More parking brakes!
- Thread starter macleanflood
- Start date
I looked yesterday and didn’t come across it but Colt when he was on BleepinJeep used a line lock for parking brakes on the OnX S10 build. It was a budget build so I’m guessing it was cost effective.
The SXS world has a plethora of mechanical brake locks for some reason.
https://springbrakethingy.com/collections/frontpage
And true to form, the dirt cheap knock-offs didn't take long to hop on that bandwagon.
https://www.amazon.com/Parking-Brake-Compatible-RZR-accessories/dp/B0B31VNJ6R/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I'm watching this video because I also have a 2nd gen Outback and want to see the recovery points that he is using.
Nothing but soft shackles through the wheels.
Probably the most substantial piece on most cars.
-Mac
Their response to 1 of 3 unanimously seriously negative reviews:
“We have sold close to 600 of these linelocks over the last 5 years and have never heard of any unlocking issues from customers.”
Seems like the kind of product for which you wouldn’t hear back from the customer after a catastrophic failure
Besides, it’s a local operation push button, so you would have to detour your brake lines into the cab in order for the button to be in a usable location. I think Blaine is on the right track with the manual cable-operated line lock.
Yeah you can get solenoid valves on Amazon and E-Bay for cheap but like @mrblaine said they're not rated for continuous use.
However they are normally open valves...but if they stick closed on a trail somewhere...grr...
If I'm gambling on a cheap solution I'd rather roll the dice on a manual valve.
-Mac
I thought the one Colt used was a ball valve but I’m unable to find the video where he talked about it.
I've been thinking about cutting brakes. I was trying to figure out a clean custom set up using the parking brakes but line locks may be the ticket.
2 or 3 or maybe several things will cause large amounts of suck there.
If you get the parking brakes functioning correctly, they will snap off the anchor lug on the cast backing plate if you drive off in 4 low.
Not being able to modulate the brakes when trying to do a turn is at best a poor compromise.
Our first set of homebrew cutting brakes using 2 parking brake handles in the stock location worked but only because we had drum brakes and even then we tore up parts at a prodigious rate inside the drums.
Line locks are on or off. Not a lot of modulation. The last part that brings the suck is the rear calipers aren't big enough to lock a tire in a turn.
That makes me think line lock is still a better solution? Lack of full lock seems the better than breaking parts.
4x4 makes the parking break affect 4 wheels, but doesn't make them any less weak. I do the same and don't trust it. If on a hill I'll put it in 4low too for extra engine holding.
Park is one of the benefits of automatic transmissions. I don't trust parking breaks but putting the transmission in park and 4low is quite secure.
Another old-school method of getting a powerful parking break is mounting a rotor on the tcase output or axle pinion. Holding power is multiplied by the axle ratio.
Honestly, I'd start with chocks and find some way to hang them out of the way on the bumper or tire carrier. That's what I do with tire chains after I use them so they don't dirty up the inside.
A drift handle would probably be the best way to do cutting brakes. You'd need rear discs, one set of calipers for normal functions... stopping, parking. And then a second set of calipers hooked to the drift handle (and two them left and right)...which is essentially a lever hooked to a master cylinder. To get all that to fit you'd probably need at least 17" rims. Lot of time and money.
I suppose someone out there has got to make a continuous duty, variable position (not binary, open or closed) solenoid valve.
Am I right that necking down 3/16" brakes to go through an 1/8" valve would suck? Fluid restriction that would mess with regular braking action?
-Mac
I suppose someone out there has got to make a continuous duty, variable position (not binary, open or closed) solenoid valve.
Am I right that necking down 3/16" brakes to go through an 1/8" valve would suck? Fluid restriction that would mess with regular braking action?
-Mac
The restriction should be fine. There is minimal flow through the lines anyway and it isn't like the ports out of the master are monstrous anyway. The better question is how you plan to do the connection.
I'd assume I'd run 3/16" hard line off the front brake fitting on the shuttle/proportioning valve (rear position, right?) to a flare bulkhead fitting on the firewall, from there I'd mount the valve on the driver's kick panel with nutserts into the sheet metal... there's a flat spot below the bottom hinge pin. Lower than I like but easy enough to reach. 3/16" flare to 1/8" NPT adapters in and out of the valve, back to a bulkhead fitting on the firewall...from there to a proper flare coupler to intersect the original front brake line...which also gives me a "quick" out on the trail... disconnect the coupler and reconnect the original line to the proportioning valve.
Also a possibility of using AN fittings and appropriate flexible hose inside the cab.
Thoughts?
-Mac
One of those simple temporary fixes that can end up being long term if it works well
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