Proper wheels for 35s

Is there any benefit (e.g., stopping power, or strain on steering components) to larger wheels that will result in less spinning rubber-
 
LJDC said:
Is there any benefit (e.g., stopping power, or strain on steering components) to larger wheels that will result in less spinning rubber-
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More space to run a big brake kit to help stopping, better tire selection at time goes on, and some slight stability stayed by @jjvw. As far as I know that’s it.
 
The4bangertj said:
As mentioned before for non beadlocks method has some great choices with the nv305 that @midnightljr uses and has a big enough hub for lockout as well as 701 bead grip rims which don’t have a big enough hub but I do like the idea of a little extra something to hold the bead without beadlocks. Both will need some amount of spacer to get to the 4in of backspacing equivalent unless running lockouts.

Another option as far as beadlocks seem to go is the trail ready and race line rt232 monster bead locks (seen a lot more race lines than trail ready thus I looked into them more) that do offer a 4in back spacing wheel and a bigger hub than the methods (.82in bigger). So I think you could run 4.75in back spacing with a hub kit up front and run the 4in in the rear as an option for no spacers which I think is a cool thing. At 11 pounds heavier than method non bead locks but the whole bead lock or not discussion is another topic as most really don’t need it but they do offer benefits.
Curious to see if my thoughts with both methods and race line make sense and I’m not missing anything vital or misunderstanding it.
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If only companies ie: method made wheels for us TJ guys. A nice 17x8.5 5x4.5 with a couple offset versions in the beadgrip style
 
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LJDC said:
Is there any benefit (e.g., stopping power, or strain on steering components) to larger wheels that will result in less spinning rubber-
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Larger wheels (17"+) allow proper brakes to be run.

IMO, 33's and smaller, should run a 15" wheel. 35's you can run a 15", 17" if you want better braking. Anything larger than a 35" should be on a 17" wheel.
 
The4bangertj said:
More space to run a big brake kit to help stopping, better tire selection at time goes on, and some slight stability stayed by @jjvw. As far as I know that’s it.
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There are enough advantages and improvements over a 15" wheel that I don't see a reason to use a 15 anymore.
 
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PNW_LJ said:
Do you debead more with the 17s at 8 psi?
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So far, no. I have special beadlocks. On 15s, I only lost a bead in places like Moab. Basically where I would have the rear locked and I needed to do a hard turn. The push would roll the outside bead off the wheel. That is also what I have seen happen most often with others.
 
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The4bangertj said:
More space to run a big brake kit to help stopping, better tire selection at time goes on, and some slight stability stayed by @jjvw. As far as I know that’s it.
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The added stability of a bigger rim comes at the expense of the rubber conforming less to the terrain. Effectively, it's like the tires aren't aired down as low.

Kinda like how a load range E tire is stiffer than a C. At the same pressure the E will be more stable but have less traction. That's what happens with a bigger rim.

Also, larger wheels are (typically) heavier than the rubber they replace, so the tire+wheel combo is heavier with bigger wheels.
 
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srimes said:
The added stability of a bigger rim comes at the expense of the rubber conforming less to the terrain. Effectively, it's like the tires aren't aired down as low.

Kinda like how a load range E tire is stiffer than a C. At the same pressure the E will be more stable but have less traction. That's what happens with a bigger rim.

Also, larger wheels are (typically) heavier than the rubber they replace, so the tire+wheel combo is heavier with bigger wheels.
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I don't buy into that. So far, I haven't seen a perceivable difference in aired down traction on my 35s between a 15 and 17 wheel.
 
Instead of -4 backspacing, I’m finding a lot of wheels at 4.76 or something like that. Am I right to assume that the difference makes a difference?
 
LJDC said:
Instead of -4 backspacing, I’m finding a lot of wheels at 4.76 or something like that. Am I right to assume that the difference makes a difference?
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Backspacing is a different measurement than offset. -4 isn't a backspacing measurement.
 
View attachment 420277
LJDC said:
Is there any benefit (e.g., stopping power, or strain on steering components) to larger wheels that will result in less spinning rubber-
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Cool factor? (22" wheels) :rolleyes:

Jeep 22s on 35s (2).jpg
 
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jjvw said:
I don't buy into that. So far, I haven't seen a perceivable difference in aired down traction on my 35s between a 15 and 17 wheel.
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1" difference in side wall height is small enough to not be noticeable in most situations. Same difference between 33s and 35s.
 
LJDC said:
Similar question: Does Pro Comp make decent offroad wheels?

I’ve got my eye on these “vintage” 17” rims (and no, I’m not wild about the wheels on my first Jeep now being called vintage):

https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-69-series-vintage-17x9-wheel-with-5-on-4-5-bolt-pattern-polished-1069-7965/_/R-BKBQ-1069-7965
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I'm running a version of that wheel, 16x8, 5x5.5. I bent 2 on my last trip to Moab in the snow. I'm wondering if a higher end wheel would be less prone to vibration-inducing damage.

The plus side is they are cheaper to replace than higher end options.
 
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