Can I temporarily turn my 99 TJ into a 2WD convertible?

[SamwiseGamJeep]

So right now, my 99 Jeep tj has been sitting since late summer due to lack of funds to do the complete re-gear it needs. So as not to stress the wife, parked and I back it out of the garage once a month, run everything and park. Something in the front Dana 30, open diff, 3.07, is eating itself up, heard it clearly when hard top went back on, and only on deceleration. It needs to run, and all we do is road and ride anyway. I believe it is the front pinion bearing going. So if I pull cover, and it's not just the spider gears, ( based on experience I don't think so), what should I do along with removal of driveshaft from T-case to front diff, to just convert to 2WD, until we can afford to fully re-gear front and rear and install the SYE it needs? All U-joints are replaced also, outer hub bearings, brakes, tires, rims, all new.

 

[hear]

You can definitely remove the front driveshaft, unless you're in 4WD it's not doing anything anyway. If you literally never use the 4WD then you can run this way for as long as you like. I dare say most jeeps spend the entirety of their life with a purely decorative front drive shaft.

Usually when people ask this question its about removing the rear driveshaft and running in 4WD (read: front wheel drive), which is also ok.

 

[Vtx531]

You would have to pull the driveshaft, pull the axle shafts, drain the differential fluid, maybe stuff rags in the axle tubes to keep stuff from getting inside but I would still not drive or park in the rain because it would get water into the differential and rust it everything.

 

[hear]

You would have to pull the driveshaft, pull the axle shafts, drain the differential fluid, maybe stuff rags in the axle tubes to keep stuff from getting inside but I would still not drive or park in the rain because it would get water into the differential and rust it everything.

Why would he need to pull the axle shafts? Also, if he did do that he would still need the stub shafts in the bearing.

 

[Vtx531]

Why would he need to pull the axle shafts? Also, if he did do that he would still need the stub shafts in the bearing.

Because he said the pinion might be chewing itself up. If you just disconnect the driveshaft then all the internals are still spinning and making more noise and damage.

Why would he need stub shafts in the bearing?

 

[JMT]

Like @Vtx531 said; driveshaft, axle shafts. You have to remove the inner axle shafts because they are rotating the internals. You have to leave the outer to hold the hub. It’s fine to drive without the front inner axle shafts. You could open the diff to drain the fluid and take a look. At least you would know.

 

[SamwiseGamJeep]

Thanks for the replies guys, all these things you've brought up so far, are what I'm struggling with and rolling around in my head, trying to figure out and come up with a solution.
And trying to figure out if there really is a feasible way to make it safe to use, drive, and keep everything rolling until we can afford the thousands to have everything done and done properly. New engine build, and literally almost everything except T-case and diffs have been replaced in it. Sitting six months now, and we all know what happens when they sit.
Due to our current family and financial situation, it literally could be a year or two or more before we could afford to re-gear and SYE it.
I have put WAY too much into this five year restoration already to let it ruin.
Not to mention the stress we're under, it would be a help to us to be able to enjoy our top off escape and stress relief vehicle occasionally, its why I bought it in the first place.
(Her Mom's care is through the roof right now, not a good situation. )
When it broke I told my wife, "don't worry, put it out of your mind, it's parked in the garage until we can afford to fix it properly. "

 

[MikeE024]

I’m driving without the ring gear, locker (carrier), and inner/outter axle shafts right now. (edit: see in posts below why the stock hubs need the outter installed)

I have locking hubs but I can’t think of why you couldn’t drive with the axle shafts removed since your hubs are bolted to the knuckle, and the wheels are held on at the studs. (edit: the correct reasoning is shared in posts below)

You could potentially install the outter stud shaft and tighten it down via the nut to protect your hub bearing. I don’t know if doing so would cause any issues. I can’t think of why it would hurt but check in with others or verify it yourself.

My front DS is installed bc it doesn’t need to be removed.

 

[TimV]

"but I can’t think of why you couldn’t drive with the axle shafts removed since your hubs are bolted to the knuckle, and the wheels are held on at the studs."

The hubs are held together by the axle stubs and compression applied by the hub nut torqued down properly. Without the stubs the hub bearings will eventually walk themselves apart with the wheel falling off.

"You could potentially install the outter stud shaft and tighten it down via the nut to protect your hub bearing."

Yup.

Tim

 

[JMT]

So right now, my 99 Jeep tj has been sitting since late summer due to lack of funds to do the complete re-gear it needs. So as not to stress the wife, parked and I back it out of the garage once a month, run everything and park. Something in the front Dana 30, open diff, 3.07, is eating itself up, heard it clearly when hard top went back on, and only on deceleration. It needs to run, and all we do is road and ride anyway. I believe it is the front pinion bearing going. So if I pull cover, and it's not just the spider gears, ( based on experience I don't think so), what should I do along with removal of driveshaft from T-case to front diff, to just convert to 2WD, until we can afford to fully re-gear front and rear and install the SYE it needs? All U-joints are replaced also, outer hub bearings, brakes, tires, rims, all new.

Searched and found Mr Blaine’s response to this type of question.

“…pull the inner, leave the outer to hold the wheel bearing together, stuff rags in the tube and go have fun.“

 

[macleanflood]

By the time you're done thinking about all this I could find a used Dana 30 with that same stock ratio for a couple hundred on CL or FB marketplace and have it swapped in.

Or buy a parts Jeep and be ready for the next issue...or sell off the parts and be money ahead.

-Mac

 

[SamwiseGamJeep]

By the time you're done thinking about all this I could find a used Dana 30 with that same stock ratio for a couple hundred on CL or FB marketplace and have it swapped in.

Or buy a parts Jeep and be ready for the next issue...or sell off the parts and be money ahead.

-Mac

Agreed, And don't think I haven't thought of it, but with our family and current financial status, and priorities, (Jeep is a luxury escape reality vehicle), even $200 is stress to the wife.
We have three other vehicles to maintain and keep going for daily family responsibilities.
Not to mention parking a parts jeep in the back, more stress and worries for her.
Jeep is supposed to be our stress relief, and right now we don't even talk about it And I try not to stress her. Can't even enjoy a top down ride.
Not to mention, I could certainly do all of that, and end up with another Dana 30 bolted up to it, that would also have a bad pinion bearing or ect., and I can't do gears, gearing, and pinion backlash torque and all that.
I will have to pay someone big money to set this thing up right. Front and rear.
Just trying to come up with a way to keep it running so the $4500 engine build, tires and everything else doesn't leak, get flat spots, and go bad sitting.
I have way too much in this Jeep, by doing things right and new, than it will ever be worth. Like to the tune of $20K including what we paid for it five years ago. The surprise engine build was the kick in the teeth and budget that did it.
And it still needs complete re-gear , SYE and more to make it like it should be.

 

[chili_pepper]

decorative front drive shaft.

They should put that in the marketing material, "Comes standard with decorative front drive shaft".

 

[hear]

I can't do gears, gearing, and pinion backlash torque and all that.

Can't do, or haven't yet done? I would venture that most everybody here started out as the "I can't" but eventually realized you can do way more than you think you can.

That said, don't let the jeep be a cause of stress. Life is way too short. If its mere presence is causing you unending pain, then find a new 30, throw it under the jeep and sell it. Then later you can think about finding a new-to-you/better one.

 

[SamwiseGamJeep]

Can't do, or haven't yet done? I would venture that most everybody here started out as the "I can't" but eventually realized you can do way more than you think you can.

That said, don't let the jeep be a cause of stress. Life is way too short. If its mere presence is causing you unending pain, then find a new 30, throw it under the jeep and sell it. Then later you can think about finding a new-to-you/better one.

Haven't done.
I've done more to, and spent more on this Jeep in five years, that in 30 on my 94 Eddie Bauer Bronco. And it has stretched me and my abilities and made and taught me more than any vehicle I've owned. I've done things repairing my Bronco that I never would have done before, because of the jeep.
I am still leery of gearing. I've done everything on it and replaced all most everything on it myself except the engine build.
Every single U-joint, almost all brake components. And it does stress, but what I'm trying to say is, I'm trying not to bother my wife with it at all, we've been caregivers for elderly family for over a decade, now on our last, her Mom, and the load on her is staggering and draining, when the jeep was going it was our wind in her hair, fresh air distraction. Just trying to get to use on the road until I can cough up what it will take to finish it right and be as reliable as possible.

 

[Rickyd]

As said, stub shafts are needed to keep the front wheel bearings together.

You can safely make it 2wd with a few hand tools,hammer,drain pan,jack and a few rags.

 

[mrblaine]

Haven't done.
I've done more to, and spent more on this Jeep in five years, that in 30 on my 94 Eddie Bauer Bronco. And it has stretched me and my abilities and made and taught me more than any vehicle I've owned. I've done things repairing my Bronco that I never would have done before, because of the jeep.
I am still leery of gearing. I've done everything on it and replaced all most everything on it myself except the engine build.
Every single U-joint, almost all brake components. And it does stress, but what I'm trying to say is, I'm trying not to bother my wife with it at all, we've been caregivers for elderly family for over a decade, now on our last, her Mom, and the load on her is staggering and draining, when the jeep was going it was our wind in her hair, fresh air distraction. Just trying to get to use on the road until I can cough up what it will take to finish it right and be as reliable as possible.

Rather than pop the joints apart to separate the inner and outer shaft, find a pair of stock outer shafts and just use those to hold the unit bearings together. Alternately, you can get the stubs from a 2wd XJ and use those. Or, I've sent several rigs to be regeared with just a large bolt holding the unit bearings together. No sense in us installing new front shafts when they are just going to remove them to pull the carrier, so we improvise, new shafts in the back seat, bolts in the unit bearings.

The key point to remember is the unit bearing can separate into 2 pcs., one stays attaches to the steering knuckle, the other stays attached to the wheel and tire. They do not stay attached to each other and depend upon the stub shaft for that to happen. The stub bolts the two halves together.

 

[Weasellee]

Searched and found Mr Blaine’s response to this type of question.

“…pull the inner, leave the outer to hold the wheel bearing together, stuff rags in the tube and go have fun.“

Do this. It’s free and you can drive all you want to. Couple wrenches and a BFH and this is done.
Take the top off out the wife in the Jeep and go for a stress release ride all whilst showing her how awesome you are.

 

[hear]

The key point to remember is the unit bearing can separate into 2 pcs., one stays attaches to the steering knuckle, the other stays attached to the wheel and tire. They do not stay attached to each other and depend upon the stub shaft for that to happen. The stub bolts the two halves together.

I've accepted it, but I think many people find this surprising because when you have the bearing in your hand, it's not immediately evident that they can separate. But ultimately i guess it's just a bearing and a race, and something has to keep them together. It seems like the 36mm axle nut is just holding the axle to the bearing, but it's actually holding the bearing together.

 

[JMT]

@SamwiseGamJeep

Sounds like you’ve got it made if you can afford two bolts. One for each side to hold the unit bearings together. This is an easy one and you can get some stress relief. Sometimes a little top down driving is all you need to get past the financial stress. Two bolts FTW!