is there a crossover in there?
 
Is that tang speaker a 1.5" tweeter with a 3" x 1.5" woofer/tweeter? Is there a crossover in there?
No, it's actually a 46mm full range driver, and the oval thing is a passive radiator used to provide lower frequency response. Passive radiators sort of work like a port.

I wouldn't expect this thing to get loud inside a large room, but being on the dash it will be pretty close, and hopefully has enough output there to work. They claim response goes down to 78hz, but that would be asking a lot at any decent volume. I'm going to run it from 200hz and up. If that is still too low, I'll need a separate electronic crossover, but I'm hoping not to need that.
 
No, it's actually a 46mm full range driver, and the oval thing is a passive radiator used to provide lower frequency response. Passive radiators sort of work like a port.

I wouldn't expect this thing to get loud inside a large room, but being on the dash it will be pretty close, and hopefully has enough output there to work. They claim response goes down to 78hz, but that would be asking a lot at any decent volume. I'm going to run it from 200hz and up. If that is still too low, I'll need a separate electronic crossover, but I'm hoping not to need that.

Curious to hear how that plays out. Keep us posted.
 
Just to get an idea of how loud these things can get for their size here are a few videos. This seems like a very similar driver, but without the enclosure and passive radiator. Skip to about the 10 minute mark to actually listen to them.


This one is using one of Tang Band's mini sub modules too, and it looks like there is no high pass on the full range modules, so mine shouldn't have near that much excursion.

 
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Just to get an idea of how loud these things can get for their size here are a few videos. This seems like a very similar driver, but without the enclosure and passive radiator. Skip to about the 10 minute mark to actually listen to them.


This one is using one of Tang Band's mini sub modules too, and it looks like there is no high pass on the full range modules, so mine shouldn't have near that much excursion.


Sounds good...now if you can seamlessly attach it to the a-pillars in a tight manner as the guy in the video said they shake when he takes his hand off the enclosure...or even upgrading the enclosure yourself to a stronger material.

Did you order these yet?
 
Sounds good...now if you can seamlessly attach it to the a-pillars in a tight manner as the guy in the video said they shake when he takes his hand off the enclosure...or even upgrading the enclosure yourself to a stronger material.

Did you order these yet?
Yeah I ordered them. I should be able to play with them this weekend if nothing more pressing doesn't come up. They do have mounting tabs on them, but I don't think I want to drill holes to mount them, but I may not have a choice.
 
I got the speakers yesterday. I've temporarily installed the Tang Band modules on the A pillars, and installed the drivers side Dayton woofer. Those Tang Band modules are insane. They get WAY louder than they look like they would, and they sound nice. I can't believe they can handle playing from 200hz and up with a 50 watt per channel amp and get loud with no popping sounds or weird noises, they just take it happily. These things are incredible for their size. Those that put stock in published specs will be alarmed by the 80db sensitivity rating, but those that have followed my posts on audio subjects probably know I don't worry about numbers on paper, and these modules are an example of why I don't.

The Dayton woofers are nice too. Some may think they look, and therefore are, wimpy because of the magnet size, but these have a Neo magnet, they are way more state of the art than most car coaxials. That Neo magnet is a lot stronger for it's size than a conventional magnet, the speaker also has a lot more x-max (excursion capability) than most car coaxials too.

So far, with minimal tuning, and not having the passenger side Dayton woofer installed yet, I'm very impressed with this setup. The biggest benefit is having everything from 200hz and up above the dash. No coaxial in the stock location, no matter what it is, nor how it is installed can compete. Even separates with the tweeter on the dash, while better than a coaxial in the stock location, only has about 3.5khz and up playing above the dash.

Before, the Jeep, while sounding decent tonally, had a very strong drivers side bias, with the passenger side seeming much lower in volume because of the crappy stock locations. That is gone now, it's much more balanced towards the center. When I get this all dialed in, and know it's reliable, I might package this setup for sale, with detailed instructions on how to do it and tune it. Not for profit, but to help others and make it easy. That's how good I think this is compared to any other option I'm aware of. Sometimes thinking outside the box produces wonderful results, and this is one of those times.

Oh yeah, I also need to fabricate a grill for the modules. I forgot to mention that. I have some ideas.

A few pics:

0502191825.jpg


0502191858.jpg


0503191702_HDR.jpg
 
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Are the midbass drivers and Tang Band modules wired on separate amp channels?
Edit: My question was answered above, its nice being able to read.

New question. Would it be reasonable to run the Tang Band modules by themself with a crossover around 150Hz? The reason I'm considering this is because I want my rear channels to stay amplified.
 
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I've been out of the car audio scene for a while, but the tang band and dayton products always won the best bang (loud ÷ sound quality) for the buck awards.

Still watching.
 
Are the midbass drivers and Tang Band modules wired on separate amp channels?
Edit: My question was answered above, its nice being able to read.

New question. Would it be reasonable to run the Tang Band modules by themself with a crossover around 150Hz? The reason I'm considering this is because I want my rear channels to stay amplified.
Yeah, they are running off of a Kenwood KAC-M3004, which is a 4 channel amp, with the woofers on 2 channels and the TB modules on 2 channels, using the amps built in crossover at 200hz, as the highpass for the modules, and the low pass for the woofers, and the headunit's crossover at 63hz for the woofers highpass.

Honestly, I think the TB modules can go down to 150hz no problem. I'm shocked at what they're doing at 200hz, they don't seem stressed at all. They have a passive radiator, and whatever it's tuning frequency is, is lower than 200hz, because it doesn't move much at all in my setup. I was afraid that 200hz was too low, but it's not.
 
I got the speakers yesterday. I've temporarily installed the Tang Band modules on the A pillars, and installed the drivers side Dayton woofer. Those Tang Band modules are insane. They get WAY louder than they look like they would, and they sound nice. I can't believe they can handle playing from 200hz and up with a 50 watt per channel amp and get loud with no popping sounds or weird noises, they just take it happily. These things are incredible for their size. Those that put stock in published specs will be alarmed by the 80db sensitivity rating, but those that have followed my posts on audio subjects probably know I don't worry about numbers on paper, and these modules are an example of why I don't.

Oh yeah, I also need to fabricate a grill for the modules. I forgot to mention that. I have some ideas.

A few pics:

View attachment 91730

I haven't looked in forever, but I am wondering if these might fit somewhere down under the piece of dash that covers the front of the dash/defroster area. You might need to cut out an opening for them and then still create some sort of grill, but it would be nice to have them tucked away, hidden. I see there are some even smaller versions that might fit. They would basically be firing up at the windshield, but that might be OK for the higher frequencies? Or maybe just dash as far forward as possible, so that the speakers stay in place with the windshield down? No clue what I am talking about, but I'm following along. I want better sound in my Jeep, but I really want to see the speakers as little as possible.
 
Before I put them on the a-pillars, I tried them flat on the dash firing straight up. They sounded ok like that, but they sounded better on the a-pillars. Firing straight up would work ok though. The ones I have get surprisingly loud, but the smaller they are, the less out put and lower in frequency they go.

They aren't all that expensive, so it would be worth a shot trying the smaller ones, and i they don't have enough output, you use the larger ones.

Once I figure out how I want to make a grill for them, they'll be less obvious. They are slim enough that they don't extend into your field of view.
 
I got the speakers yesterday. I've temporarily installed the Tang Band modules on the A pillars, and installed the drivers side Dayton woofer. Those Tang Band modules are insane. They get WAY louder than they look like they would, and they sound nice. I can't believe they can handle playing from 200hz and up with a 50 watt per channel amp and get loud with no popping sounds or weird noises, they just take it happily. These things are incredible for their size. Those that put stock in published specs will be alarmed by the 80db sensitivity rating, but those that have followed my posts on audio subjects probably know I don't worry about numbers on paper, and these modules are an example of why I don't.

The Dayton woofers are nice too. Some may think they look, and therefore are, wimpy because of the magnet size, but these have a Neo magnet, they are way more state of the art than most car coaxials. That Neo magnet is a lot stronger for it's size than a conventional magnet, the speaker also has a lot more x-max (excursion capability) than most car coaxials too.

So far, with minimal tuning, and not having the passenger side Dayton woofer installed yet, I'm very impressed with this setup. The biggest benefit is having everything from 200hz and up above the dash. No coaxial in the stock location, no matter what it is, nor how it is installed can compete. Even separates with the tweeter on the dash, while better than a coaxial in the stock location, only has about 3.5khz and up playing above the dash.

Before, the Jeep, while sounding decent tonally, had a very strong drivers side bias, with the passenger side seeming much lower in volume because of the crappy stock locations. That is gone now, it's much more balanced towards the center. When I get this all dialed in, and know it's reliable, I might package this setup for sale, with detailed instructions on how to do it and tune it. Not for profit, but to help others and make it easy. That's how good I think this is compared to any other option I'm aware of. Sometimes thinking outside the box produces wonderful results, and this is one of those times.

Oh yeah, I also need to fabricate a grill for the modules. I forgot to mention that. I have some ideas.

A few pics:

View attachment 91730

View attachment 91731

View attachment 91732
Did you ever design the grille for your tang bands? I've put the Dayton 5.25 in the dash and I'm running a tweeter from JBL 660c set on the dash. Sounds good and imaging is rock solid but I may want to try the Tang Bands.

Thank you!