Aluminum Armor Finish?

[JMT]

I got these corners used, so there were all kinds of marks. These are pics of what they look like raw after I worked orbital sander from 120 to 220 to 320 to 400 grit. If I was leaving them raw I’d stop at 320 grit.

 

[Plumber1]

Color matched

 

[PNW_LJ]

I hit mine a couple times a year with scotch Brite pads, then take a random orbital buffer with Meguiar's cleaner/polish. It makes a mess, but does a good job of protecting the aluminum. The downside is, to do it correctly, you have to remove the rear flares.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SQYRI?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I got these corners used, so there were all kinds of marks. These are pics of what they look like raw after I worked orbital sander from 120 to 220 to 320 to 400 grit. If I was leaving them raw I’d stop at 320 grit.

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I think this is what I'll do. Keep it raw and just sand/scotch brite/buff it once a year or so. Just need to get an orbital sander, might check out Harbor Freight.

I have 2 "major" scrapes (one from Little Sluice, other from Busywild), that bother me a tad bit. What grit would you use on a deeper scratch?

 

[PNW_LJ]

Color matched

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I envy those wheels!

 

[PNW_LJ]

Huh? I’m too chicken to wheel it, so, no need…

I suppose there's less stuff that can scratch you once you're on fodeez.

 

[JMT]

I think this is what I'll do. Keep it raw and just sand/scotch brite/buff it once a year or so. Just need to get an orbital sander, might check out Harbor Freight.

I have 2 "major" scrapes (one from Little Sluice, other from Busywild), that bother me a tad bit. What grit would you use on a deeper scratch?

80 grit. Aluminum is quite a bit softer than steel, so it shouldn’t take too long. Your goal is to not make it too obvious that you sanded a lot in one spot, so feather it into the surroundings.

If you already have gouges like that, you’re probably not interested in painting it. That would be a lot more work to fix.

I have a Bauer orbital sander from Harbor freight. It’s couldn’t have cost more than about 30 bucks. Discs are cheap through Amazon. I got 199 discs for $19.99 (80, 120, 220, 320, 400 assortment). Cheaper to buy in bulk than in small numbers.

 

[Irun]

I think this is what I'll do. Keep it raw and just sand/scotch brite/buff it once a year or so. Just need to get an orbital sander, might check out Harbor Freight.

I have 2 "major" scrapes (one from Little Sluice, other from Busywild), that bother me a tad bit. What grit would you use on a deeper scratch?

I have one of these that does miracles - https://www.harborfreight.com/75-amp-6-in-long-throw-random-orbit-da-polisher-56367.html

I wouldn't start with 80 grit. I'd start at 120 to 220, depending on the scrapes. If you don't make progress with those you can always go to 80. Once you get the scrapes to where you're happy, finish out with a 320 and 400.

 

[jjvw]

I'm imagining some of you guys in a few years with paper thin aluminum armor.

 

[JMT]

I'm imagining some of you guys in a few years with paper thin aluminum armor.

I was thinking the same thing. He might just want to leave a few battle scars if they’re very deep. it’s armor, that’s what it’s there for.

 

[PNW_LJ]

Thanks for the advice, I'll try this!

 

[PNW_LJ]

I'm imagining some of you guys in a few years with paper thin aluminum armor.

I call it weight savings.

 

[Apparition]

I'm imagining some of you guys in a few years with paper thin aluminum armor.

Genright will sell you more

 

[Irun]

Genright will sell you more

Or less!

 

[JMT]

Or less!

“Less for more” and you’ve got a winner.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

Color matched. Mine are old Rokmen's when they used to do aluminum. I put these on in 2011. It is a 20' Jeep though. LOL.

 

[AndyG]

He ain’t too chicken to wheel it, but I might be too chicken to ride along

 

[mudmaster]

I paint matched the rear armor (steel) and left the front fenders (aluminum) raw.