Do you think I need to relearn them or sync them using a DRB III scan tool? I’ve read that that sometimes solves it.
2003 TJ 4.0 cranks and sputters but will not start
- Thread starter Travis2024
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Do you think I need to relearn them or sync them using a DRB III scan tool? I’ve read that that sometimes solves it.
Since these cam and crank sensors are discontinued and aftermarket ones seem so finicky, can anyone think of a reason why I couldn't eliminate the cam sensor and coil pack and put a distributor in its place?
Standard Motor Products and occasionally Napa Echlin work just fine.
Allegedly @Wranglerfix has a tune, too, or perhaps it's in how they construct/rebuild their PCMs that make them less sensitive.
-Mac
Allegedly @Wranglerfix has a tune, too, or perhaps it's in how they construct/rebuild their PCMs that make them less sensitive.
-Mac
Just ordered a Mopar crankshaft sensor and a Standard Motor Products camshaft sensor with next day shipping. Will put these on when I get them and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
Closely watching your results. I have a 2000 2.5L doing the exact same things. One of my MANY projects, so each day do a small amount of effort. Ran daily 18 months ago, before PO parked it., after some initial work by me, Cranked perfect the other day, ran for a few minutes but at a high idle, then when I tried to put in gear started same as what you are experiencing. Slowly checking all the same you are doing.
I just went through a similar issue and bought NTK cam and crank sensors. Did the battery relearn thing and so far, so good. Mine left me stranded a few times after working fine for days. Engine sputtered, jerked, backfired, smoke coming from engine and rattling. No start after that. I initially bought a cheap Chinese camshaft sensor and was good for about 4 hours of driving. Replaced both sensors since then.
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Checked that the Relays are good and firing for the ASD and fuel. The relays are good, but the fuel relay is not pulling in full time. The fuel Pump does run if I bypass, but still wont crank even if its running. Need to dig out my fuel pressure gauges and make sure its actually building pressure. WIll also try the starting fluid trick...Yes plenty of fuel in the tank.
It has an entire new Distributor in it (which includes the cam sensor), put in it just before PO parked it, so playing on that is good. Following your posts as well as some others I have read, it appears that if either the Cam or Crank sensor is bad, then this might happen. At the moment Thinking Crank sensor but yet to get one.
I fully cleaned and tested all of the throttle body parts, IAC,TPS,MAP, so feel good about those and never seen one of those cause a symptom like this.. Due to its age I have pulled, cleaned, Dielectric greased ALL plugs under the hood. DIdnt find anything obvious. Want to do the same for all the grounds I can find. No CEL or codes showing.
100+ feel here in my part of country and its out in front of my shop in the full sun, so toy with it some more late this evening.
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I would try new crank and/or cam sensors but make sure you get good ones. I was able to find a Mopar crank sensor on Rock Auto, and I hear Standard Motor Products camshaft sensor is the only one that is reliable and that is also on Rock Auto. I put those in my jeep and had to turn the OPDA a little and it is running good now.
Update on my Jeep:
Put new crank and cam sensors in it, and still was just sputtering. Tried turning the OPDA a little and it would actually fire and die. Hooked a scanner to it and the ASD relay was turning off so I forced it on, and it fired up and was able to set the 0 degree on the OPDA. After this it is running great.
Put new crank and cam sensors in it, and still was just sputtering. Tried turning the OPDA a little and it would actually fire and die. Hooked a scanner to it and the ASD relay was turning off so I forced it on, and it fired up and was able to set the 0 degree on the OPDA. After this it is running great.
About to head out of town for a week. But ordered a SMP Crank sensor, that comes with a 3/36 warranty where the OE is only 24. Ive been working on vehicles for over 45 years. Standard has always been a top quality brand for electronics and still is. Most OE are manufactured by Standard...I tried to check the fuel pressure, but my 100 piece snapon fuel pressure tester did not have even 1 fitting that was close, pushing the schrader while the pump was running created steady flow, but I would sort have expected more like around a spray at 50 PSI....that might also be contributing, who knows....But when I get back the Crank sensor should be at the house and will give that a try first. With the brand new full distributor in it, at the moment not trying a Cam sensor....that and Tach shows movement while its cranking.
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