Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Daubies at home HEMI conversion

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I feel pretty confident my head gaskets are on correctly. They’re labeled R and L as well as TOP. I ordered the combustion leak tester. Hopefully I don’t have a cracked head or block.
 
You might also drain and refill it again to see if maybe it does have some trapped air.. That alone can give you lots of problems.
Did you use one of those fill kits that's supposed to help purge all the air when you filled it this time.?

I've never heard that the HEMI needs to be "burped", but I’ve only drained mine once, and I did have an obvious pocket that blew through with the first heat cycle. That would have been good info to have, can you tell me more? I have a Honda that has to be "burped" when filling the cooling system. This is done by lifting the front driver side (water pump side) as high as you can get it and letting the car run until it cycles a few times. Can the HEMI be burped similarly, maybe by lifting the front?
 
View attachment 554269I feel pretty confident my head gaskets are on correctly. They’re labeled R and L as well as TOP. I ordered the combustion leak tester. Hopefully I don’t have a cracked head or block.

Yep, you have them on correctly. Take it out for a 5-10 minute drive before you try testing your cooling system. You can start with the overflow bottle first if you want & then move to your radiator or just test at the radiator.
 
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Ok it’ll probably be next week since the tester will arrive Friday and I’m going out of town for the Holiday weekend. I also ordered a severe duty fan clutch to use instead of the 4.0 clutch. I used one of the burping funnels when filling my radiator each time (I’ve drained and refilled at least 3 times for other unrelated issues lol) each time very little air would “burp” when I started the Jeep.
 
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I've never heard that the HEMI needs to be "burped", but I’ve only drained mine once, and I did have an obvious pocket that blew through with the first heat cycle. That would have been good info to have, can you tell me more? I have a Honda that has to be "burped" when filling the cooling system. This is done by lifting the front driver side (water pump side) as high as you can get it and letting the car run until it cycles a few times. Can the HEMI be burped similarly, maybe by lifting the front?

Well DAMN I've got to go out and see if I've got this plug on my water pump.

Are you planning on doing a Drain and Fill of the engine coolant on your Hemi? If so, you need to know that refilling an empty coolant system on the Hemi is prone to allowing air to become trapped in the system. If that happens, it will prevent proper coolant circulation. And if that happens the engine will overheat while driving, and we all know what an overheated engine will lead to in pretty short order. You can take my word for how easily trapped air can lead to a boil-over in the coolant system - I have experienced that very thing several times in the last month or so.

So if the task is making sure trapped air is removed (or not allowed to become trapped in the first place) before operating the engine, the question becomes, "what is the best way to prevent this scenario?"
The answer: follow the advice below when refilling an empty coolant system on a Hemi (may work with the 3.6L as well, but i have never tried it on one of those engines).

Once everything is buttoned up and you are ready to begin pouring the coolant into the coolant reservoir,
1. Remove the 8mm hex head plug on the front of the water pump.
2. Begin pouring coolant in the reservoir until it is full or you see coolant spilling out that plug hole.
NOTE: if you see coolant spilling out of that hole, you're already done. Screw the plug back in and go on about your rat-killing.
3. Put a finger from your left hand over that plug's hole, put a finger from your right hand on the end of the reservoir's overflow hose to block it completely, and put your mouth over the reservoir opening through which you've been pouring coolant.
4. Blow. Hard. And while blowing, lightly feather your finger's coverage of the water pump's hole, feeling for any signs of coolant spilling out of the hole.
5. Once you get light-headed, stop blowing and resume pouring coolant into the reservoir until it is full again.
6. Repeat steps 2 thru 5 until you get coolant spilling out of the hole...or pass out.

Once you get coolant spilling out of that hole, you're done. Screw the plug back into the water pump, fill the reservoir to the fill line, and start the engine to get it up to temp and check for leaks.

BLAMMO! That's the quickest way to burp air from the Hemi, I can assure you of that. I have honed that procedure over the last month or so during the 8 (yes, EIGHT) times I have had to refill the cooling system on my car after it became empty, either intentionally from me opening the little drain valve or as the result of a boil-over (or blown radiator hose).

https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/burping-air-during-engine-coolant-d-f.665745/
 
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Ok it’ll probably be next week since the tester will arrive Friday and I’m going out of town for the Holiday weekend. I also ordered a severe duty fan clutch to use instead of the 4.0 clutch. I used one of the burping funnels when filling my radiator each time (I’ve drained and refilled at least 3 times for other unrelated issues lol) each time very little air would “burp” when I started the Jeep.

Some where I saw mention of using a 8 blade fan also instead of the stock TJ fan.
 
My “truck” style water pump is different from that one in the video. Pretty sure it doesn’t have that hole. The thermostat housing is on the drivers side also. Any idea where or how to get the 8 blade fan?
 
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I've never heard that the HEMI needs to be "burped", but I’ve only drained mine once, and I did have an obvious pocket that blew through with the first heat cycle. That would have been good info to have, can you tell me more? I have a Honda that has to be "burped" when filling the cooling system. This is done by lifting the front driver side (water pump side) as high as you can get it and letting the car run until it cycles a few times. Can the HEMI be burped similarly, maybe by lifting the front?

As many times as I have drained and filled mine, I've never once had to burp the system, or had any issues with trapped air.
 
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My “truck” style water pump is different from that one in the video. Pretty sure it doesn’t have that hole. The thermostat housing is on the drivers side also. Any idea where or how to get the 8 blade fan?

I think the 8 blade fan is a poly fan from certain years of Ford Explorers. There should be some write ups about it on this forum.
 
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My “truck” style water pump is different from that one in the video. Pretty sure it doesn’t have that hole. The thermostat housing is on the drivers side also. Any idea where or how to get the 8 blade fan?

Mine doesn't have the bleeder hole either on the water pump.
I cheat and have the vacuum fill kit now. It's really nice for filling your cooling system plus by putting it under vacuum you're testing the system. If you have a leak it'll show up by not allowing the system to hold vacuum.
 
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Mine doesn't have the bleeder hole either on the water pump.
I cheat and have the vacuum fill kit now. It's really nice for filling your cooling system plus by putting it under vacuum you're testing the system. If you have a leak it'll show up by not allowing the system to hold vacuum.

Cars have the plug due to the location of the thermostat. The plug is your high point vent. The truck thermostat housing and radiator hose are mounted higher than the cars and is the high point vent.
 
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I guess I need to try to figure out how to start a thread of my own, but in the meantime: I took off my electric fan and installed the clutch and fan from the 4.0 onto the hemi along with the fan shroud from the 4.0 which I had to modify a little due to the radiator outlet and inlet being on opposite sides. I started it and everything seemed good so I went for a drive. Within about a mile at 35-40 mph my coolant temp was 213. I pulled onto the highway and accelerated to 55-60 and within 5 miles it was 236! So the clutch driven fan did not improve my cooling. I don't know what to do next??? Maybe the ford 11 blade fan and severe duty clutch? I'm wondering I my winch is blocking too much air to cool the hemi. Never had an issue with the 4.0 but this is a different beast in there now.
 
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I guess I need to try to figure out how to start a thread of my own, but in the meantime: I took off my electric fan and installed the clutch and fan from the 4.0 onto the hemi along with the fan shroud from the 4.0 which I had to modify a little due to the radiator outlet and inlet being on opposite sides. I started it and everything seemed good so I went for a drive. Within about a mile at 35-40 mph my coolant temp was 213. I pulled onto the highway and accelerated to 55-60 and within 5 miles it was 236! So the clutch driven fan did not improve my cooling. I don't know what to do next??? Maybe the ford 11 blade fan and severe duty clutch? I'm wondering I my winch is blocking too much air to cool the hemi. Never had an issue with the 4.0 but this is a different beast in there now.

Did you use a premixed 50/50 coolant or mix you own. Antifreeze is not a coolant. You have to have water to transfer heat.
 
I mixed my coolant 50/50. I may add about 25% more water when I refill it again.

One thing at a time, and apply the KISS method. I still encourage you to simply try turning on the heat before doing anything else.

Also, when you start your own thread, tag us in it if you still want our responses.
 
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Since installing the mechanical fan didn't really help we then have to start looking for other things that can be the cause of your problem. So as BlueC suggested turning your heater on "HIGH" with the heat maxed out will give you maximum effect. The point of this is to see if that added little bit of cooling capacity is sufficient to cool your engine.
I highly doubt that your issues are related to your winch blocking airflow. I've been running a Warn 8274 upright winch on Jeeps now for years and never had overheating issues as long as everything else was OK. That was with stock 4.0 or 4.2 I-6's or swapped in V-8's. And I'm talking about both YJ's & TJ's also.

So there is something else causing issues.

On the starting your own thread. I'd also suggest that you start a thread here in the General Discussion area: https://wranglertjforum.com/forums/tj-general-discussion.6/
With a title of something like "Overheating Issues @ Cruising Speeds" Then describe the issues you're having. You'll get a lot more responses in the General Discussion area. But also start a build thread here and tell us all about your TJ and what you've done to it.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator