Eastwood frame paint

[Korelick]

Have you used the Eastwood frame Rust Encapsulator paint? I ordered a can and some brushes in an attempt to save the rust free frame I have now.

Any helpful tips? Should I have gotten a mini roller, or is a 1.5" brush good to tackle small portions at a time.

Does it actually stop the surface rust when you paint over it, or do I need to sand it down with some fine grit and wipe it good?

Thanks guys/gals!

 

[Dan The Video Man]

Removing as much of the surface rust as possible before applying is going to give you the best results.

 

[BlueC]

Any helpful tips?

Yes. Like any paint project, cleaner is always better. Clean out any and all lose rust. Flush with water, soapy water if you can. Before painting, hit it with a cleaner, something like their "pre". You should also know that the "internal frame coating" is very runny and will find any and all leak points. It sticks to concrete very well, so tape off holes and put down something to catch it.

For the internal coating hose I like to let them hang and relax for a few days before using. I also like to tape the hose to something stiffer like a metal coat hanger when and where I can.

I'm pretty sure @chili_pepper has experience here.

 

[chili_pepper]

I'm pretty sure @chili_pepper has experience here.

Don't drag me into this...ya bastage!

I gave up offering body and paint advice as most only want you to reinforce the "quick and dirty solution" they already had in mind...the correct way(s) is/are typically slower, more involved and more expensive. Good enough usually isn't. That said...

The more rust you can remove the better - all of it in a perfect world. Rust converters aren't, the rust is the conversion, and once the metal has, it no longer has any value (scale rust is not structural or dimensionally stable). Complete removal is best, cleaning up what's there and protecting the area from moisture in the future is the next best, assuming nothing is structurally compromised by the existing corrosion. If you eliminate the moisture, the rust will not get worse than it is, it can't. Rust is not a growth, it's a chemical reaction, and one that can be stopped by removing the catalyst. How you do that is the crux of the biscuit...

Eastwood frame Rust Encapsulator paint

I have read up this material but have no direct experience with it, but a number of members here have used it and with apparent success. Provided the you follow the instructions and the material "does what it says on the tin", in theory you should be good to go.

I purchased my LJ with a rust free frame ~3 years ago now. I initially looked at using the Eastwood products, but since changed up my approach. Currently, the plan is to use Waxoyl cavity wax inside the frame rails, after a through clean and dry to remove any accumulated dust, dirt and other loose crap. For external frame surfaces, I plan on cleaning up any minimal surface rust pits, etch priming and coating with a 2k single stage paint product (likely SprayMax Hot Rod Black. Over that, I'm considering a coat of Waxoyl Hardwax for additional protection on areas that take more abuse (skid plate and the like).

 

[BlueC]

Don't drag me into this...ya bastage!

So.... just lay the Rust-Oleum right over it, no need to clean or anything?

 

[chili_pepper]

So.... just lay the Rust-Oleum right over it, no need to clean or anything?

View attachment 701748

Precisely. Looks good from my house...

That rust either originated from compromised factory coatings (common where wheels spin and fling shit around) or a shitty previous repair, if'n I had to wager.

But seriously, and for starters, just say "NO" to Rust-Oleum for auto body repairs. If it isn't a catalyzed product, it will not be as durable, and you want coatings that set and harden, not just dry on the surface. But, and it's a big old but, you can use the finest products in the world for your repairs, if you do not prep the surfaces every step along the way, you are just wasting time, money and materials. No adhesion, no bueno.

 

[BlueC]

if you do not prep the surfaces every step along the way, you are just wasting time, money and materials. No adhesion, no bueno.

There is the key for the OP and anyone else reading this hoping to do a little painting.

 

[chili_pepper]

There is the key for the OP and anyone else reading this hoping to do a little painting.

Prep is at least 90% of any successful repair.

 

[TheBoogieman]

just say "NO" to Rust-Oleum for auto body repairs.

Now you tell me.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

Now you tell me.

View attachment 701776

Problem was all the rust-oleum was on the inside of the can.

 

[Korelick]

Don't drag me into this...ya bastage!

I gave up offering body and paint advice as most only want you to reinforce the "quick and dirty solution" they already had in mind...the correct way(s) is/are typically slower, more involved and more expensive. Good enough usually isn't. That said...

The more rust you can remove the better - all of it in a perfect world. Rust converters aren't, the rust is the conversion, and once the metal has, it no longer has any value (scale rust is not structural or dimensionally stable). Complete removal is best, cleaning up what's there and protecting the area from moisture in the future is the next best, assuming nothing is structurally compromised by the existing corrosion. If you eliminate the moisture, the rust will not get worse than it is, it can't. Rust is not a growth, it's a chemical reaction, and one that can be stopped by removing the catalyst. How you do that is the crux of the biscuit...



I have read up this material but have no direct experience with it, but a number of members here have used it and with apparent success. Provided the you follow the instructions and the material "does what it says on the tin", in theory you should be good to go.

I purchased my LJ with a rust free frame ~3 years ago now. I initially looked at using the Eastwood products, but since changed up my approach. Currently, the plan is to use Waxoyl cavity wax inside the frame rails, after a through clean and dry to remove any accumulated dust, dirt and other loose crap. For external frame surfaces, I plan on cleaning up any minimal surface rust pits, etch priming and coating with a 2k single stage paint product (likely SprayMax Hot Rod Black. Over that, I'm considering a coat of Waxoyl Hardwax for additional protection on areas that take more abuse (skid plate and the like).

Seems like you do know a thing or two about rust chili_pepper. I just bought this TJ with a no rust frame. Just some minor surface that will come off with some sanding and a mild wire brushing. "Good enough" is not my MO, I am just very new to the Jeep world and learning daily. I want to look into your Waxoyl cavity wax, and the Spray Max alike.

My loose plan was the prep as best as I can since it's minor surface, then I was going to primer and then seal. You and the others have given me a lot to think about. Thanks!

 

[Korelick]

I think with the Eastwood stuff I just fell victim to seeing it on the Jeep parts web site and thinking "it must be good if it's on their site". But I know what rust can do. It's like the cancer I had - all must be removed before the healing begins. What I have learned is rust is the cancer of Jeeps.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Have you used the Eastwood frame Rust Encapsulator paint? I ordered a can and some brushes in an attempt to save the rust free frame I have now.

Any helpful tips? Should I have gotten a mini roller, or is a 1.5" brush good to tackle small portions at a time.

Does it actually stop the surface rust when you paint over it, or do I need to sand it down with some fine grit and wipe it good?

Thanks guys/gals!

i used this inside my frame a few years ago and worked great- seems to do what it says on the tin

 

[chili_pepper]

Seems like you do know a thing or two about rust chili_pepper.

I spent a bit of time in the trenches, many years ago now, beating panels, huffing paint fumes and filler dust. As for rust, I hate it...unless used in passivation (not an automotive application). It ruins vehicles, among many other things.

I think with the Eastwood stuff I just fell victim to seeing it on the Jeep parts web site and thinking "it must be good if it's on their site".

To be clear, I'm in no way suggesting that the Eastwood product doesn't do what it says, only that I have zero personal experience with it and, as well, decided to look at a less permanent (potential) solution. I think once you've committed to coating the inside of the frame with the Eastwood encapsulator, it's kind of a permanent thing (and you would probably want it to be). @Thedogsbollocks may be able to offer more insight here.

I want to look into your Waxoyl cavity wax

https://www.waxoyl-usa.com/

and the Spray Max

https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/

Spraymax and similar products allow you to spray professional catalyzed (2K, hardened) products without the need for professional spray gear (you still need a respirator, but they're inexpensive). I wouldn't want to paint an entire car with it, but for panel and spot work, it does very well. I was introduced to the brand back in 2008 through a local body supply business, I think I was the first customer to try it. I color matched a grille surround on a car with a two stage shoot, very easy to work with. The clearcoat finish lasted almost as long as the factory paint did...from a spray can.

rust is the cancer of Jeeps

It's the bane of existence for all things steel. If you can keep the steel isolated from moisture, you can win the battle. But a scratch, a chip...a small spot of bare metal is all it takes for shit to kick off. Manufacturers typically and historically do a pretty poor job of protecting against it, and in some cases a vehicle's design can actually promote it.

 

[Korelick]

I'm in no way suggesting that the Eastwood product doesn't do what it says

Gotcha! I didn't take it that way. I took it that it wasn't the route for you, and after reading that you work in the industry, I can understand why.

Appreciate you guys spending the time to educate me on what works for you, and what your processes are or will be.

 

[chili_pepper]

Appreciate you guys spending the time to educate me

That's the beauty of human-based internet forums like this one. All voluntary and based on the real-world experiences of many, lots of assistance and information to be had here. AI doesn't give a shit about you, but we do.

 

[BlueC]

I think with the Eastwood stuff I just fell victim to seeing it on the Jeep parts web site and thinking "it must be good if it's on their site"

To be clear, I'm in no way suggesting that the Eastwood product doesn't do what it says, only that I have zero personal experience with it

I have personal experience with Eastwood paint products, including some of their "rust" paints/coatings. Of the things I have used, I've always had good to great results. Probably a decade ago I used the rust encapslulator product and some "chassis black" on the rusty hitch receiver on my truck. It's starting to show some age and surface rust now, but for spray can products, I'm happy with it. I'd recommend Eastwood stuff.

 

[BlueC]

Timely video. I've seen a few of this guys videos, and it seems like he does good work. Check it out.


View: https://youtu.be/Fk3NPZge51Y?si=63b-3cCUUc1Q95Bn

 

[The4bangertj]

I use Eastwood on my frame. So far it’s done good. I try and clean the inside and paint it every other year. I might start spraying fluid film in it but once I do I won’t be painting it anymore so wanted to get to a level of containment with scaling the rust off and cleaning before doing so.

 

[dan58]

I've used quite a bit of the Eastwood stuff. PA winters. Enough said. The red TJ had a frame swap, and I used the internal frame coating. Get in there and wash it out well. Drill holes behind the skid plate to let it drain correctly. Give it a few days to dry, and tape all the holes. It should take 2-3 cans. Be sure to spray inside the crossmember above the gas tank. Water lays in there too.

As others have said, prep is the key. I also use Fluid Film on my other vehicles. The LJ will never seen winter again. The red TJ might see some, but it's been frame swapped and coated internally. I had it sandblasted and then coated with 2K Eastwood chassis paint.