What have you 3D printed for your TJ?

[sab]

Red version is scaled using the Anykubic slicer which is very close to fitting but the taper is misaligned.

Explain what you mean by that. I can't reconcile that with the photo. It looks to me like the print may have warped.

Black is scaled using fusion but fails (twice) when printing the second end.

Again, seems like a printing issue, not a modeling or scale issue.

FWIW the unmodified version of model we’re modifying printed multiple times and fits great.

With the original's shape, I bet you printed it with the + touching the build plate because that's the only logical way to do it. How did you orient the modified version? That one's not so logical, and I learned from my center console project that slender objects are challenging to print. I think that's the biggest problem you're experiencing, and the only advice I have is 1) you need a lot of patience, and 2) you just have to keep experimenting with orientation and settings.

MLS SAB is scaled in fusion
Other is the slicer

You posted a zip containing the g-code files. Those are the instructions that the printer follows to make the print. There's no way to view a part in Bambu Studio or Fusion with the g-code file that I know of.

I think, from your last photo, that the scaling is correct. You just have some printing issues. I've said it before in this thread - 3D printing, even with Bambu's "easy button," is anything but easy. I've got two (more - add them to a long list so far) models I'm trying to print currently that are giving me grief...

 

[Rut Row]

I've said it before in this thread - 3D printing, even with Bambu's "easy button," is anything but easy.

amen.

 

[sab]

Very close.

Red version is scaled using the Anykubic slicer which is very close to fitting but the taper is misaligned.

Black is scaled using fusion but fails (twice) when printing the second end.

FWIW the unmodified version of model we’re modifying printed multiple times and fits great.

MLS SAB is scaled in fusion
Other is the slicer

This is what I’m trying to modify.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6460823

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Moshe, I've done a bit more investigatin', and the problem is likely unit conversion errors. I despise the metric system because I've been using "normal" units to measure things for about 55 years. The metric system may be simpler to learn, but once you learn a measurement system, you "think" in that system, and, at least for me, it's hard to re-train my brain to think in a new system. Probably why I have a hard time learning new languages. My brain just ain't wired that way. But, I digress...

In this case, the metric system just complicates the crap out of this situation. What I've learned this morning is that STL files are unitless - there are coordinates, but no unit of measure is assumed. Therefore, the software you are using matters. In Fusion, STL files are automatically interpreted as centimeters if you just open them in Fusion. Yes, centimeters - a unit of distance measurement that almost no one uses - ever. How stupid is that?

Here's what screwed me up. The designer of that Thingaverse model designed it in mm, I opened it in Fusion set to inches, so Fusion took the coordinates, assumed they were cm, and converted to inches during the opening process. I saw that it looked much larger than it was supposed to be, and scaled it from mm to inches by dividing by 25.4. At that point, I had invented a new system of measure. ("sab units")

I'm guessing that, when you printed the red one, you kept scaling it using a random scale factor until it "looked about right." I don't see how using 25.4 as a conversion factor would have given you a part that was even close to working.

So, this morning I tried to use the proper workflow to create an stl file where the coordinates are in mm. I downloaded the Thingaverse file, set Fusion to mm, used "Insert Mesh" to bring it into Fusion instead of just opening it (that allowed me to specify that the coordinates were in mm), cut the "wings" off, and exported to an stl that should be in mm. I've attached the Fusion file and the stl file. Try that stl file in your slicer to see if it does a better job. As for how to orient the part for printing, you're on your own there. If you print it vertical, you won't need support for any overhangs, but a part that slender is likely to fail due to warping. If you print it horizontal, you'll need to use support due to the dovetails on the ends, and that support will give you an ugly surface finish. I've never used it, but the best option might be to manually add support and print it vertically. You can add support to keep it from warping.

Good luck, and please report back!

 

[NashvilleTJ]

... I've said it before in this thread - 3D printing, even with Bambu's "easy button," is anything but easy. ...

amen.

Ain't that the truth...

I've made a few tweaks to the Warn Winch Cover I made recently, and after many iterations of print settings and orientations (all using PLA), last night I loaded up the ASA for the final print.

Using PLA, the orientation which resulted in the best print quality (and also recommended by Bambu Studio Slicer) was this:

But with the ASA - this was the result:

It printed beautifully with the PLA. I thought the surface quality issue on the right was my only problem - but while taking this picture I also noted this:

It's supposed to be flat...

My guess is that the warm ASA started to sag a bit while it was printing resulting in the upper portion literally curving up during the print.

So I'm back to the print drawing board. Any suggestions on dealing with the ASA?

I think I'll reprint it flat using supports under the horizontal edges. None of that area is visible when installed.

Learning curve, learning curve....