Should I upgrade to Dana 60s to run 35s?

LaneTJ

LaneTJ

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So my Dana 30 on my sport is swapped with a G2 Dana 44 with a Eaton e-locker and my TJ came from factory with a Dana 44 in the rear and now has em E-Locker there as well. To run 35’s would it be worth it to upgrade to 60’s and put 17 inch rims on for the big brake kit or can I run 35’s now?
 
Most any search will say you are good on the Dana 44’s with 35’s. I have been running a hpd30 and Dana 44 locked on 35’s for about 5 yrs now. So far so good. >35 = bigger axles.
 
As far as brakes go, my BMBrake pads and centric rotors stop my manual rig on 35’s very well. However some may say you need a big brake kit, but you don’t have to have 17” rims to do that.
 
Keep your axles. Read up on what others are doing with them.
 
I’ve been looking into the BM pads and that’ll probably be a definite purchase when these brakes are worn out. I’m just looking for opinions, since everybody always has a different perspective on how to build. I’m just taking in all considerations.
 
LaneTJ said:
I’ve been looking into the BM pads and that’ll probably be a definite purchase when these brakes are worn out. I’m just looking for opinions, since everybody always has a different perspective on how to build. I’m just taking in all considerations.
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Although the BMB pads and rotors make a huge difference, I would still recommend the BBK for 35s.

I put on BMB pads/calipers/rotors when I installed 35s, and while it stops well, it could be a lot better.
 
I have the Vanco 17" big brake kit with BMB brake pads. You need 17" wheels to clear it, but man does this thing have some stopping power, even with my 35s!

Keep your axles, put alloy axle shafts in them (I run Revolution rears and RCVs in the front) and call it a day. That's all you need for 35s. Dana 60s are unnecessary unless you're running 37s or larger, or have some very special need.
 
Personally I prefer the look of 15x12.5x35s. So I’m having the 15”BBK with a hydo boost installed. I thought about going to a 17” myself but spent the extra cash to keep the look and not compromising on stopping power.
Just another option to look at.

I too have been told that the 60 would be overkill unless you’re going to be doing serious rock crawling.
 
I would want 15" wheels with 35s for the extra sidewall. I would not want a Dana 60 with 35s because of the loss of ground clearance compared to a perfectly adequate Dana 44.
 
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Given I'm a bit odd as I run JK axles but I can't kill ether of my 44s front or rear (g2 chomos rear and 35 spline rcvs front) with 37" Bias ply Trepadors. If you are responsible with the loud pedal than tj 44s can be made to live through 37s as well depending on your terrain. I do recommend a truss though as the tubes arn't the strongest and a know a few jeeps that smile from behind.

On 35s I wouldn't consider 60s unless you were planning to spend a lot on a full axle build (gears, lockers, shafts, truss, brakes) and plan to go larger. If you want to go 40s or something any time soon then don't drop a dime on your 44s, save up your parts and pennies and do the whole build in one shot.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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I’m just starting to piece a plan together. My duractracs have a lot of life left in them so I’m looking into the future on this. Sounds like new shafts, 17’s and a BBK are gonna be in my list. Does anyone have experience with beadlocks? A friend runs Hutchinson Rock Monsters but I know not much about them.
 
LaneTJ said:
I’m just starting to piece a plan together. My duractracs have a lot of life left in them so I’m looking into the future on this. Sounds like new shafts, 17’s and a BBK are gonna be in my list. Does anyone have experience with beadlocks? A friend runs Hutchinson Rock Monsters but I know not much about them.
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Great off-road. I just hope you never have to change a tire, never have to get the tire off the rim, never have a run in with the law and can afford several hundred dollars for a tire change. They are a PITA in so many ways. If you have a dedicated rock Crawler I can see that. Otherwise, no need. Air down to 10psi and go have fun
 
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Question for @LaneTJ what gear ratio do you have on your dana44 rear axle? This chart suggests that to run 35" tires you would want a 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio. https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-26.htm

I just bought an '04 TJ with 17" wheels and 35" tires and auto transmission but unfortunately the rear axle is a dana30 with 3.73 gear ratio. I'm told it's really not ready for off-roading. I'd be interested in everyone's opinion on where to go. I was thinking an atf cooler, a used dana44 rear axle and add/make sure it has 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio. I want light offroading, not rock climbing. Thoughts?
 
BradC said:
Question for @LaneTJ what gear ratio do you have on your dana44 rear axle? This chart suggests that to run 35" tires you would want a 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio. https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-26.htm

I just bought an '04 TJ with 17" wheels and 35" tires and auto transmission but unfortunately the rear axle is a dana30 with 3.73 gear ratio. I'm told it's really not ready for off-roading. I'd be interested in everyone's opinion on where to go. I was thinking an atf cooler, a used dana44 rear axle and add/make sure it has 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio. I want light offroading, not rock climbing. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
With a 4speed auto
4.88 isn't even enough gear, look to 5.13 or in the mountains even 5.38.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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