Been thinking about this a lot lately and the recent thread about costs made me realize I need a plan. I will need to save up for this stuff, and it might take a while but I need to know what to save up for, how much the cost will be, what can be done in steps, in what order, what I need, etc.
Having a plan and some idea of total cost will also help me decide if I want to go this route, or buy/build some sort of Trail only rig...
Hoping maybe some of you all can help me put a plan together? 
Jeep is typically trailered… sometimes drive on pavement but usually less than 40 miles one way. I'd say 95% off road use.
Jeep currently has:
4" + 1.25" lift (OME Springs/Shocks) + body lift
35 inch tires
Dana 44 front/rear, chromoly shafts in front, 4.88 gears, 16" BMB BBK
Tummy tuck (Savvy skids, engine, belly, gas tank)
Savvy short control arms
Currie steering
Hydro assist (PSC)
Rubicon lockers/4.0 trans/42rle auto — basically stock powertrain.
What I would like changed/improved based on limitations I've run into on the trails and things that keep me off some of the trails I want to run:
- A bit better approach angle (maybe… larger tires may help a bit?)
- better departure angle (I drag the gas tank and bumper a lot)
- 37-38" tires (axle clearance and roll over ability for larger rocks)
- More suspension travel (want to be more planted with large objects/deep holes)
- Roll over Safety (true roll cage w/cross bar behind seats for shoulder harnesses — but how to do this and have rear seat accessible when needed? — rear seat is NOT in the Jeep most times but would like to retain the option)
What needs to stay the same:
- Needs to stay street legal (ish) of course
- Can't get much taller (with 38's and the lift I have for example I think it will 'just' fit in the garage)
- Interior space — can't sacrifice too much as we load it up for overnight trips (Rubicon) etc. at times.
So big question is, how do I accomplish the things I would like changed, in the most cost/work efficient manner (hopefully doing as much of the work as I can myself)?
You're lucky I'm an expert at spending money, I'm sure i can help here.
Axles: If you're looking for do it once and be done, then take a gander at one of Blaine LJ's on 40s and Rockjock 60s. Wider axles, high pinions, big consumables (splines balljoints, UJs, wheel bearings) this is where I'd suggest spending the money. Blaine's rigs have smooth sliding armor in all the right spots, midarm, high clearance 60s, massive Ujs and balljoints, 5.38 gears. So it's massive axles and everything else smooth and light. No steel armor, etc. The problem with 60s and 40's around here is its so hilly at highway speeds it will absolutely SUCK. If you dont care about highway speeds (95% trail) then that's probably your ticket. I want to drive my LJ more on highway not less so i don't know that 60s are my ticket. Get them somewhere in the neighborhood of 65-67 WMS, slight stretch of the wheelbase to accomodate 40s, that's ideal. I'd only walk back from that based on budget. The problem with rockjock 60s is you're looking at neighborhood of $15k-$20k. if we could find a cost effective way to get a 44/60 front hybrid we could really help the cost here. IF you could find a front junkyard 60 that has the right pumpkin spacing this could help again, a 99-04 SD axle may be the best junkyard option that would make things reasonable. Lots of research to do here, my current plan is a JK housing with 60 C's but that's not straight forward either.
Tire Size: Its hard to go wrong with 40s around here, you're going to be doing VERY well at Walker, Reiter, Tahuya but its also going to push you into high consequence lines because you'll probably be bored on the normal jeep crowd stuff. Ref dirtlifestyle, rubberducky, etc local youtubes wheelers.
I went the JK44+37 route. It's a bastard route honestly. All said and done it didnt save me any money over a 60 but it got me in the game quickly which is what i was after and I knew nothing at the time. LIterally i did an axle swap without a welder and before my jeep was driveable (bought wrecked). Before you go down Jk44 route consider that when you upgrade the brakes ($1K), balljoints ($500), shafts ($800), housing ($500-2500), 35S locker ($1000) youre a lot closer to a 60 cost than you would have hoped. So if i was building from scratch one and done, build for 40s.
Travel: Im running 12" COs and 12" shocks front and rear and i love the travel, i've never found myself wanting more. It also make integration easier for me as a rookie builder. I think 12" is a great balance. I get a ridiculous amount of flex on the trail and once i get shocks tuned im sure it'll ride great on potholed roads.
Midarm: Midarm is an easy yes. Midarm you can do now i believe and when you stretch later you can cut the frame and slide it back. The short arm brackets were my biggest land anchor on local trails not to mention gets ride of the bounce on steep inclines. Its a rad mod. If you do it with stock axles then you'll reduce the resale on those. So it's not impossible to do it in stages but makes more sense to one and done.
Stretch: Now with regards to stretch or not, yes the LJ has a heck of a departure angle but i cannot remember a single instance where i have been hung up on the gas tank, it always slides off. I cannot say the same for diffs and belly skid. even my raised and savvy style skid. For our trails around here i think you can get by with LJ wheelbase and 37s. So you note you drag the gas tank, okay but do you get stuck on it? If not, then sure its there but its not costing you anything. The great thing is you have some awesome tutorials and I'll always be here to encourage you to cut stuff off! Remember if you do it wrong... you can always start over
Rollcage I had done at Those Guys Customs, they're cage experts they have my recommendation. I have that giant X behind the seats which i wanted for support and i would do shoulder harnesses bar as removeable with barclamps for the occasion you want kids in the back.
There my mind spew of information. We're in similar boats except it sounds like i drive more on the road. I've made lots of mistakes for sure but the good thing is my build has been very modular so to speak which is good because I've been learning from nothing and I really needed that progression of project size to build my skills and confidence until now where my confidence exceeds my skill! When i started, this wasnt the case I was scared to cut anything.
