How to make an ignition switched power distribution block?

[MikekiM]

I have a few accessories I want to install that all need to draw ignition switched power. Just so many fuse taps or jumpers off of the cig lighter before things get sketchy.

I'd like to add a fused distribution block with power that is ignition switched. I know there is a relay needed (which I have plenty of), and I have the fuse/distribution block, but not sure how to wire it. Anyone care to share a tutorial?

 

[LONGJP2]

That's a lot of circuits.
You need to figure out how many and (aprox.) what amount of draw each one will have.
This will determine what size feed wire and relay you will need.
I would add a circuit breaker too.
Were you planning on mounting this inside the cab or out?

 

[hear]

I would start with where are you planning to put the distribution block? And are you going to use a relay box, or mount them individually on the fender or something? That dictates some of your answers. As far as where/how to tie into an ignition switched circuit, I would use a fuse tap off any switched 12V source, like the radio circuit or the cigar lighter as you mentioned, to your switch (you didn't mention a switch, but I assume you want these accessories switchable). The amount of current needed to trigger & hold a relay closed is minimal. So long as you're using relays, the accessory itself will be powered through the battery+relay, not through your switch/relay trigger.

If they aren't going to be switched, then maybe you keep everything in the engine bay using a 12V switched signal from the PDC.

I put my relay/fuse block on the tray under the brake booster & ran all the trigger wires from the relays through a grommet in the firewall to my switches. Fuse tap off the radio circuit for anything I wanted powered only with ignition, fuse tap off the fog lamp circuit for anything I wanted to run even with the jeep off. From the battery I ran a heavy gauge cable + circuit breaker to the relay box, and then ran whatever gauge wire was needed to the accessories. Grounded all the relays together near the relay box.

 

[JustDandee]

Following for ideas. I was thinking of running a relay box in the engine compartment which takes a direct battery wire and then all the switches (as mentioned by hear) run off a 12v switched power running through its own relay?

or just get something like this-

 

[NskLJ]

I have a few accessories I want to install that all need to draw ignition switched power. Just so many fuse taps or jumpers off of the cig lighter before things get sketchy.

I'd like to add a fused distribution block with power that is ignition switched. I know there is a relay needed (which I have plenty of), and I have the fuse/distribution block, but not sure how to wire it. Anyone care to share a tutorial?

I will usually tie it into accessory power ( hot in run but not start) this way the add on electrical loads will not be drawing while starting. Here is a diagram for a standard Bosch relay ( square one ) these are rated about 30 amps, I don’t know the rating on the knock offs. If you need a larger load capacity, I use this high amperage relays on the fuel injection conversions I do.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...6bkjuXcvszPOEofmnznkoPMJpXidA-EEaAq28EALw_wcB
. You could tie the relay into this box.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KBFWKS2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[98TxTJ]

I will usually tie it into accessory power ( hot in run but not start) this way the add on electrical loads will not be drawing while starting. Here is a diagram for a standard Bosch relay ( square one ) these are rated about 30 amps, I don’t know the rating on the knock offs. If you need a larger load capacity, I use this high amperage relays on the fuel injection conversions I do.

[URL][URL]https://www.summitracing....6bkjuXcvszPOEofmnznkoPMJpXidA-EEaAq28EALw_wcB[/URL][/URL]

. You could tie the relay into this box.

[URL][URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KBFWKS2/?tag=wranglerorg-20[/URL][/URL]

View attachment 391726

And use one of these to source switched power at the fuse box.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[LONGJP2]

but not sure how to wire it. Anyone care to share a tutorial?

If you're not comfortable doing it (and don't want to risk burning your jeep down), one of these might be worth the high price.
Comes with instructions too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006304HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They also make a 7 circuit version.

 

[KingCarGuyZ]

I made a custom fuse box that is ignition powered, run through a 120 amp relay for main power feed. The idea beaing that if you turn off the key (in a roll over or something ) everything instantly shuts down. I'll grab some pictures but its roughly 10-15 circuits I think with like 5-6 relayed switches. - you could probably find info on my build thread but ill wander out int he cold to take new pictures in a sec.

 

[MikekiM]

OK.. I suck. I should have been much more detailed.

First off, I already have an Auxbeam eight circuit controller for my lights, OBA etc. It works perfect. I don't need ten circuits, maybe three at most if that many, but I don't want to keep piggy backing off the cig lighter or radio. I already have something else on those. The distribution block was one I had from before I did the Auxbeam setup. I want to aux LED lighting. The distribution block will be mounted behind the glove box, high and to the right.

I have two, maybe three accessories I want at the tailgate..

• A single LED cube mounted to the over-tire cargo basket. It will be for illuminating under the rear awning for camp kitchen. It will have a quick disco so that I can unplug it when the cargo basket is removed. There will be a SPST switch mounted at the rear, probably in the plastic trim covering the rear seat belt, but certain on location. I have aux reverse lights recessed into the rear bumper so the cube will can be switched power.
• The second accessory is a 12" LED ribbon light that will be mounted under the rear Bestop Instatrunk. It will have a pin switch actuated when the tailgate is opened. Now that I think about it, that should probably be hot so the cargo area is illuminated
• Third accessory is a cig lighter outlet that will have a small power inverter plugged in. And like number two, as I think about it it could be hot since the inverter has it's own switch and fuse.

So let's revise my original question. I need two or three low draw fused circuits that are switched power.

 

[KingCarGuyZ]

OK.. I suck. I should have been much more detailed.

First off, I already have an Auxbeam eight circuit controller for my lights, OBA etc. It works perfect. I don't need ten circuits, maybe three at most if that many, but I don't want to keep piggy backing off the cig lighter or radio. I already have something else on those. The distribution block was one I had from before I did the Auxbeam setup. I want to aux LED lighting. The distribution block will be mounted behind the glove box, high and to the right.

I have two, maybe three accessories I want at the tailgate..

• A single LED cube mounted to the over-tire cargo basket. It will be for illuminating under the rear awning for camp kitchen. It will have a quick disco so that I can unplug it when the cargo basket is removed. There will be a SPST switch mounted at the rear, probably in the plastic trim covering the rear seat belt, but certain on location. I have aux reverse lights recessed into the rear bumper so the cube will can be switched power.
• The second accessory is a 12" LED ribbon light that will be mounted under the rear Bestop Instatrunk. It will have a pin switch actuated when the tailgate is opened. Now that I think about it, that should probably be hot so the cargo area is illuminated
• Third accessory is a cig lighter outlet that will have a small power inverter plugged in. And like number two, as I think about it it could be hot since the inverter has it's own switch and fuse.

So let's revise my original question. I need two or three low draw fused circuits that are switched power.

seems to me that you would likely want all of those on "full hot" power so they could be used when the ignition is off. the LED cube will be controlled by the rear switch and the ribbon light with the ground interrupt on the pin switch, the inverter is the only one that I might put on keyed power, just to reduce the chance of drawing your battery down, the inverter is also the only one that has the potential to draw any kind of real amperage. the other to you could feed with a 10 or 12 gauge wire and small fuse panel if you wanted to be professional with it.

Now that I think about it, there are several "Aux" fuse slots in the stock glove box panel, you could tap into the back side of that and have a really clean install.

 

[MikekiM]

seems to me that you would likely want all of those on "full hot" power so they could be used when the ignition is off. the LED cube will be controlled by the rear switch and the ribbon light with the ground interrupt on the pin switch, the inverter is the only one that I might put on keyed power, just to reduce the chance of drawing your battery down, the inverter is also the only one that has the potential to draw any kind of real amperage. the other to you could feed with a 10 or 12 gauge wire and small fuse panel if you wanted to be professional with it.

Now that I think about it, there are several "Aux" fuse slots in the stock glove box panel, you could tap into the back side of that and have a really clean install.

^^^^^ This is a great answer Thank you

 

[WestCoastDan]

I just added a 6-relay/6-fuse box to our JKU.
Run a large gauge power wire direct from battery to a bus bar which will allow you to run smaller gauge wire to each relay.
Use an ignition-controlled circuit as the trigger (switched of course) for the relay(s).
Add a properly sized fuse between the relay output and the accessory.

There are systems out there which allow the large gauge wire to be split to multiple relays without the bus bar, but I didn’t like the switches that came with those systems.

 

[NskLJ]

If you're not comfortable doing it (and don't want to risk burning your jeep down), one of these might be worth the high price.
Comes with instructions too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006304HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They also make a 7 circuit version.

That’s not a bad price for that, painless make good stuff.

 

[LONGJP2]

OK.. I suck. I should have been much more detailed.

First off, I already have an Auxbeam eight circuit controller for my lights, OBA etc. It works perfect. I don't need ten circuits, maybe three at most if that many, but I don't want to keep piggy backing off the cig lighter or radio. I already have something else on those. The distribution block was one I had from before I did the Auxbeam setup. I want to aux LED lighting. The distribution block will be mounted behind the glove box, high and to the right.

I have two, maybe three accessories I want at the tailgate..

• A single LED cube mounted to the over-tire cargo basket. It will be for illuminating under the rear awning for camp kitchen. It will have a quick disco so that I can unplug it when the cargo basket is removed. There will be a SPST switch mounted at the rear, probably in the plastic trim covering the rear seat belt, but certain on location. I have aux reverse lights recessed into the rear bumper so the cube will can be switched power.
• The second accessory is a 12" LED ribbon light that will be mounted under the rear Bestop Instatrunk. It will have a pin switch actuated when the tailgate is opened. Now that I think about it, that should probably be hot so the cargo area is illuminated
• Third accessory is a cig lighter outlet that will have a small power inverter plugged in. And like number two, as I think about it it could be hot since the inverter has it's own switch and fuse.

So let's revise my original question. I need two or three low draw fused circuits that are switched power.

The Painless 7 ckt. has (3) hot and (4) switched.

 

[MikekiM]

The Painless 7 ckt. has (3) hot and (4) switched.

There are two Painless 7 kits.. both are listed as Ignition Hot. I don't see the kit that is both hot and switched...

 

[Wildman]

There are two Painless 7 kits.. both are listed as Ignition Hot. I don't see the kit that is both hot and switched...

Here it is.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8OG2A/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[MikekiM]

Here it is.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8OG2A/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Thank you! Totally eluded me...

 

[Wildman]

Thank you! Totally eluded me...

I have a 3 circuit one but this reminded me that I needed to upgrade to the 7 circuit unit so I ordered one also.

 

[MikekiM]

I have a 3 circuit one but this reminded me that I needed to upgrade to the 7 circuit unit so I ordered one also.

More options itemized on their website
https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/p.php?s=fuse7

Seems like a no brainer given my anemic skills with wiring

 

[MikekiM]

I have a 3 circuit one but this reminded me that I needed to upgrade to the 7 circuit unit so I ordered one also.

Yup.. I ordered the kit you linked to. The solution @KingCarGuyZ offered was simple enough, but I'll be faced with the dilemma again at some point so since I need to rewire the seat warmers, will be putting in a towing kit and a few other add ons so easier to buy the kit. Kind of the same route I went with the Auxbeam switch panel. Could have done a full DIY setup but easier to buy the kit.