OME 2.5" lift bump stops?

ac_ said:
I believe the metal cloaks are close to the bucks and you don't have to drill and tap.
Also in the rear I added my spacers above the jounce cups so again I didn't need to drill and tap.
http://www.metalcloak.com/Adjustable-Bump-Stop-System-1-4-p/7040.htm
pretty reasonably priced and where I am going to go if I need to.

Those say universal but I believe if you look on there site they do have some made specifically for the TJ but with less pucks
Click to expand...

Yes, they require drilling and tapping. No way to install bump stops without doing it that way. Not that I can think of at least.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Yep. Matter of fact, that's what @JamesAndTheSahara did when he bumped his rig.
Click to expand...

I think that's the route I'll go as well. Buy a bunch of these pucks, drill a hole through the middle, drill and tap the spring perches, and then if I need to fine tune it, cut some of them in half.

It will be cheaper that way. The aluminum ones are cool, but not necessary by any means.
 
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Chris said:
I think that's the route I'll go as well. Buy a bunch of these pucks, drill a hole through the middle, drill and tap the spring perches, and then if I need to fine tune it, cut some of them in half.

It will be cheaper that way. The aluminum ones are cool, but not necessary by any means.
Click to expand...

I found some hockey pucks at a local hockey store for $1.69 each. Wally World out here doesn’t have them.


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Chris said:
I think that's the route I'll go as well. Buy a bunch of these pucks, drill a hole through the middle, drill and tap the spring perches, and then if I need to fine tune it, cut some of them in half.

It will be cheaper that way. The aluminum ones are cool, but not necessary by any means.
Click to expand...
Make sure to get a giant washer the size of the pucks to take the hit of the jounce cup. The pucks alone will crumble apart If they contact directly. I used 3 washers on top. The big one, one in the hole of the big one to keep it centered, and then one larger than the one in the center hole to keep them all tightened down. No need to tap the hole, use a nut on the bottom
 
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Jeepaholic said:
Make sure to get a giant washer the size of the pucks to take the hit of the jounce cup. The pucks alone will crumble apart If they contact directly. I used 3 washers on top. The big one, one in the hole of the big one to keep it centered, and then one larger than the one in the center hole to keep them all tightened down. No need to tap the hole, use a nut on the bottom
Click to expand...

You can't use a nut on the passenger side. No access, at least there was none on my TJ. The extra large body washer is a good idea.
 
Close up
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Jeepaholic said:
I have Dana 30, not 44, and I could get an open end wrench in there to hold the nut
Click to expand...

Tapping it is pretty easy tho and if you want to add more bumpstop later it’s a bit easier to add to it with a longer bolt. Either way works nicely!


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Jay P said:
Tapping it is pretty easy tho and if you want to add more bumpstop later it’s a bit easier to add to it with a longer bolt. Either way works nicely!


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Click to expand...
I didn't like the fact that the bolt would only be threaded into 3/16 thick of metal and if the head makes direct contact with the upper cup, the weight and force of the jeep might bend the bolt sideways, or shove that bolt right through, and the whole bump falls apart. With the nut, the pucks can compress that tiny bit for some cushion, and the bolt can slip down a tiny bit, nylon lock nut on bottom. That's my thoughts anyways...
 
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Jeepaholic said:
I didn't like the fact that the bolt would only be threaded into 3/16 thick of metal and if the head makes direct contact with the upper cup, the weight and force of the jeep might bend the bolt sideways, or shove that bolt right through, and the whole bump falls apart. With the nut, the pucks can compress that tiny bit for some cushion, and the bolt can slip down a tiny bit, nylon lock nut on bottom. That's my thoughts anyways...
Click to expand...

Makes sense for sure!


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Jeepaholic said:
I didn't like the fact that the bolt would only be threaded into 3/16 thick of metal and if the head makes direct contact with the upper cup, the weight and force of the jeep might bend the bolt sideways, or shove that bolt right through, and the whole bump falls apart. With the nut, the pucks can compress that tiny bit for some cushion, and the bolt can slip down a tiny bit, nylon lock nut on bottom. That's my thoughts anyways...
Click to expand...

I see your logic in this.
 
Jeepaholic said:
Make sure to get a giant washer the size of the pucks to take the hit of the jounce cup. The pucks alone will crumble apart If they contact directly. I used 3 washers on top. The big one, one in the hole of the big one to keep it centered, and then one larger than the one in the center hole to keep them all tightened down. No need to tap the hole, use a nut on the bottom
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had planned to get a giant fender washer to take care of that. Should do the trick nicely if I get nice thick one.
 
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Chris said:
My OME kit only came with rear bump stop extensions, nothing at all for the front.

For the life of me I can't remember how I had it setup on my previous TJ Rubicon, as that was years ago.

I'm trying to figure out why they didn't include any front bump stop extensions (they don't even offer them)?

Is there anyone out there with a Rubicon with a 2.5" OME lift who can tell me how much bump stop they needed (roughly) for the front and rear with this lift? @glwood, you might have this setup on your Rubicon, right?

I'm trying to determine if I need to order front bump stop extensions, or if they aren't required for this lift.

I've got stock steering and the stock track bar with 265/75r16 (31.7") tires.
Click to expand...



depends on the shock length. if you got the standard ome shocks the front operates on stock stops 13.5/22.5".
the rear @13.5/22.5 will use 1" extensions. If you also installed a track bar relocation bracket that raised the track bar 2-2.5", that requires a 2" rear bump stop extension because it will hit the tub and chop the fuel pump harness in half if it's hanging out enough, unless you also have a 1" body lift.

If you have the long travel shocks, front 15.5/26.5", 2" minimum bump stop extensions and the springs will unseat almost 3". the rear 14/24" will require 2" bump stop extension in stock mounts. if you have the pinon rotated and use a shock shifter/extension, the bump stop grows to 3".

32" tires generally need a 1" bump stop extension to keep the tire from remodeling the fender.
 
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