Questions about the next phase

Big John 04LJ

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Hello all! First off, thanks for such a wonderful forum! I have learned so much from all of you.
I want to start purchasing everything I need for the next phase of my 04 LJ build. Body lift, TT and everything that goes with it. I'm confused about what all I need because most of the threads are TJ specific. I have a 4" RockJock lift with all 8 adjustable control arms and the Savvy shifter cable.
I'm wanting to do the Savvy 1.25" Body lift so I can net 5.25" of lift for my 35s. I want to do everything needed to achieve a flawless build. So, I know I want the following...Savvy 1.25 Body lift, either a BrownDog (rubber mount) or a M.O.R. E. 1" MML . At this point do I actually need a SYE and new drive shafts or can I get away with the stock shafts? I already have the UCF aluminum engine skid so I'm leaning towards the UCF ultra high clearance skid. What about a Low Pro mount? I don't really understand what is actually needed to achieve a smooth TT. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Wow your setup feels familiar ;)

I was fine without SYE and ds with that combo and stock skid. But I believe you will need these once you do TT.
 
Avoid both of those and get some aluminum spacer blocks and MOPAR mounts for ~$175. If your OEM mounts are in good condition you can just go with the spacer blocks for $60-$80.
I’ve run the more motor mount lifts in several Jeeps with great results. To each their own
 
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I’ve run the more motor mount lifts in several Jeeps with great results. To each their own
I have Brown Dog and am happy with them.

First, good for you .. honestly.
Second, if his OEM mounts are good ~$75 to lift the motor can't be beat.
Third, I don't believe M.O.R.E. or Brown Dog can dampen, or last, as well as MOPAR mounts.
 
Looking at my motor mounts, they look a little dry rotten. I'll look for the OEM mounts.
 
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First, good for you .. honestly.
Second, if his OEM mounts are good ~$75 to lift the motor can't be beat.
Third, I don't believe M.O.R.E. or Brown Dog can dampen, or last, as well as MOPAR mounts.
Hey thanks man! Just figured I’d give my feedback… keyword there is BELIEVE. I completely agree if his motor mounts look like they’re in good shape, then hey buy the 80 blocks. Otherwise your gonna be into for close to the same amount.
 
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What about a SYE and drive shafts?
Can I do the body lift and MML now and do the skid plate later?
 
What about a SYE and drive shafts?
Can I do the body lift and MML now and do the skid plate later?

Yes. I probably didn’t say it very clear in earlier post but this is what I did with the same setup (Currie 4”, Savvy BL, 1” BrownDog MML). Had no issues or vibrations.

In fact my Savvy belly skid and UCF engine skid are still setting in the parts pile waiting. The only reason I have SYE and in is because got a great deal from Toximus when he pulled them to go atlas.
 
Yes. I probably didn’t say it very clear in earlier post but this is what I did with the same setup (Currie 4”, Savvy BL, 1” BrownDog MML). Had no issues or vibrations.

In fact my Savvy belly skid and UCF engine skid are still setting in the parts pile waiting. The only reason I have SYE and in is because got a great deal from Toximus when he pulled them to go atlas.
I was not able to get my UCF engine skid to work with my Savvy belly skid. The UCF engine skid was way too short, so i had to get the Savvy engine skid. Im interested to see if you have the same issue.
 
Is the SYE and new drive shafts even necessary? Is there a true benefit to adding the SYE? Are the factory drive shafts weak?
 
I was not able to get my UCF engine skid to work with my Savvy belly skid. The UCF engine skid was way too short, so i had to get the Savvy engine skid. Im interested to see if you have the same issue.

Well shit. I waited for Savvy to be in stock but finally broke down and ordered it when was on BF sale. Probably gonna turn into trying to save a few bucks costing me.

Is the SYE and new drive shafts even necessary? Is there a true benefit to adding the SYE? Are the factory drive shafts weak?

Are others who can explain it much better but at certain point the angle from lifting becomes to much and you need the double cardan style driveshaft. For a TJ I think is anything over say 3” of lift and for sure necessary at 4”. For LJ we can go bit further as driveshaft is longer so many don’t have issues with 4” lift. But the TT is similar to doing like 3” of lift at which point you will need for LJ with 4” suspension lift.
 
So I went ahead and ordered the Savvy 1.25"body lift and the M.o.r.e 1" MML.
I appreciate the feedback.
If I don't do the skid plate right now will I need to put a spacer between the factory skid and the transmission? From other threads, it looks like I'll need to get a longer fuel filler tube. Is there one that is specific to my LJ thats 1" longer?
 
So I went ahead and ordered the Savvy 1.25"body lift and the M.o.r.e 1" MML.
I appreciate the feedback.
If I don't do the skid plate right now will I need to put a spacer between the factory skid and the transmission? From other threads, it looks like I'll need to get a longer fuel filler tube. Is there one that is specific to my LJ thats 1" longer?
No spacer is necessary if you are not installing the skid right away. The spacer only help with drive line angles. Once you put the skid on and you don’t have the sye, double cardan, adjustable control arms yada yada… then that’s when the spacer comes into play. Go to any auto parts store with the old filler hose, they should sell it by the ft.