Midarm and rear outboard question
- Thread starter Superjay5
- Start date
Well I figured I would report back.
I have tire clearance! I had to move the shock mount inboard of the lower control arm mount.
I kept trying to make it work between the outer double rings on the axle and the inside of the lower control arm mount, as most of the pictures I have saved show them placed.
I first tried moving it in so it was on the same plane as the outside of the lower control arm mount. Was close, but it wasn’t till I jumped the mount to the inside of the control arm mount that I got clearance I was happy with.
So I have a solid 3/16” of tire clearance between tire and shock body at full articulation, then I I have about 3/8” between shock and poly tower.
Since I cut the one leg off the lower control mount at my attempt to have it on the same plane, once I moved it over to its final resting place I added a little dog leg to the mount to tie it all back together.
So as I often hear mrblaine say, put it where it fits!
I have tire clearance! I had to move the shock mount inboard of the lower control arm mount.
I kept trying to make it work between the outer double rings on the axle and the inside of the lower control arm mount, as most of the pictures I have saved show them placed.
I first tried moving it in so it was on the same plane as the outside of the lower control arm mount. Was close, but it wasn’t till I jumped the mount to the inside of the control arm mount that I got clearance I was happy with.
So I have a solid 3/16” of tire clearance between tire and shock body at full articulation, then I I have about 3/8” between shock and poly tower.
Since I cut the one leg off the lower control mount at my attempt to have it on the same plane, once I moved it over to its final resting place I added a little dog leg to the mount to tie it all back together.
So as I often hear mrblaine say, put it where it fits!
You're running a little bit cold on your welds. Turn the voltage up slightly or the wire speed down just a smidge. Weld up that cut from the cut off wheel in the tube.
And you can tell that because the top of the bead is a bit pointy and the edges haven't "washed" into the parent material and left a hard'ish line? Just trying to learn what I can from looking at a bead and hearing it described as a bit cold...
Pretty much. The one on the side of the shock mount looks like it is just laying on the surface.
Not trying to hijack op. Mrblain. I'm putting the savvy mid arm kit on my LJ soon
Looking at possibly out boarding the shocks. Have you done a write up that shows the process in one place? I've been looking at all the threads and post I can find that you have made in the subject. I just ordered your brake relocate kit.
This one is pretty informative:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/outboard-rear-shocks-project.15545/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/outboard-rear-shocks-project.15545/
Do you have fabrication experience? Outboarding shocks need a lot of precision work and solid understanding of the very many concepts that need to go together to reap the full benefits out of a project like this. Below video by @hosejockey61 is a good watch just to understand the level of complexity involved. It is not intended to be a step by step guide.
And the link to the outboard thread is full of great info. Thank God @mrblaine came back into the picture.
No, I don't do that.
The most you will likely come across is a general how-to with an eye towards the general requirements to pay attention to.
Thank you. I've been reading everything I can find you post on the subject. I appreciate the time you take to share with everyone.
I learned some things that day, and damn am I glad Mike hoards parts! The auto parts stores had no clue what I was trying to find. The next phase will all standardize so I can carry 1-2 spares that should cover most issues on either axle.
when you get into the project post up any questions you have and there will be experienced members more than willing to help you get it sorted out
Thanks. Already got a question. While I understand the shock must be 90 degrees to the lower control arm at ride height. The shock tuner I'm ordering from says he needs to know what angle the shock will be mounted.
I know from reading other post that I must take time to cycle the system to determine best shock location...what angle should I tell the tuner as I won't be able to measure the until I get the Savvy 4 link on?
That is a bit bizarre. The shock angle "should" be roughly 90 to the lower but a few degrees either side of that won't change anything. Just tell them it will be 90 and go have fun. The reality is that you won't be able to get it much less than 90 without getting into the spring perch and not much more than 90 unless you want to hack up the blind on the left side and the emissions crap on the right side.
Thanks . I'm working with Acutune. Looking at 12" travel Fox 2.0 with reservoir and adjustor.
The question stems from needing to know the shock's travel ratio relative to the axle travel. The closer the shock's angle is tangential to the axle's travel arc, the closer it will be to a 1:1 travel ratio. Laying the shock over on it's side or further forward or rearward from the axle will eventually change that ratio to the point that it affects the valving.
As Blaine mentioned, the question is bizarre because it is difficult to build the shock mounts in any way that makes sense on a TJ that wouldn't automatically result in something very close to a 1:1 ratio. Certainly close enough to 1:1 to not have a meaningful effect on the valving.
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