That's about how much my front axle shifted when I installed the lift, many moons ago. I ran it that way for about 2 years before getting a JKS TB, and the only reason I did that was my stock TB was shot.
OME 2.5" lift bump stops?
- Thread starter Chris
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That's about how much my front axle shifted when I installed the lift, many moons ago. I ran it that way for about 2 years before getting a JKS TB, and the only reason I did that was my stock TB was shot.
Man, when they say a picture is worth a thousand words... Thanks, @bobthetj03 for that!
After you take your measurements if it comes out to 2 inches you should check these out. These are sexy but they come with a steep price. But I like the clean simple look to them. Aluminum too
https://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-TJ-XJ-ZJ-Front-Bump-Stop-Spacer-Kit-p-16411.html
I like those too, clean and simple!
Weird that OME has you install their rear bumper stop spacers on the top, not on the bottom spring perch. I have a feeling that’s because they don’t want you to have to drill and tap a hole.
The rear coils are so wide, there's not much chance of the jounce bumpers coming close to the springs, I think...
Does anyone (other than me) have issues with lifting the car 2.5" then adding 2" of bump stop. I understand the reasons, but up travel is just as important as down travel. It's like you'd have a much better suspension system with a very small body lift (as much as I hate them) and smaller tires that allow full travel with little or no bump stop additions.
I have had that very same question in my head. You just had the guts to ask it...
Suspension lifting isn't just about adding tavel. You are also increasing ground clearance and making room for larger tires. That said, I lifted mine about 3" total in front and use a 2" bumpstop extension. But I increased overall travel about 2" by the use of a longer shock so in the end there was literally no downside to the extra bumpstop.
Valid point. Sometimes the obvious just eludes me...(sigh). That's why I spend so much time on this forum!
Realise all of that, however there is downside, as the down travel will only drop till you get mechanical binding. Which most kits should get you fairly close to. So you've lost up travel and as such stability as your COG will be higher with the large bump stops.
It's all a compromise though, so understand why the 1.25" body lifts and flat fenders are popular.
In my opinion, when you lift and modify you should always work to maintain, as a minimum, the factory suspension travels of 4" up and 4" down. Losing either is a downgrade over stock. Now that I have it, I value adding up travel more than down. But I want as much of both as I can get.
One reason I push cycling the suspension and correctly setting your bump stops is so that you can discover where the limits to your up and down are. Once you understand what those are and why, then you can potentially take steps to move past those initial limits to achieve more travel.
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One reason I push cycling the suspension and correctly setting your bump stops is so that you can discover where the limits to your up and down are. Once you understand what those are and why, then you can potentially take steps to move past those initial limits to achieve more travel.
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What exactly are you looking for when testing this? Going to be buying Rancho/OME combo and not sure what to buy for bumpstops
You are looking for parts that crash into each other. After that, you can select a shock that will divide it's total amount of travel on half from the normal ride height. Adding bump stop keeps shocks from over compressing and keeps other bits and pieces from damaging other bits and pieces.
The compressed shock is the limit to up travel. Extend the bump stops to closely match the compressed shock and make the soft jounce do it's job of slowing the last bit of suspension travel. The springs need to be removed and the axle fully cycled with a floor jack to find this.
Without looking back, this is slightly different than what I might have said 3 years ago in this thread. Many things have changed with the Jeep and my thinking since then.
It will vary from vehicle to vehicle. You’ll have to cycle the suspension as @jjvw pointed out if you want to do it right.
Collapsed shock length, tire size and fenders determine bumpstop amounts.
2-2.5" lifts typically have a 13.5/22.5" front shock length. 13.5" collapsed shocks operate on stock bumpstop extension which limits tire size to 31" under stock fenders, as well as metal cloak and any other flat fender that doesn't require the hood to be cut. there's no bolt on aftermarket adjustable track bar on the market that can be used without adding a minimum of 1.75" bumpstop extension, that track bar is rough country forged 0-3.5"
14.5" collapsed front shocks match 1", 15.5" collapsed front shock length matches a 2" bumpstop extension and clears a 33" tire under stock fenders. The stock flares will still rub tires.
15.5" collapsed rear shock length can require a 3.75" bumpstop extension, it's a different situation than the front as the compression ratio is not 1-1.
14" collapsed rear shocks match a 2" bumpstop extension in stock mounts, track bar relocation brackets require a 2" rear bumpstop, this includes the ome kit bracket that only comes with a 3/4" bumpstop, 2.5" rear lift springs have a 5.5" stack height which also requires a 2" bumpstop extension.
Ultimately, it's best to cycle the suspension for other clearance issues such as track bars, steering, exhaust, driveshaft and those with short arm links stretched out longer than 16", but there's no mystery to what shock length or tire size needs which bumpstop amounts, they are all the same. A body lift and highline fenders can compensate for bumpstops where tire size alone is a concern.
2-2.5" lifts typically have a 13.5/22.5" front shock length. 13.5" collapsed shocks operate on stock bumpstop extension which limits tire size to 31" under stock fenders, as well as metal cloak and any other flat fender that doesn't require the hood to be cut. there's no bolt on aftermarket adjustable track bar on the market that can be used without adding a minimum of 1.75" bumpstop extension, that track bar is rough country forged 0-3.5"
14.5" collapsed front shocks match 1", 15.5" collapsed front shock length matches a 2" bumpstop extension and clears a 33" tire under stock fenders. The stock flares will still rub tires.
15.5" collapsed rear shock length can require a 3.75" bumpstop extension, it's a different situation than the front as the compression ratio is not 1-1.
14" collapsed rear shocks match a 2" bumpstop extension in stock mounts, track bar relocation brackets require a 2" rear bumpstop, this includes the ome kit bracket that only comes with a 3/4" bumpstop, 2.5" rear lift springs have a 5.5" stack height which also requires a 2" bumpstop extension.
Ultimately, it's best to cycle the suspension for other clearance issues such as track bars, steering, exhaust, driveshaft and those with short arm links stretched out longer than 16", but there's no mystery to what shock length or tire size needs which bumpstop amounts, they are all the same. A body lift and highline fenders can compensate for bumpstops where tire size alone is a concern.