Transfer Case Linkage Problems

[cruzcode]

Recently, I purchased my first TJ to build. After working with my friend (who does fabrication), we built up this into a nice little stretched rig with a Rock Krawler 5.5” Long-Arm Lift, with 6.5 inches of rear stretch.

The problems that I’m having, is that I may have mucked up the Factory Transfer Case Linkage while dropping the 5-speed & T-Case, or didn’t situate it properly when resetting back into position with the new drop belly pan, etc.

Here is what I’ve noticed:
#1) The Linkage appears to be jammed upward near the T-Case, compared to where it hinges on the body tub.
#2) I feel like the rotating lever that pivots on the body tub and connects to the T-Case should be horizontal, and mine is not.
#3) The Linkage is jamming/rubbing up against the actual T-Case, not allowing it into 2WD

I had purchased a TeraFlex HD Linkage Kit just to have it, but realized that it was going to be a PITA to install after everything was back in. So, I did NOT install that, as it was at one friend’s garage, and it needed to get out of there quickly.

I’ve read some threads on here about some aftermarket shifters, etc. While that may be an answer, I’m wondering if any of the veterans on here can look at these photos and identify what needs to be done.

Thank you guys in advance!

RC

Here is a picture of my rig (before and after), and then the transfer case photos:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[TJDaveX]

The factory linkage is junk. Get rid of it, and the tub/transfer case marriage that comes with it. Everything has to line up perfectly for it to work right. IE: stock Jeep.
You have done too much work to put up with that. Get a cable shifter and be done with it.

 

[cruzcode]

The factory linkage is junk. Get rid of it, and the tub/transfer case marriage that comes with it. Everything has to line up perfectly for it to work right. IE: stock Jeep.
You have done too much work to put up with that. Get a cable shifter and be done with it.

Gotcha. That was what I was hoping not to hear. (Only because the Build has drained me physically and financially, even if it is the right solution).

Okay, there seems to be some feedback on Novak and Savvy shifters. Has there been a clear consensus one which to go with and why?

Also, any shifter install threads?

Thanks for the feedback, bro.

RC


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[mrblaine]

Gotcha. That was what I was hoping not to hear. (Only because the Build has drained me physically and financially, even if it is the right solution).

Okay, there seems to be some feedback on Novak and Savvy shifters. Has there been a clear consensus one which to go with and why?

Also, any shifter install threads?

Thanks for the feedback, bro.

RC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Get rid of the drop bracket on the tub side and it will work much better.

 

[CodaMan]

I have run Savvy cable shifters for a few years now. TC shifts like butter all the time. I even added a BL and didn't have to make any adjustments.

 

[cruzcode]

Best place to buy the Savvy quickly? I’m in NorCal.

RC


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[Mike_H]

Did you have a body lift on, before you did the rock crawler lift? It looks like there is an additional bracket bolted to the body side that shouldn't be there. Typically, those are installed with a body lift. If you removed the body lift, you need to remove the drop bracket too. I'd start there anyway... It's free to try that.

 

[TJDaveX]

Best place to buy the Savvy quickly? I’m in NorCal.

RC


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https://www.4lowparts.com/product-category/jeep-transfer-case-cable-shifter-np231-np241or/

 

[cruzcode]

Did you have a body lift on, before you did the rock crawler lift? It looks like there is an additional bracket bolted to the body side that shouldn't be there. Typically, those are installed with a body lift. If you removed the body lift, you need to remove the drop bracket too. I'd start there anyway... It's free to try that.

When I bought the rig it had a 4 inch rough country lift on it, with transfer case and spacers. I removed the spacers and the rough country lift, adding the Rock Krawler Long-arm Lift . You may be right, perhaps one of those need to be removed. The rig does not have anybody left, and I would like to keep it that way.

Thank you for the recommendation!

RC


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[Dawghouse]

Mine gave me nothing but trouble. I went with this from Azzy Design Works.

http://www.azzysdesignworks.com/store/jeep-np231-transfer-case-linkage-kit

I love it. No more issues at all.

Brian is a great guy. If you have any questions at all call him 724.835.4239

 

[Jim Byrne]

Recently, I purchased my first TJ to build. After working with my friend (who does fabrication), we built up this into a nice little stretched rig with a Rock Krawler 5.5” Long-Arm Lift, with 6.5 inches of rear stretch.

The problems that I’m having, is that I may have mucked up the Factory Transfer Case Linkage while dropping the 5-speed & T-Case, or didn’t situate it properly when resetting back into position with the new drop belly pan, etc.

Here is what I’ve noticed:
#1) The Linkage appears to be jammed upward near the T-Case, compared to where it hinges on the body tub.
#2) I feel like the rotating lever that pivots on the body tub and connects to the T-Case should be horizontal, and mine is not.
#3) The Linkage is jamming/rubbing up against the actual T-Case, not allowing it into 2WD

I had purchased a TeraFlex HD Linkage Kit just to have it, but realized that it was going to be a PITA to install after everything was back in. So, I did NOT install that, as it was at one friend’s garage, and it needed to get out of there quickly.

I’ve read some threads on here about some aftermarket shifters, etc. While that may be an answer, I’m wondering if any of the veterans on here can look at these photos and identify what needs to be done.

Thank you guys in advance!

RC

Here is a picture of my rig (before and after), and then the transfer case photos:

View attachment 41514

View attachment 41515

View attachment 41516

View attachment 41517

View attachment 41518




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro[/QUOTE

The original linkage is poorly designed--replace it!
I just installed a Advance Adapters unit and it works great.
It was a pain in the tail to install but worth doing.
You can contact them direct in Paso Robles, Cal.

 

[cruzcode]

All, thanks for the feedback and responses.

Based on the initial feedback, and some references, I went with Savvy. Ordered one Friday for Saturday delivery. I was jammed up on other portions of the build this weekend, so I will not get to install it until this coming week.

I’m just reallllllly hoping that I do not need to drop the RK belly pan, and that I can install it in place.

More later...

RC


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[Chris]

You need to drop the belly pan to do it. It won't be possible without dropping the belly pan. Take that from someone who just installed a Savvy cable only a few weeks ago.

Dropping the belly pan isn't hard though, it's really easy.

 

[mrblaine]

You need to drop the belly pan to do it. It won't be possible without dropping the belly pan. Take that from someone who just installed a Savvy cable only a few weeks ago.

Dropping the belly pan isn't hard though, it's really easy.

You've never dropped a RK belly pan. Not easy, not fun. Basically it would be the same for you if all your control arms were hung from the belly skid and you have to stabilize the axles before you can even think about dropping it.

We've converted a few of the RK kits to mid arm. On one, they welded the skid to the frame. The owner wanted to save some money so I told him he could come and cut the welds. Took him 4 hours.

 

[mrblaine]

You need to drop the belly pan to do it. It won't be possible without dropping the belly pan. Take that from someone who just installed a Savvy cable only a few weeks ago.

Dropping the belly pan isn't hard though, it's really easy.

Second answer and why social media confuses me greatly. Codaman likes this post, says so right at the bottom. Why does he like it? Because he agrees with it? Because that is what he would do? What exactly about this reply causes someone to "like" it?

 

[glwood]

You need to drop the belly pan to do it. It won't be possible without dropping the belly pan. Take that from someone who just installed a Savvy cable only a few weeks ago.

Dropping the belly pan isn't hard though, it's really easy.

I don't know about the configuration currently of the OP's skid plate, and how much trouble that would be to lower, but when I did the Savvy cable shifter on my previously owned X, I did not lower my stock skid plate. So it is entirely possible. Doing so may have made installing the cable shifter easier, but it did not seem like a big deal to me to install it with the skid plate in place...

 

[mrblaine]

I don't know about the configuration currently of the OP's skid plate, and how much trouble that would be to lower, but when I did the Savvy cable shifter on my previously owned X, I did not lower my stock skid plate. So it is entirely possible. Doing so may have made installing the cable shifter easier, but it did not seem like a big deal to me to install it with the skid plate in place...

Likely due to a different mindset about trying to get done, but I wouldn't even begin to install a cable shifter with the belly pan and front driveshaft in place. Takes us about an hour to do one and get it fully adjusted, skid plate back on, driveshaft back in, carpet back in place, etc.

 

[CodaMan]

..I wouldn't even begin to install a cable shifter with the belly pan and front driveshaft in place...

I "liked" your post because i also wouldn't want to install a cable shifter without removing the belly pan and front drive shaft either ... and because @Chris said "You need to drop the belly pan to do it.", I "Liked" his post as well since no "Agree" button is available.

 

[Chris]

You've never dropped a RK belly pan. Not easy, not fun. Basically it would be the same for you if all your control arms were hung from the belly skid and you have to stabilize the axles before you can even think about dropping it.

We've converted a few of the RK kits to mid arm. On one, they welded the skid to the frame. The owner wanted to save some money so I told him he could come and cut the welds. Took him 4 hours.

I wasn't even sure what an RK belly pan was to be honest, I'd never heard of it until now. I assumed it was just another transfer case skid plate like all the others!

Doesn't sound like fun at all!

 

[Chris]

I don't know about the configuration currently of the OP's skid plate, and how much trouble that would be to lower, but when I did the Savvy cable shifter on my previously owned X, I did not lower my stock skid plate. So it is entirely possible. Doing so may have made installing the cable shifter easier, but it did not seem like a big deal to me to install it with the skid plate in place...

With the stock skid plate and how low it hangs, I believe you'd have a lot more room to fiddle around in there. I guarantee you if you looked at my Rokmen skid, you'd see it would be damn near impossible to do it with the skid plate still attached.

Maybe some sort of crazy contortionist could do it, but I'd like to see that!