ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

[97' 4 Popper]

Looks like this will be my next project as the my tie rods are all pancaked and cracking. Looking at the service records from the previous owner, the steering stabilizer was replaced about a year ago. I believe I read somewhere that the tapered bolt was a one time use. If this is correct does anyone know where I can order just the hardware for the steering stabilizer?

Im looking forward to not having to death grip my steering wheel when hit potholes around town.

Edit: Just put all the parts in my cart to replace the drag bar and tie rod with all Moog parts for only $171 shipped from Rockauto, this seems like a steal.

By tapered bolt are you referring to the ball joint stud? I dont believe that is one time use only. You should be able to reuse all of the hardware. Just make sure you torque to spec, do not attempt to back off the castle nut to get the pin to line up. Instead just click the torque wrench (tighten) a couple more times.

 

[Daveandthe6]

By tapered bolt are you referring to the ball joint stud? I dont believe that is one time use only. You should be able to reuse all of the hardware. Just make sure you torque to spec, do not attempt to back off the castle nut to get the pin to line up. Instead just click the torque wrench (tighten) a couple more times.

I don’t think so. I believe the steering stabilizer on the drag link side uses a tapered bolt to connect. I thought I read somewhere that the tapered bolt should be replaced. The 35 pages on this thread was a lot to read so I forget where I saw that.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I don’t think so. I believe the steering stabilizer on the drag link side uses a tapered bolt to connect. I thought I read somewhere that the tapered bolt should be replaced. The 35 pages on this thread was a lot to read so I forget where I saw that.

Ah it's coming back to me now, you are correct that it's not a ball joint, however you can't usually buy this stud separately from the stabilizer anyways....I have reused this stud and driven thousands of miles without incident and it's just a steering stabilizer anyways, the least critical front end component.

This is literally the only replacement stud I could find online, if you still wanted to go that route.
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/produ...6ah6TtzGL0zvyUHNWBcA-_HoA4FdMOOoEqdcq1gcLEPqB

 

[Daveandthe6]

Ah it's coming back to me now, you are correct that it's not a ball joint, however you can't usually buy this stud separately from the stabilizer anyways....I have reused this stud and driven thousands of miles without incident and it's just a steering stabilizer anyways, the least critical front end component.

This is literally the only replacement stud I could find online, if you still wanted to go that route.
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/produ...6ah6TtzGL0zvyUHNWBcA-_HoA4FdMOOoEqdcq1gcLEPqB

Awesome! Very helpful. I’ll get installed and if everything seems tight just run with it then. Appreciate the reassurance and response. I’ll keep my money for now and order a new Monroe if there’s issues.

 

[Tntitans21399]

Is the

• ES3096L Tie Rod End (x1)
• ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (x1)

same for the end of the drag link to connect to pitman arm? Will getting 2 of those above be the correct counter turn opposite of the day link end?

 

[Tntitans21399]

Also what is the difference from the DS1238 vs DS1430? One is $50 and other $100. Is one for TJ and cost more than the ZJ? Or is it stronger or better ball joints?

 

[hear]

Also what is the difference from the DS1238 vs DS1430? One is $50 and other $100. Is one for TJ and cost more than the ZJ? Or is it stronger or better ball joints?

if I'm not mistaken, that is the XJ drag link vs the TJ drag link. The angle is ever so slightly different....but I run the cheaper one on all my jeeps and have never had a single steering problem.

 

[Vtx531]

Does anyone have an issue with the adjusting sleeve rubbing on the spring perch at full lock? Looks like it might rub based on photos but I never heard any complaints so I'm guessing it doesn't?

 

[Captain Phoenix]

Does anyone have an issue with the adjusting sleeve rubbing on the spring perch at full lock?

I'll try to remember to let you know after I've done it. I have the parts waiting on me to tear the front end apart for the BBK install and haven't had time since I returned from the Persian Gulf.

 

[Weasellee]

Does anyone have an issue with the adjusting sleeve rubbing on the spring perch at full lock? Looks like it might rub based on photos but I never heard any complaints so I'm guessing it doesn't?

I haven’t

 

[Vtx531]

I finally just ordered the ZJ Moog parts. Will be returning the TJ tie rod that is still in the box.

I went with the TJ draglink even though it cost $50 more since it sounds like the other ones don't fit the steering stabilizer correctly.

 

[Slipstream]

The ZJ tie rod upgrade is a simple, cheap, and effective upgrade for your Jeep Wrangler TJ. Found on the V8 model Grand Cherokee ZJ, this tie rod is substantially larger than the stock TJ tie rod. The threaded section of the factory tie rod end measures .65" in diameter. The ZJ end measures 1".

Below you'll find some photos comparing the ZJ tie rod (and tie rod end) to the stock TJ tie rod (and tie rod end). You can see that the ZJ tie rod and tie rod ends are much, much larger than the TJ tie rod setup. This ultimately means you'll have a much stronger steering setup (which isn't a bad thing if you like to get your tie rod hung up on rocks, logs, and the likes).

View attachment 20181

View attachment 20182


Parts Required
The ZJ tie rod conversion parts can be purchased for a very reasonable price on Amazon. You'll need the following parts:

• ES3096L Tie Rod End (x1)
• ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (x1)
• DS1312 Tie Rod (x1)

The following parts are optional if you'd like to replace your drag link at the same time, with quality replacement parts. This is a great option if you want to refresh everything, including the drag link (not a bad idea if your Jeep has higher miles). Though the drag link will still remain the stock diameter, (the ZJ and TJ drag links are the same diameter) it will provide you with a completely refreshed steering setup, which is great for preventative maintenance.

• DS1430 Drag Link (x1)
• Steering stabilizer of your choice (I recommend this one)

Notes
DS1238 is cheaper but equivalent to the DS1430. Also, you may need 2 of the short ends and coupling sleeves depending on how much you're replacing.

Another option is to purchase the the Crown HD steering kit which includes the beefier ZJ tie rod, as well as a new drag link. This includes everything you need, all in one "kit".


Torque Specs
Drag Link to Pitman Arm Nut - 81 Nm / 60 ft.lbs.
Drag Link to Knuckle Nut - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs.
Drag Link Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 36 ft.lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod Knuckle - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod to Drag Link - 75 Nm / 55 ft.lbs.


Conclusion
Last but not least, this is a good article worth reading if you're interested in the various possible steering upgrades for your TJ: What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

This is an incredibly easy modification to do, and can be done while your Jeep is on the ground with the wheels still on, not even jacked up at all. It's really that easy!

Hey, thanks for the info. Are all of the above part quantities correct for this install?

 

[Chris]

Hey, thanks for the info. Are all of the above part quantities correct for this install?

Yes sir

 

[Slipstream]

Yes sir

Thanks again,.you stated you might need two of the short ends and an addition coupling sleeve depending on how much you replace, can you expand on what you mean by that, fairly new here. I also need to replace my track bushings, or should I just buy a better track bar?? Cheers

 

[Captain Phoenix]

Thanks again,.you stated you might need two of the short ends and an addition coupling sleeve depending on how much you replace, can you expand on what you mean by that, fairly new here. I also need to replace my track bushings, or should I just buy a better track bar?? Cheers

One of the stock tie rod ends is correct so if you don't want to replace it with new then you can just reuse it. Same with one of the coupling sleeves.

I don't think the track bar bushings can be replaced but a new stock track bar isn't expensive.

 

[Slipstream]

One of the stock tie rod ends is correct so if you want want to replace it with new then you can just reuse it. Same with one of the coupling sleeves.

I don't think the track bar bushings can be replaced but a new stock track bar isn't expensive.

I'm running 35x12.5x15 so I think the best bet it to replace components.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I just ordered the Moog parts. I went with a new drag link, Monroe stabilizer, two tie rod ends, and two adjusters to do the drag link at the same time. I’ll prime them and I’m thinking I might brush on some of the red oil-based enamel I used on the tub interior.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I’m not doing red… I got all the parts together today, degreased, coated with self-etching primer, then flat black enamel.

One thing I noticed, though… the hole for the grease fitting on the drag link (or the tie rod; whichever accepts the fitting in the side of the joint) isn’t threaded. I haven’t tried to shove the fitting in there yet, but it doesn’t seem like that will work.

 

[Captain Phoenix]

the hole for the grease fitting on the drag link (or the tie rod; whichever accepts the fitting in the side of the joint) isn’t threaded.

That's a known thing to watch for with Moog parts. I had to return one for that reason and I just found one now that looked threaded but I can't get the fitting in, after it's easy past too late to return it and after I painted it.

 

[User4574]

I’m not doing red… I got all the parts together today, degreased, coated with self-etching primer, then flat black enamel.

One thing I noticed, though… the hole for the grease fitting on the drag link (or the tie rod; whichever accepts the fitting in the side of the joint) isn’t threaded. I haven’t tried to shove the fitting in there yet, but it doesn’t seem like that will work.

If it is like my Moog parts the zerk is self tapping and will cut its own threads . Little pressure and easy peasy.