Woo hoo! I got some work done on the LJ again this weekend. Yesterday, I removed the rear turn signals to get ready to pull the corner off and install the nutserts for the tub rub rails and the rear valance armor. When I did so, I decided to fix a shortcoming of the Genright corners I used. That being that the oblong slots for the tailight wire pigtails are undersized (small than the tub holes). As a result, you can't pass the connector through to unplug it. Instead, I have to reach up the inside of the corner with one arm and blindly push the release button while pulling the other side of the connector off from the outside. On the left side, it's not so bad, but with the EVAP system on the right side, it's cumbersome.
To remedy that, I used my trusty ball-end carbide burr to widen the slot, then I used touch-up primer, paint, and clear to protect the edges. No pictures were taken, though.
Today, I worked on wiring mods, of which I have a long list. I started it back in September by installing a Weather-Pack bulkhead fitting (go back to Post #729 to see that, if you desire.) Today, I wired two components to the engine side of that connector: the SpeedoHealer and the SwitchPro control wires.
For the SpeedoHealer, I originally used their wiring harness that has a male and female connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the transfer case and then ran it up into the engine bay. I didn't like the cumbersomeness of that setup and I really wanted to get the control box inside the cabin since the engine compartment is so hot, so I decided to tie directly into the harness for those wires and penetrate the firewall.
I disconnected C1 and C2 from the PCM, pulled that short section of harness up next to the valve cover (for working room) and removed the loom. Then, I located all the wires with the color-coding I needed, put a removable cable tie around that bundle, and then put a second removable cable tie around the rest of the bundle to keep things separated:
The wires I needed were:
Sensor Ground - a 20g wire colored Dark Blue with a Dark Green stripe
Sensor +5V - a 20g wire colored Yellow with a Pink stripe
VSS Signal - an 18g wire colored Dark Blue with an Orange stripe
There were multiples of each of those wire colors in the bundle, so I used an ohmmeter to identify the right ones. Once I found them, I wired in a short pigtail with a 4-pin Deutsch connector. That way, if I ever get rid of the SpeedoHealer, all I have to do to go back to stock wiring is make a mating connector with a simple jumper from green to white in it.
The sensor ground and +5V were take-offs (meaning I connected the SpeedoHealer red and black wires in parallel to those existing wires), but the VSS signal had to be split, with the sensor side going to the white wire and the PCM side going to the green wire on the SpeedoHealer (the SpeedoHealer takes the input signal from the VSS on the white wire, changes the frequency, and outputs it to the PCM via the green wire.)
Once I had the Deutsch connector coming off the harness, I made a short pigtail harness with the mating Deutsch connector on one end and ran the other end to the bulkhead connector:
Then I cut the leads to length, installed terminals and set them in the bulkhead connector, and put some loom on the new harness:
The SwitchPro control wires were a much quicker, easier task because SwitchPro provides a harness. All I had to do was cut it to the right length and install the terminals for the bulkhead connector on it. That only took a few minutes:
And that's as far as I got this weekend. Stay tuned!
To remedy that, I used my trusty ball-end carbide burr to widen the slot, then I used touch-up primer, paint, and clear to protect the edges. No pictures were taken, though.
Today, I worked on wiring mods, of which I have a long list. I started it back in September by installing a Weather-Pack bulkhead fitting (go back to Post #729 to see that, if you desire.) Today, I wired two components to the engine side of that connector: the SpeedoHealer and the SwitchPro control wires.
For the SpeedoHealer, I originally used their wiring harness that has a male and female connector at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the transfer case and then ran it up into the engine bay. I didn't like the cumbersomeness of that setup and I really wanted to get the control box inside the cabin since the engine compartment is so hot, so I decided to tie directly into the harness for those wires and penetrate the firewall.
I disconnected C1 and C2 from the PCM, pulled that short section of harness up next to the valve cover (for working room) and removed the loom. Then, I located all the wires with the color-coding I needed, put a removable cable tie around that bundle, and then put a second removable cable tie around the rest of the bundle to keep things separated:
The wires I needed were:
Sensor Ground - a 20g wire colored Dark Blue with a Dark Green stripe
Sensor +5V - a 20g wire colored Yellow with a Pink stripe
VSS Signal - an 18g wire colored Dark Blue with an Orange stripe
There were multiples of each of those wire colors in the bundle, so I used an ohmmeter to identify the right ones. Once I found them, I wired in a short pigtail with a 4-pin Deutsch connector. That way, if I ever get rid of the SpeedoHealer, all I have to do to go back to stock wiring is make a mating connector with a simple jumper from green to white in it.
The sensor ground and +5V were take-offs (meaning I connected the SpeedoHealer red and black wires in parallel to those existing wires), but the VSS signal had to be split, with the sensor side going to the white wire and the PCM side going to the green wire on the SpeedoHealer (the SpeedoHealer takes the input signal from the VSS on the white wire, changes the frequency, and outputs it to the PCM via the green wire.)
Once I had the Deutsch connector coming off the harness, I made a short pigtail harness with the mating Deutsch connector on one end and ran the other end to the bulkhead connector:
Then I cut the leads to length, installed terminals and set them in the bulkhead connector, and put some loom on the new harness:
The SwitchPro control wires were a much quicker, easier task because SwitchPro provides a harness. All I had to do was cut it to the right length and install the terminals for the bulkhead connector on it. That only took a few minutes:
And that's as far as I got this weekend. Stay tuned!