Double Adjustable Control Arm Install Tips

So the first link with the lower control arms it says to take out the springs and ensuring that the bump stop is centered at full flex to get your LCA lengths correct.

Well, technically yes, you would want to adjust the arm length so that the axle is centered and also be sure that the track bar doesn't hit the diff cover. Are you replacing the springs as well? You still want to have the new arms installed and torqued before you go thru all that work of removing springs me thinks.
 
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Well, technically yes, you would want to adjust the arm length so that the axle is centered and also be sure that the track bar doesn't hit the diff cover. Are you replacing the springs as well? You still want to have the new arms installed and torqued before you go thru all that work of removing springs me thinks.

Same springs, I’ll give this a go
 
Yep, that's what I do.

And with the control arms, like that article says, don't pay any attention whatsoever to length. It's absolutely irrelevant. You're main focus is that the control arms aren't fighting against each other, and that the pinion angles are correct.

I always install one upper and use that one upper to set the pinion angle length. Once it's adjusted, dialed in, and tightened in place, I then install the upper on the opposite side. I lengthen it to the exact point that it moves about freely without any bind. It's easy to tell when this happens, because you'll be able to very easily lengthen it. The moment that you aren't able to easily lengthen it and it starts to get difficult, that's when you know it's binding up and you need to back-off.

Once upon a time I was dead-set on control arm lengths. It took messing around with it once or twice to realize that they didn't matter at all, and all those stupid charts you see online with control arm lengths for different height of lifts are absolutely pointless.
Understanding the actual length measurement doesnt matter however should the lowers and uppers be identical length respectively on both sides whatever they maybe?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Understanding the actual length measurement doesnt matter however should the lowers and uppers be identical length respectively on both sides whatever they maybe?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

When I set my lowers, the ended up being the same length, as the length used was the length that ended up putting the lower spring perches as close to center in relation to the upper jounce bumper. As for the uppers though, I never measured them after they were installed, but I'd be willing to bet that they are very likely different lengths, maybe even off by as much as 1/4" or 1/2".

I never paid attention to numbers, so unfortunately I don't know!
 
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A few rules of thumb just in case.
Rig needs to be reasonably level front to back, side to side.
Axle needs to be centered before you dial in the uppers.
Start with lowers set the same length. Lower mounts are more robust and rarely vary much.
Install a single upper to dial in angles. Only when that is done should the remaining upper be floated to length.
To tighten a DA arm- figure out which way you will be tightening. Rotate the barrels of the joints until the top is away from the tightening direction so it will bind against the side of the mount. Grab the arm with one hand so you can feel it turning or watch it. Snug one jam nut down until you just feel or see it start to turn the arm. Do the other end the same. Alternate back and forth until the jam nuts are tight enough that the arm quits trying to turn at which point you can heave on each jam nut to fully tighten it.

The control arm bolts need to be tightened before you do all of the jam nuts.

Bringing this back up. Can you explain this part to me like I'm 5 years old? I have double adjustable rear uppers I'm installing now along with a rear JKS track-bar and angled CV bracket since I just did an SYE and shafts.
 
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The joints on the ends of the CAs can lean left or right. To tighten a jam nut, lean the joints until they stop against the frame mounts. That will keep them from rotating while you're tightening the nuts. Work back and forth between one end and the other, snugging until they're tight enough to really pull the final tightening.
 
The joints on the ends of the CAs can lean left or right. ...

This is true of a spherical joint like a Heim or Johnny Joint. They can be rolled over to bind against the mount to assist in tightening. Bushings will only deflect and return to their neutral position.
 
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I got MC double adjustable arms (Yes, I know) and didn't know if it was ok to rotate the joint end to make contact in the direction of tightening. Blaine mentioned positioning it away the tightening direction so I was confused.
 
Bringing this back up. Can you explain this part to me like I'm 5 years old? I have double adjustable rear uppers I'm installing now along with a rear JKS track-bar and angled CV bracket since I just did an SYE and shafts.

What joints are in the arms?
 
They are hex shaped. I borrowed my father in laws giant old school crescent wrenches and torqued em down with 1 wrench on the arm and 1 on the nut. Hopefully it works
 
They are hex shaped. I borrowed my father in laws giant old school crescent wrenches and torqued em down with 1 wrench on the arm and 1 on the nut. Hopefully it works

That's how it works. Make sure the ends are in line with each other and not in a permanent twist at ride height. That is part of what ruins Metalcloak bushings.
 
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I'll double check but I'm pretty sure I lined them up. I still have a little bit of vibration but the bulk of it is gone. I think I got the pinion at like 14.7 and the driveshaft at 14.1 or somewhere around there. The Texas heat is messing with my brain. I wasn't sure if I had to completely match the angle. I saw a video where the guy recommended a little difference?
 
I'll double check but I'm pretty sure I lined them up. I still have a little bit of vibration but the bulk of it is gone. I think I got the pinion at like 14.7 and the driveshaft at 14.1 or somewhere around there. The Texas heat is messing with my brain. I wasn't sure if I had to completely match the angle. I saw a video where the guy recommended a little difference?

The correct pinion angle is the one that eliminates the vibes. The rear tends to be slightly low to account for axle wrap when under engine load, which your MC bushings allow for more of than other options. The front is closer to in line with the driveshaft and maybe a bit below.
 
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Man, I Went ahead and brought the pinion down a bit. I am now at 13.5/14.5 and it runs out so smooth until around 60mph then I start getting a driveline vibe. It's not terrible but it's there
 
Man, I Went ahead and brought the pinion down a bit. I am now at 13.5/14.5 and it runs out so smooth until around 60mph then I start getting a driveline vibe. It's not terrible but it's there

Keep messing with it
 
Man, I Went ahead and brought the pinion down a bit. I am now at 13.5/14.5 and it runs out so smooth until around 60mph then I start getting a driveline vibe. It's not terrible but it's there

You'll be happier if you throw the angle finder away and just make adjustments. You don't need to know the angles, you just need to know where the vibes go away.
 
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Ok I will pitch the angle finder (get it? badump bump!)

So, in general, should I be pointing the pinion more down or up? I was half tempted to slip some thick washers between the Barnes skid and frame to bring down the trans angle a little.
 
Ok I will pitch the angle finder (get it? badump bump!)

So, in general, should I be pointing the pinion more down or up? ...

Adjust it whichever way results in no vibes. That is the correct direction.