OME 2.5" lift bump stops?

Why not pull your springs and jounces and cycle the suspension to determine your bump stop extension? This takes all of the guess work out of setting up your suspension.

With 33's, OME shocks, ZJ tie rod and MC front track bar I needed 1.375" extension up front to keep the tires out of the steel fenders at full flex. In the rear (with the factory track bar w/ relocation bracket) I needed 1" extension to keep the shocks from over compressing.

Whatever bump stop extensions a kit provides will, at best, only be a conservative guess. Make your own and make them as only as thick as they need to be.

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View attachment 32287View attachment 32288

Are you also running a body lift?
 
Bottom line, when you're buying a "lift kit", you're not really getting a "kit". Maybe they need to re-label it "Starter lift kit" Here's enough to get you into trouble. Now you figure out the rest.
 
Are you also running a body lift?

1.25". I think that was the very first mods I made to the Jeep.

And now that you bring that up, the body lift will reduce the amount of required extension. Thanks for reminding me!

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Bottom line, when you're buying a "lift kit", you're not really getting a "kit". Maybe they need to re-label it "Starter lift kit" Here's enough to get you into trouble. Now you figure out the rest.

I’m just blown away that OME would give you 1” bump stops for the rear when @David Kishpaugh says it requires 2” in the rear, unless you want to cut your fuel lines in half, which would be a catastrophic failure on the trail.

Seems like some real stupidity on their part. Especially since the track bar relocation bracket is included as part of the lift.

I’m glad I asked this question, because knowing what I know now, I’ll be ordering extra bump stops for the rear!
 
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1.25". I think that was the very first mods I made to the Jeep.

And now that you bring that up, the body lift will reduce the amount of required extension. Thanks!

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You've gone a long way past that to date. How you liking the mid arm setup?
 
You've gone a long way past that to date. How you liking the mid arm setup?
It's really great. Climbing is very smooth. The 3/4 link is quick to respond. Longer Fox shocks and moving mounts is the next big project in order to do justice to the arms.

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I’m just blown away that OME would give you 1” bump stops for the rear when @David Kishpaugh says it requires 2” in the rear, unless you want to cut your fuel lines in half, which would be a catastrophic failure on the trail.

Seems like some real stupidity on their part. Especially since the track bar relocation bracket is included as part of the lift.

I’m glad I asked this question, because knowing what I know now, I’ll be ordering extra bump stops for the rear!

I think you'd clear if you had a 1.25 BL and 1" rear extensions, provided your shocks would allow that. BTW @Chris, it's not the fuel lines that the TB bracket hits, its the electrical wiring harness that feeds power to the fuel pump that can come into contact with the bracket and potentially pinch that harness, leaving you without power to the fuel pump. I have to get back in there and take a look to see if one can relocate the harness out of harms way.
 
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It's really great. Climbing is very smooth. The 3/4 link is quick to respond. Longer Fox shocks and moving mounts is the next big project in order to do justice to the arms.

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You've already outboarded the rear, so gonna extend the front tower to run longer shocks?
 
I think you'd clear if you had a 1.25 BL and 1" rear extensions, provided your shocks would allow that. BTW @Chris, it's not the fuel lines that the TB bracket hits, its the electrical wiring harness that feeds power to the fuel pump that can come into contact with the bracket and potentially pinch that harness, leaving you without power to the fuel pump. I have to get back in there and take a look to see if one can relocate the harness out of harms way.

No way I’m adding that much crack, haha. I’ll stick with the 1/2” body lift and hopefully 2” extra bump stop in the rear will take care of it.

Thanks for the clarification. I suppose fixing a wiring harness on the trail would be a lot easier than fixing fuel lines. I do carry wire crimps in my toolbox. Of course that doesn’t mean I want to do that trail repair though! Shame on OME I guess.
 
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No way I’m adding that much crack, haha. I’ll stick with the 1/2” body lift and hopefully 2” extra bump stop in the rear will take care of it.

Thanks for the clarification. I suppose fixing a wiring harness on the trail would be a lot easier than fixing fuel lines. I do carry wire crimps in my toolbox. Of course that doesn’t mean I want to do that trail repair though! Shame on OME I guess.

And every other company that supposedly sells a "lift kit". Thankfully, we have this forum to hash all this shit out.
 
I’m just blown away that OME would give you 1” bump stops for the rear when @David Kishpaugh says it requires 2” in the rear, unless you want to cut your fuel lines in half, which would be a catastrophic failure on the trail.

Seems like some real stupidity on their part. Especially since the track bar relocation bracket is included as part of the lift.

I’m glad I asked this question, because knowing what I know now, I’ll be ordering extra bump stops for the rear!

Ask us what the first point of interference is in the front and the rear. I would suspect that even without my body lift and most certainly with a smaller tire, my rear would still be 1" with that setup. The rear limit is the compressed shock. I never had any issues with the fuel line or any wiring harnesses. Maybe there is a difference between years.

The real answer is to cycle the suspension and make your own extensions. It is what it is. And perhaps you can see a way to move past that initial limit.

Zone body lift pucks are cheap and work well. 3" diameter up front and 2" in the rear. They are 3" long and are easily cut down.

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You've already outboarded the rear, so gonna extend the front tower to run longer shocks?
Still on factory shock mounts front and rear. I have two pairs of Poly Performance mounts waiting to be welded in. I need the shocks in hand before I can know where to stick the mounts. :)

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Ask us what the first point of interference is in the front and the rear. I would suspect that even without my body lift and most certainly with a smaller tire, my rear would still be 1" with that setup. The rear limit is the compressed shock. I never had any issues with the fuel line or any wiring harnesses. Maybe there is a difference between years.

The real answer is to cycle the suspension and make your own extensions. It is what it is. And perhaps you can see a way to move past that initial limit.

Zone body lift pucks are cheap and work well. 3" diameter up front and 2" in the rear. They are 3" long and are easily cut down.

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Yeah, I intend to cycle it. I was mostly just trying to gather insight on what I’m getting into. I’ll order a bunch of pucks just to be safe.
 
No way I’m adding that much crack, haha. I’ll stick with the 1/2” body lift and hopefully 2” extra bump stop in the rear will take care of it.

Thanks for the clarification. I suppose fixing a wiring harness on the trail would be a lot easier than fixing fuel lines. I do carry wire crimps in my toolbox. Of course that doesn’t mean I want to do that trail repair though! Shame on OME I guess.

A kit is built on generalities and what usually works with most rigs. Notice I didn't say will work with every rig. It is a start, you need to make sure it all works correctly. A swb TJ with everything crammed underneath, it is important to make sure and not just assume the "kit" will take care of everything.
 
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Ask us what the first point of interference is in the front and the rear. I would suspect that even without my body lift and most certainly with a smaller tire, my rear would still be 1" with that setup. The rear limit is the compressed shock. I never had any issues with the fuel line or any wiring harnesses. Maybe there is a difference between years.

The real answer is to cycle the suspension and make your own extensions. It is what it is. And perhaps you can see a way to move past that initial limit.

Zone body lift pucks are cheap and work well. 3" diameter up front and 2" in the rear. They are 3" long and are easily cut down.

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In my case, it is the rear TB relocation bracket hitting the tub at full bump, and that was with 1 5/8" rear bump stop extension. The CV TB bracket hits the wiring harness plug feeding power to the fuel pump and get pinched between the relocation bracket and the tub. A 0.5" BL should remedy this.
20180120_131159.jpg
 
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A kit is built on generalities and what usually works with most rigs. Notice I didn't say will work with every rig. It is a start, you need to make sure it all works correctly. A swb TJ with everything crammed underneath, it is important to make sure and not just assume the "kit" will take care of everything.

How did the spring swap go? How much added bump did you need?
 
In my case, it is the rear TB relocation bracket hitting the tub at full bump, and that was with 1 5/8" rear bump stop extension. The CV TB bracket hits the wiring harness plug feeding power to the fuel pump and get pinched between the relocation bracket and the tub. A 0.5" BL should remedy this.
View attachment 32297

Chop out the track bar... :)
 
How did the spring swap go? How much added bump did you need?
2" in front, 2" in rear although I could do 1.5" in rear. Felt the extra .5 wasn't worth the hassle of cutting the stops. Currently the front is at about 5.25" up and 4.25" down travel. I am guessing that once the springs settle a bit it should be nearly 50/50 with the 9.4" travel shock.
Haven't finished the rear yet, still waiting on the axle seal. O'Reilly said will be in the shop at 12:30. Good part was it didn't contaminate the brakes.

One thing I see is the front is pushed over about 3/4". Probably need an adjustable TB now. Will give it some time to settle before I decide.
 
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