Four angry squirrels, or the TJ 2.5's and 2.4's

Also keep in mind you're doing an engine no favors when you baby it by driving it conservatively all the time. When driven too conservatively, engines get loaded up with carbon which causes problems like pinging, knocking, poor performance, requiring higher octane gas to avoid pinging or knocking, etc. Rev them all the way up to near redline and accelerate hard once in a while to keep them cleaned up inside. Really, this is no old wive's tale. :)
 
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Also keep in mind you're doing an engine no favors when you baby an engine by driving it conservatively all the time. When driven too conservatively, engines get loaded up with carbon which causes problems like pinging, knocking, poor performance, requiring higher octane gas to avoid pinging or knocking, etc. Rev them all the way up to near redline and accelerate hard once in a while to keep them cleaned up inside. Really, this is no old wive's tale. :)
I never thought that was true until a mechanic confirmed it. The first time I absolutely punched it to redline it spit blue smoke for a few seconds but after that it was fine. On that drive i hit it 2 more times and the third time there was no smoke. None since then either. Guess it cleaned it out good.mined 4.0 by the way but I assume it is good for all engines once in a while.
 
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Although it's slow as shit on the highway, I always open her up every once in a while


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Oh yeah, it's horrible on an engine to put around and never open it up. Somehow it got started on the internet that babying your engine would make it last longer. Quite the contrary. If you open it up and regularly rev it high, you'll get better life and performance out of the engine.

Now keep in mind I'm not advocating fatty burnouts, slamming it in gear, or just being plain stupid. I'm talking about opening it up, not bouncing off the rev limiter as much as possible.
 
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Oh yeah, it's horrible on an engine to put around and never open it up. Somehow it got started on the internet that babying your engine would make it last longer. Quite the contrary. If you open it up and regularly rev it high, you'll get better life and performance out of the engine.

Now keep in mind I'm not advocating fatty burnouts, slamming it in gear, or just being plain stupid. I'm talking about opening it up, not bouncing off the rev limiter as much as possible.
I completely agree. I open mine up about once or twice a week. But I also drive it Alot in city. Only time I bounced it off the Rev limiter was backing out that crazy hole I went in yesterday

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Weight. Have I mentioned weight? We don't have a huge HP or torque budget to work with, and the power available at idle or just off idle is pathetic. It's very easy to put a 1,000 pounds of crap on a TJ in an effort to look cool and keep up with the Jones's. If you want to do that, you don't want the four banger. Be very conscious of how much weight you add to your TJ SE either through the stuff you bolt on or the stuff you throw in the back. Ten pounds here and ten pounds there adds up rather quickly. Loaded for the trail, my SE crosses the scale at 3,200 - 3,300 pounds with a full tank of gas and my fat ass out of the Jeep. I work diligently to keep the weight there, or even less if I can swing it. Think like a backpacker, not like an RV'er. Ditch the hard top if you can get away with it. Take your MRE's out of the box and saw the handle off of your toothbrush. You get the idea.

A note on aluminum parts. Just because a part is made out of aluminum, don't assume that it is lighter weight than the same part in steel. That is very often NOT the case. Be a pest and check with the manufacturer. If they can't or won't tell you what a part weighs, even approximately, look elsewhere.
Well said. I have a 2002 SE and while my son thinks I'm missing a third of my engine, I've been very happy with it. Yes, its not going to win any drag races and you need to downshift more often than the 4.0L, but I've found the transmission shifts smoother than the 2006 Sport with a 6 speed I used to own. The low gearing is great for the hills in downtown Seattle and I've been able to keep up with freeway traffic or at least the semis moving houses :). I like its simplicity in this age of gizmo cars.
 
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Awesome info! Few years back had to sell my stock 04 TJ. Recently corrected that mistake. Found a 2005 2.4l, super clean and a good price! However it has a few things that are new to me - was wondering if you could enlighten me on what they are and get your overall opinion.
- 2.5in rough country lift
32x11.5x15 tires
Dana 30&Dana 35 with 456 gears
Detroit trac in rear
I would actually like to go down in tire size to a 31x10.5 as long as they don’t look too small for the lift.
 
Awesome info! Few years back had to sell my stock 04 TJ. Recently corrected that mistake. Found a 2005 2.4l, super clean and a good price! However it has a few things that are new to me - was wondering if you could enlighten me on what they are and get your overall opinion.
- 2.5in rough country lift
32x11.5x15 tires
Dana 30&Dana 35 with 456 gears
Detroit trac in rear
I would actually like to go down in tire size to a 31x10.5 as long as they don’t look too small for the lift.

Sounds like a good setup. 30s would likely look just fine.
 
Awesome info! Few years back had to sell my stock 04 TJ. Recently corrected that mistake. Found a 2005 2.4l, super clean and a good price! However it has a few things that are new to me - was wondering if you could enlighten me on what they are and get your overall opinion.
- 2.5in rough country lift
32x11.5x15 tires
Dana 30&Dana 35 with 456 gears
Detroit trac in rear
I would actually like to go down in tire size to a 31x10.5 as long as they don’t look too small for the lift.
Nothing wrong with that. 4.56's will work better with the 31's anyway.
 
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Thanks, so I’m a little clueless - what’s Dana 30&35 and Detroit trac

Dana 30 is the type of front axle you have (Dana 30), while Dana 35 is the rear axle you have (Dana 35).

A Detroit is a type of locker (there are many).
 
No such thing as a Detroit "trac." It is very likely a Truetrac which is made Eaton. The TT is a gear driven limited slip, not a locker. Eaton also makes the Detroit locker, which is a true locker.
 
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Good information! I've currently got an 03 SE w/ 2.4L Auto. 4" Short arm, 33x12.50s. Down here in South Mississippi I needed the 33s because I was bottoming out on the 31s everywhere I went. Got the lift and tires and now this thing is a dog. I was planning on re-gearing it but the ole girl started showing her ass and has been laid up for a while waiting on time and funds to free up (kids ain't cheap by the way). Now I got orders taking me up to Maryland so after a deployment I was looking into a magnum swap if that state allows swaps with their emissions. So if anyone is from there and can shed some light on what other stupid laws they have up there that would be great. Just like with their gun laws it's pretty difficult getting a straight answer on anything (bumper heights, tire width, aux lights, etc.). Either way the trooper has done me well and even though it is pretty gutless I have grown to love it.

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