Wranglerfixed

[mrblaine]

Well he just charged me $400 to fix a wire.

I've charged a lot more than that to fix a wire. Fixing the wire only took 15-20 minutes. Finding the right wire to fix and figuring out what was pulling the 5v reference in the PCM down to where it wouldn't start was an entirely different matter.

That took some time to go over all the harnesses and find out where the problem is. I've also worked on one for over 40 hours trying to find out why the monitors wouldn't run and no one out of the 20 folks who are experts at smog and PCM's could even begin to point us in any direction that was the key to an answer. Be glad you didn't need to get that one past smog. The owner was as bad as you are though.
He couldn't fix it, the 3 shops he took it to before me couldn't fix it, the 2 dealerships they sent it to couldn't fix it. He spent 4 months trying to get it fixed before he threw in the towel and brought it to me.

I told him when he dropped it off if we couldn't fix it, no charge. If we got it fixed and past smog, he pays full pop. He paid but was not the tiniest bit happy about it and this is his "I'm going to be buried in this thing" rig. Guess who doesn't work on his rig any more?

 

[MikeE024]

I've charged a lot more than that to fix a wire. Fixing the wire only took 15-20 minutes. Finding the right wire to fix and figuring out what was pulling the 5v reference in the PCM down to where it wouldn't start was an entirely different matter.

That took some time to go over all the harnesses and find out where the problem is. I've also worked on one for over 40 hours trying to find out why the monitors wouldn't run and no one out of the 20 folks who are experts at smog and PCM's could even begin to point us in any direction that was the key to an answer. Be glad you didn't need to get that one past smog. The owner was as bad as you are though.
He couldn't fix it, the 3 shops he took it to before me couldn't fix it, the 2 dealerships they sent it to couldn't fix it. He spent 4 months trying to get it fixed before he threw in the towel and brought it to me.

I told him when he dropped it off if we couldn't fix it, no charge. If we got it fixed and past smog, he pays full pop. He paid but was not the tiniest bit happy about it and this is his "I'm going to be buried in this thing" rig. Guess who doesn't work on his rig any more?

I fixed my older friend's Camry last week because it was pulling 5.7 amps when the vehicle was off. He was super thankful when it was all fixed and didn't complain that it took me half a day to discover and remove the hidden wires from an old Nokia cell phone setup that was tapped into battery power.

He also thanked me for fixing his John Deere skid-steer that two JD techs couldn't fix while I was in NY even though he paid them because he appreciated their efforts. The fix was corrosion on a wire from the safety belt switch to the control panel. One tech told him he'd need a new control panel but they were unavailable. After I fixed it, he moved on with a thrilled smile and appreciation that he didn't buy parts that wouldn't have fixed the little defective wire.

But he also respects that wiring issues are black magic to him largely because he doesn't have the patience or ambition to engage and build that skill set.

Just like how I pay for gearing changes, auto transmission repairs, and fabrication work. If I don't like the cost of getting someone's help, then I better learn how to do it myself or learn to deal with paying someone to fix my problems. It's a pretty simple formula.

 

[SoCalGlide]

If you'd like to feel better about things...at least you didn't pay over $3,000 for a Bullripper Reman that had numerous problems including a bad torque converter and leaking tail housing upon arrival...that required the installer to pull the trans to do the job again.

In labor alone, I paid around $1000 (initial install) + $700 (second install) + $500 (later when the Bullripper's solenoid pack shit itself and Eddie installed Bullripper's replacement)...and that part put me in limp mode about five miles from leaving the shop.

Eddie then installed a Mopar Solenoid pack that I got off of eBay at no charge because he felt bad for me. He also changed something on the Bullripper valve body that looked weird to him compared to what he'd always seen in a stock 42RLE. Good news is that it's been running well since October.

I guess I got lucky. My Bullripper has been great for over 2 years and 20K miles. It did develop the hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, but that was a PCM issue that WranglerFix took care of.

 

[MikeE024]

I guess I got lucky. My Bullripper has been great for over 2 years and 20K miles. It did develop the hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, but that was a PCM issue that WranglerFix took care of.

Regarding bad parts, I'd like to think that I was more unlucky than you were lucky. I was more annoyed with their operations department's disorganization and resistance to taking responsibility for the problems.

 

[AndyA]

It the past it has taken me two days to fix a software bug that ended up being a single character. My boss doesn't turn around and say that he spent $X on me to change a single character because he understands the value of time, knowledge and experience. Andy

 

[Weasellee]

It the past it has taken me two days to fix a software bug that ended up being a single character. My boss doesn't turn around and say that he spent $X on me to change a single character because he understands the value of time, knowledge and experience. Andy

 

[jdsouther]

The only things missing from this group are Cheswick’s cigarettes and some juicy fruit for the dumb Indian.

 

[DaveC]

Mark, I noticed the question about CARB compliance for CA but didn't notice an answer. Similarly, we have emissions teting in Maricopa County. I have the WF PCM and have had no issues in the 4 years since installation, so would it be safe to assume that adding/upadating to the new tune won't have any impact on emissions testing either?

 

[Rickyd]

Mark, I noticed the question about CARB compliance for CA but didn't notice an answer. Similarly, we have emissions teting in Maricopa County. I have the WF PCM and have had no issues in the 4 years since installation, so would it be safe to assume that adding/upadating to the new tune won't have any impact on emissions testing either?

That will depend on how strict it is. In california the tune gets read to verify it is a valid oem version on some vehicles

 

[OldBuzzard]

That will depend on how strict it is. In california the tune gets read to verify it is a valid oem version on some vehicles

Man, I didn't want to hear that, since Colorado follows California on most emission stuff.

 

[Mr. Bills]

. . . would it be safe to assume that adding/updating to the new tune won't have any impact on emissions testing either?

I think the answers to that question include, "Never assume" and "We shall see."

I am not aware of a CARB EO number for the tune, nor are there any representations at WranglerFix.com in that regard.

Here is the State of California's take on the subject of tunes and CARB EO numbers:

https://www.bar.ca.gov/arsc/newslet...ations-detected-during-smog-check-inspections

I take that webpage as meaning that until there is an actual history of people passing emissions tests in California with the WranglerFix performance tune, in the absence of a CARB EO number everyone including WranglerFix will have an opinion and a belief based upon available facts but no actual proof as to whether the California Bureau of Automobile Repair's new screening software will detect the WranglerFix tune. Thus, it would be prudent to keep the original PCM in case it becomes necessary to "return to stock" to pass smog.

I am hopeful that the WranglerFix performance tune will pass smog in California, but won't know from personal experience until March of next year.

 

[MikeE024]

Mark, I noticed the question about CARB compliance for CA but didn't notice an answer. Similarly, we have emissions teting in Maricopa County. I have the WF PCM and have had no issues in the 4 years since installation, so would it be safe to assume that adding/upadating to the new tune won't have any impact on emissions testing either?

Hey Dave, I hope the following info is useful.

The AZ the emissions station in Tucson didn’t ask anything when I had the rig smogged with FRP’s 4.0L tune a few years ago, and they didn’t ask me anything when I had it smogged with the Banks tune for the turbo. I have a sticker tucked away for the Banks kit but they never asked me for it.

 

[MikeE024]

Man, I didn't want to hear that, since Colorado follows California on most emission stuff.

I think the answers to that question include, "Never assume" and "We shall see."

I am not aware of a CARB EO number for the tune, nor are there any representations at WranglerFix.com in that regard.

Here is the State of California's take on the subject of tunes and CARB EO numbers:

https://www.bar.ca.gov/arsc/newslet...ations-detected-during-smog-check-inspections

I take that webpage as meaning that until there is an actual history of people passing emissions tests in California with the WranglerFix performance tune, in the absence of a CARB EO number everyone including WranglerFix will have an opinion and a belief based upon available facts but no actual proof as to whether the California Bureau of Automobile Repair's new screening software will detect the WranglerFix tune. Thus, it would be prudent to keep the original PCM in case it becomes necessary to "return to stock" to pass smog.

I am hopeful that the WranglerFix performance tune will pass smog in California, but won't know from personal experience until March of next year.

Regarding the CA folks, Mark could get his nuts chopped off if he claims something that the CARB folks don’t approve of.

Maybe someone in CA, CO, NY, ME etc would be willing to get a device and go see if it passes the current CARB test. That’s how I’d approach this if I was curious, and happily be the guinea pig if I could.

 

[Don Bulee]

Update.... I already installed the new solenoid pack and the PCM from @Wranglerfix.. I checked my battery at autozone and said it was totally good... and the jeep is still stuck in limp mode... now there are 4 codes...

P0700 - TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (MIL REQUEST)
P0750 - LR SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0562 - BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
P0706 - CHECK SHIFTER SIGNAL

do anybody know what would be the next step??? I'm out of ideas...... tomorrow I'll take to the electric shop again to follow the wiring looking for a bad insulation or something like that... but... any ideas on what to check next????

 

[Steel City 06]

Update.... I already installed the new solenoid pack and the PCM from @Wranglerfix.. I checked my battery at autozone and said it was totally good... and the jeep is still stuck in limp mode... now there are 4 codes...

P0700 - TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (MIL REQUEST)
P0750 - LR SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0562 - BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
P0706 - CHECK SHIFTER SIGNAL

do anybody know what would be the next step??? I'm out of ideas...... tomorrow I'll take to the electric shop again to follow the wiring looking for a bad insulation or something like that... but... any ideas on what to check next????

Do you have a voltmeter? I would start by checking the voltage across the battery terminals both running and off. Running should be in the range of 13.6 to 14.7 volts. Off should be close to 12.

Next, take some steel wool, and one by one clean all of the battery terminal connections. Take them off the studs, make every contacting surface shiny, put them back together. Same goes with the grounds on the body and especially where the grounds land on the engine block. If these are bad, you will get tons of weird problems.

 

[Don Bulee]

Do you have a voltmeter? I would start by checking the voltage across the battery terminals both running and off. Running should be in the range of 13.6 to 14.7 volts. Off should be close to 12.

Next, take some steel wool, and one by one clean all of the battery terminal connections. Take them off the studs, make every contacting surface shiny, put them back together. Same goes with the grounds on the body and especially where the grounds land on the engine block. If these are bad, you will get tons of weird problems.

A faulty battery conection could cause a tranny not to shift properly?

 

[Steel City 06]

A faulty battery conection could cause a tranny not to shift properly?

It can cause a huge number of random electrical gremlins, and I'm sure it could cause a transmission shifting issue among other things. Especially if it's an intermittent connection, where vibration causes it to rapidly connect and disconnect. Corrosion between the mating surfaces of the terminals is one of the biggest causes of intermittent connections.

There's a good chance it is something else, but this fix you can easily try at home with $2 of steel wool. Cleaning the terminals won't hurt anything; if anything at all, it will make the electrical system more efficient.

It could be another wiring gremlin down the line as well, but the terminals are a good place to start.

 

[Don Bulee]

Well.. Will do! Lets see what happens..

 

[Steel City 06]

Well.. Will do! Lets see what happens..

If nothing else, it rules it out. There are tons of forum posts about random stuff happening because the ground on the engine block got just a bit too corroded...

 

[MikeE024]

Update.... I already installed the new solenoid pack and the PCM from @Wranglerfix.. I checked my battery at autozone and said it was totally good... and the jeep is still stuck in limp mode... now there are 4 codes...

P0700 - TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (MIL REQUEST)
P0750 - LR SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0562 - BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
P0706 - CHECK SHIFTER SIGNAL

do anybody know what would be the next step??? I'm out of ideas...... tomorrow I'll take to the electric shop again to follow the wiring looking for a bad insulation or something like that... but... any ideas on what to check next????

You had a new remanufactured solenoid pack installed (my oem reman that Bullripper sent was junk).

Are you sure that your reman is good? I was told to only go with a new Mopar, but I hope that’s not your problem.