Swapping Poison Spyder to Savvy Sliders

[mrblaine]

Yeah I would copy the savvy bolt locations on the bottom and drill some holes, use nutserts in the torque box. Seems like that should turn the PS sliders into something more decent.

It is more than that. You have to cut the holes for the body mounts into slots that go around them. You need to add a spacer plate that hits the raised section at the rear of the torque box to bolt that up tight. Then you need to add additional holes to the top part under the doors to get enough fasteners in them not to move.

By the time you do all of that, you have enough invested to easily start over.

 

[notnsuv]

I found this posted on @Irun thread and ordering:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XML5HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Then I see the probable need for 17/32" rotabroach (annual cutter) and don't see that in the kit. I do find one for $40. Went looking for the thread that contains the discussion about different cutter kits but no luck with that search. Hoping to find a kit with a variety of cutters including 17/32.

Any guidance on a kit or at least the thread. Thanks.

Won't kill me to spend for a single 'bit' to do the job right, tho'.

 

[NskLJ]

Doesn't matter, the rabid fanbois have literally said "yeah, so what?" when I posted up this pic and asked why even bother with the body mounts, just weld that bitch to the frame.

View attachment 317810

That picture made me modify mine when I installed my saavy body lift & new body mounts last week. It was a bit of a pain in the ass but much better now that the body isn’t connected to the frame. I should of went with Saavy from the beginning.

 

[mrblaine]

I found this posted on @Irun thread and ordering:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XML5HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Then I see the probable need for 17/32" rotabroach (annual cutter) and don't see that in the kit. I do find one for $40. Went looking for the thread that contains the discussion about different cutter kits but no luck with that search. Hoping to find a kit with a variety of cutters including 17/32.

Any guidance on a kit or at least the thread. Thanks.

Won't kill me to spend for a single 'bit' to do the job right, tho'.

I found a Hougen that was 11 and change to test fit on a Blair mandrel. Checking out the shipping was 17 and change. I don't need to know if they work for that price. Just get the 3 pack for 40 from Blair.

 

[notnsuv]

Might be a good time for new body mounts and check to see which BL is in it and replace with solid if needed. I've no clue. OEM rubber with Savvy BL pucks?

 

[Longwhitejeep]

It is more than that. You have to cut the holes for the body mounts into slots that go around them. You need to add a spacer plate that hits the raised section at the rear of the torque box to bolt that up tight. Then you need to add additional holes to the top part under the doors to get enough fasteners in them not to move.

By the time you do all of that, you have enough invested to easily start over.

I feel like the JCR's were close but I always thought they could be better. Some features on them I didn't like.

The Savvy came in stock finally so I went with it. Thanks for the info.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

It is more than that. You have to cut the holes for the body mounts into slots that go around them. You need to add a spacer plate that hits the raised section at the rear of the torque box to bolt that up tight. Then you need to add additional holes to the top part under the doors to get enough fasteners in them not to move.

By the time you do all of that, you have enough invested to easily start over.

Yeah I addressed the body mount holes in a previous post but I've never physically looked at a set of PS sliders so I didn't know they were THAT bad. I'm not afraid of drilling a few holes but the spacers for the rear section of the torque box could be a pain in the ass depending on how thick it needs to be. I've never measured that but if it's not a common thickness for flat bar then you'd have to get it machined.

Mind you I'm not trying to make PS sliders equivalent to Savvy (I already have Savvy's on mine), I'm just spitballing on how somebody that inherited some poorly designed sliders might be able to make them workable on a budget.

the A to Z sliders I had on my previous TJ at least didn't involve the body mounts and already had the spacer, but if I'd known what I know now I would have nutserted the bottom and added some fasteners on the side and a plate to sandwich the rocker under the door, which would have cost a few bucks and given me an excuse for a countersink bit.

 

[notnsuv]

I found a Hougen that was 11 and change to test fit on a Blair mandrel. Checking out the shipping was 17 and change. I don't need to know if they work for that price. Just get the 3 pack for 40 from Blair.

Took some looking but I found the Blair 3-pack at Eastwood. Shipping these days.. sheesh.. $18 USPS

17/32​

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[notnsuv]

Go look at all the holes I had to weld closed on my TJ before I added the Savvy sliders. I had Poison Spyder sliders before. I can't tell you the exact page right now but can go look in a while.

Looks like page 174, Post #3473.

I'm going to have to recruit a skilled welder or find another way to plug the existing holes. Wide open to suggestions.
Thankfully there are no holes in the floor pan for me to plug.

What little I know about welding I'm guessing this would have to be done slowly for cooling the sheet metal between mini-beads to avoid warping the tub? Don't want to find a buddy who says he can weld then have him get all aggressive and screw stuff up.

 

[mrblaine]

Looks like page 174, Post #3473.

I'm going to have to recruit a skilled welder or find another way to plug the existing holes. Wide open to suggestions.
Thankfully there are no holes in the floor pan for me to plug.

What little I know about welding I'm guessing this would have to be done slowly for cooling the sheet metal between mini-beads to avoid warping the tub? Don't want to find a buddy who says he can weld then have him get all aggressive and screw stuff up.

We don't weld up holes in the sheet metal that are not visible behind a slider or armor.

 

[notnsuv]

We don't weld up holes in the sheet metal that are not visible behind a slider or armor.

Thanks. Hopefully they will be behind the Savvy sliders.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

Looks like page 174, Post #3473.

I'm going to have to recruit a skilled welder or find another way to plug the existing holes. Wide open to suggestions.
Thankfully there are no holes in the floor pan for me to plug.

What little I know about welding I'm guessing this would have to be done slowly for cooling the sheet metal between mini-beads to avoid warping the tub? Don't want to find a buddy who says he can weld then have him get all aggressive and screw stuff up.

I was planning on just using a plug for the holes in my floor board that jcr sliders created for now.

I think the holes from my existing sliders may be covered by the new savvy ones except for the floor pan.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Thanks. Hopefully they will be behind the Savvy sliders.

The Savvy backer plates go almost right up to the bottom of the door, so as long as they're below the edge of the door they'll be covered. I have seen sliders here and there that go up higher in front or behind; any fasteners above there wouldn't be.

 

[Wildman]

I'm going to try to dig that up. Is welding the only acceptable option to fill those holes? Were they visible after the Savvy went on?

No they weren't visible I just didn't want all those holes in the body. I don't know that you NEED to fill the holes in I just didn't like having all the extra mounting holes.

Looks like page 174, Post #3473.

I'm going to have to recruit a skilled welder or find another way to plug the existing holes. Wide open to suggestions.
Thankfully there are no holes in the floor pan for me to plug.

What little I know about welding I'm guessing this would have to be done slowly for cooling the sheet metal between mini-beads to avoid warping the tub? Don't want to find a buddy who says he can weld then have him get all aggressive and screw stuff up.

I didn't have any warpage in the tub but my tub wasn't that straight to begin with. I'm going to just primer all the weld spots and be done with it. The tool that Alex had turned me onto with the copper pad was what made it super easy.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

No they weren't visible I just didn't want all those holes in the body. I don't know that you NEED to fill the holes in I just didn't like having all the extra mounting holes.



I didn't have any warpage in the tub but my tub wasn't that straight to begin with. I'm going to just primer all the weld spots and be done with it. The tool that Alex had turned me onto with the copper pad was what made it super easy.

I don't think I want to weld up the 4 holes in the floor or at least 2 in front of the seat. I am worried about warpage there just because that's a thin large flat area. I think if I didn't run a bed rug and floor mats I would consider welding them up.

I welded up a buddies new torque box and the floor pan was the toughest part just due to the large flat thin sheet metal.

 

[Wildman]

I don't think I want to weld up the 4 holes in the floor or at least 2 in front of the seat. I am worried about warpage there just because that's a thin large flat area. I think if I didn't run a bed rug and floor mats I would consider welding them up.

I welded up a buddies new torque box and the floor pan was the toughest part just due to the large flat thin sheet metal.

For the floor plans why not just get some rubber plugs? I do water crossings so I'd want as many holes closed up as possible.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

For the floor plans why not just get some rubber plugs? I do water crossings so I'd want as many holes closed up as possible.

Agreed! Yeah that what I meant earlier that I plan on doing plugs for the floor.

 

[notnsuv]

If you ending up going this route, here's a write up I did, following Blaine's guidance. There are some very useful tips in here that he provided. It made the install go exactly like it should!

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...alling-savvy-rocker-guards-and-sliders.55049/

I'm assuming all the mock up and complete fitment & installation of the aluminum backer is done, then removed for the coating of choice so I'm not beating the snot out of a newly coated part.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I'm assuming all the mock up and complete fitment & installation of the aluminum backer is done, then removed for the coating of choice so I'm not beating the snot out of a newly coated part.

Yes. Unfortunately I did mine about 3 months before he posted that but doing the fitup before coating was one of the lessons I'd learned on a previous project.

 

[NskLJ]

Yeah I addressed the body mount holes in a previous post but I've never physically looked at a set of PS sliders so I didn't know they were THAT bad. I'm not afraid of drilling a few holes but the spacers for the rear section of the torque box could be a pain in the ass depending on how thick it needs to be. I've never measured that but if it's not a common thickness for flat bar then you'd have to get it machined.

Mind you I'm not trying to make PS sliders equivalent to Savvy (I already have Savvy's on mine), I'm just spitballing on how somebody that inherited some poorly designed sliders might be able to make them workable on a budget.

the A to Z sliders I had on my previous TJ at least didn't involve the body mounts and already had the spacer, but if I'd known what I know now I would have nutserted the bottom and added some fasteners on the side and a plate to sandwich the rocker under the door, which would have cost a few bucks and given me an excuse for a countersink bit.

I just did mine last week the rear required about 1/2 of spacer I sectioned a piece of rectangular tubing, the front 3/16”