06 LJ Sort Out

annihil8ted

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jun 13, 2023
Messages
243
Location
Richardson, Texas
Hello Again!

I finally got the opportunity to get a LJ :D It's an 06 Manual and will probably be the last one I get for a very long time since my ultimate goal was always the LJ.

That being said, there's definitely some maintenance item that needs to be taken care of and I'm looking to the community for guidance on what to do


First I'd like to sort out my suspension. Bushing are all dead and gone along with shocks and possibly springs. It bounces and clunks as I drive.

I'm looking to do a lift between 2-3 inches but am currently wondering what the last owner did. Here are my measurements so far. I could be wrong but it looks like it has already a 1-2 inch lift? Not sure if I'm measuring from the right space so pointers are definitely welcome but it looks like the front (assuming 12) is 2 inch lifted with a 3 inch spacer on stock springs and the rear (assuming stock 8) is 2 inches lifted with a 3 inch spacer.

IMG_6876.webp
IMG_6875.webp
 
Those are 3" coils spacers front and rear. Those old springs are sagging so the net lift is less that 3" over stock.

Remove all those components and get yourself some 3" coils, shocks, and adjustable track bars.
 
I also noticed that based on the bump stop impact, neither side is centered in the middle of the bottom spring cup. I take it that is due the lift and non-adjustable track bars?

Correct. The other option is to drill a new hole in the front axle track bar bracket to move the mounting point slightly inwards as a cheap alternative to an adjustable track bar. Track bars are not expensive so I'd just do it correctly
 
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Gotcha! I think the bummer is the PO already drilled another hole but hopefully it doesn't compromise integrity too much

At 3 inch, I think I read online I would need both front and rear rear to make sure they're in line?
 
You should also consider what size tires you want to run and how you are going to use the Jeep . It should have 3.73 gears unless it's a Rubicon, then likely 4.10 . The 3.73 would be ok for up to 32 inch tires , after that you will need lower gears .
Something to think about .
 
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It's currently sitting on very worn 285/70/17 and I've been strongly leaning to go towards 255/75/17 or 265/75/17. I like the idea of smaller thinner tires so I'll be going from 33 down to 32. Doesn't feel sluggish but I'm also not weighted down yet with camping/overlanding gear


Man I wish I had the hardtop; it's been super hard to find and the one I do find are an arm and a leg at 2-4K. Sweet looking ride!
 
While I'm sorting out the coils, shocks, and adjustable track bar issue there's a couple of other things I would like to tackle.

Do I need adjustable arms at 3" lift or are the stock ones okay at 3? I don't think I'll plan to go bigger than 3", this build is more of a trail and overland rather than a crawler

I have this weird thing where the turn signals will click after the turn signal light turns off. If I signal and then turn off the signal, I'll still hear the clicks after the light goes away in a steady slow down, maybe 3 times before it stops

The "light" indicator randomly turns on whenever I touch the light stalk. Pushing in the stalk turns it off to it's proper behavior

I'm getting a P0344 code and only a P0344 with a CEL. When it goes into limp mode, I can start the car again and it'll return to normal but with CEL. Then randomly it'll throw the P0344. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I was planning on changing the OPDA which from what I read may be part of the issue

The LED headlights I installed flicker randomly and it seems the electrical system of the LJ is on the weaker side. The gauge never ticks over 14V which I would have thought it may. What should I check here? It feels like maybe the battery or the alternator may be going?

I am getting a constant airbag light but no codes. Not sure how to resolve this one. I don't seem to have an airbag off switch seen in other TJ/LJs
 
I can help with a couple of your questions. Adjust control arms are not required at 3" of lift. Is the rig equipped with LED taillights? My rig makes the same clicking sound after moving the turn signal stalk back to the center position. I always figured it was the aftermarket relay in the steering column.
 
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I believe my LED turn signal clicks once or twice after the light goes off .
With 3 inches of lift your castor and camber might be an issue with stock control arms on the front. I've run 3 inches and 2 inches lift and it drives better with 2 inches of lift with the stock control arms , could be my imagination but it seems happier at 2 inches with the stock arms .

Your lights issue could be the multi function switch . Also check your grounds . An aftermarket headlight relay kit might also be a good idea .

Check your running voltage with a volt meter at the battery to see what the voltage actually is . Wouldn't hurt to get your battery checked with a load tester , a bad battery can make the alternator seem bad .
 
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I had the original halogen headlights and even then, It was still clicking. That being said, the turn signal lights are all led. Tail lights are still stock so no led.

Yeah I was trying to figure out where the relay is; if it was in the stalk or somewhere else. My other TJs don't make the clicking noise after returning to center so this one is new to me. Sounds like it could be inside the stalk itself?

If I were to do adjustable control arms, what is the second best option? I was originally looking at core 4x4 camp series to benefit from a johnny joint but then reading the forum, it seems like there may be better choices at the same price point? Would you also upgrade all 4 arms at once or can you do just the upper or lower?

Horn is working and rotation end to end seems smooth. Is there another way to check the clock spring?
 
Just finished a transmission fluid change:
1. Surprised at how much easier it is compared to my 98 Sahara
2. Transmission still notchy but the whine is gone or majorly diminished
3. The amount of metal attached to the magnetic plug is surprising; quite possibly fluid hasn't been changed in a while or maybe original?
 
More questions :)

Currently I'm planning to run 32" but the option of 35" is appealing too and I would like to be setup in a way where I could achieve both.

I know typically 4" lift for 35s (along with other mods like maybe axles and control arms) but the last owner installed some metalcloak arched tube fenders.

https://metalcloak.com/arched-tube-fender-pair-tj-lj-aluminum.html

Based on their diagram, it looks like it may be possible to stick 35s with a 3" lift? I'm asking because I'd like to keep cost low and not have to go with ACA, SYE, or transfer case drop.

As it is right now, I'm riding on 33s with no problems or vibrations on stock albeit worn out control arms and a sagged to 2" lift. I do have access to a 4" lift setup (lower control arms, TC drop, 4 inch springs) but not sure if the effort is worth it because it's currently installed on a TJ
 
Does anyone know what size bolt that connects the fender to the grill? Not the one on the sides but the one facing the engine bay on the inside? Looks like the last PO never installed them
 
Lifted the rear to 3 inches last night and definitely think up to 35s will work in the future. It's sitting on 33s in the photo. Plan to lift the front later today

IMG_6938.jpeg
 
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Well, assuming you can get the rig out of the impound yard...

This one went over my head 😅


I also got around to replacing the rear upper control arms. The old ones were completely shot and rattled. With the new ones in place, the rear already feels much more stable. Plan to do rear lowers and depending on when my front set gets here, also plan on doing the front arms. I'd like to replace the front upper bushings too but I know it's a bear to do so

Crawling underneath last night, I noticed my rear track arm mount/box on the driver side seems to move a lot, It shouldn't right?