I wonder if that loop in the power steering line is causing problems? From what I remember, the line needs to be as straight and short as possible.
Edit: I guess I should read a little further before responding!
For what is worth I used a 45 on the pump feed and a 90 degree on the reservoir feed fitting. I’ve had no issues with the push lock slipping with the short feed line. That includes when I dropped the transmission about a month ago to do the clutch. I was shaking and pivoting the whole engine assembly trying to back the bell housing off. Still tight with no leaks. And seriously do take your time bleeding any air out of the system. I totally ruined the first pump I replaced on my Montero years ago because I didn’t bleed it properly.
I get more than “normal” drivetrain movement with my doubler tcase.
Seems like, with as many reservoir mounting questions I see posted, it may be worthwhile for PSC to design a piggy back reservoir, similar to factory.
I am thinking the master cylinder mount may be the way to go in my situation. A 4 cyl has a lot less distance to the pump from there than a 6cyl. If I move the resi in front of the pump I would need a 90* possibly a 120* fitting at the pump. I will measure the distance to see what the feed line length will be. Also have to check to see if I still have the bracket.
For what is worth I used a 45 on the pump feed and a 90 degree on the reservoir feed fitting. I’ve had no issues with the push lock slipping with the short feed line. That includes when I dropped the transmission about a month ago to do the clutch. I was shaking and pivoting the whole engine assembly trying to back the bell housing off. Still tight with no leaks. And seriously do take your time bleeding any air out of the system. I totally ruined the first pump I replaced on my Montero years ago because I didn’t bleed it properly.
I am thinking the master cylinder mount may be the way to go in my situation. A 4 cyl has a lot less distance to the pump from there than a 6cyl. If I move the resi in front of the pump I would need a 90* possibly a 120* fitting at the pump. I will measure the distance to see what the feed line length will be. Also have to check to see if I still have the bracket.
If you can keep the hose length in -12 under roughly 18" and mostly straight, that will be good enough we can say it isn't causing the problem.
It is and engine movement will break or ruin the hose and or fittings. You would ideally like the reservoir forward or rearward of the pump inlet so the hose runs fore and aft a bit so it can flex that way. Even if you have to rotate the reservoir some, that works better than the loop.
I've made the mistake of going straight at the pump or perpendicular to long axis of the motor before. This was on a pump with a pressed in fitting. The motor torquing over eventually pulled that fitting out the the pump. That's how I learned not to do that.
The push locks don't slip, you'll break the fitting or rip the hose first most likely.
If I switch places with my wiper reservoir and steer resi and add a 90* fitting at the pump I think all will be well. Will end up with a short straight run that will allow the hose to move with the engine. Resi will have to be lowered a tad but should still be plenty high.
Got the new pump installed. Moving the reservoir and replacing fittings.
I thought it was recommended to lock tight the adapter fittings into the cooler? Is that correct?
New aluminum pulley is cooler. Lol
View attachment 393825
We use red 271 or equivalent to lock the adapters into the cooler and the reservoir. Stops all the bullshit.