Tom Wood rear Rubicon drive shaft question

JeepZilla380

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Hello all, still chasing down some minor vibes from my recent tummy tuck, and its starting to lead me to just replacing the rear driveshaft on my LJ Rubi, and I am looking at his 1310 rear driveshaft. Is there any opinion of the ujoints Tom uses, the gold seal joint's vs spicer non-greaseables? I think I had read you can order the shaft from Tom with the Spicer joints if you wanted. Any opinions?

Thanks!
 
Yes Tom will build them with Spicers at no extra charge if you like. I prefer Spicer u-joints and Tom has always built my driveshafts with them with nothing but a thank you for my business. Just tell him you want him to use Spicer's 5-1310x which is sealed and non-greasable. It's a great problem-free u-joint. :)
 
Yes Tom will build them with Spicers at no extra charge if you like. I prefer Spicer u-joints and Tom has always built my driveshafts with them with nothing but a thank you for my business. Just tell him you want him to use Spicer's 5-1310x which is sealed and non-greasable. It's a great problem-free u-joint. :)

X2. I had Tom use the same u-joints on mine. I much prefer the sealed u-joint. It's one less fitting to worry about greasing.
 
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Was just laying in the garage on my lunch break looking at my rear pinion angles, the drive shaft slope and the TC output angles, and I don't think there is anyway around ordering up a new drive shaft. Always knew it was a possibility with the tummy tuck, even with the not completely flat variety. I was just hoping the LJ would be a bit more forgiving, but only so much you can work with on a stock driveshaft, 3.5 inches of lift and another 2 or so in the tuck.
 
Was just laying in the garage on my lunch break looking at my rear pinion angles, the drive shaft slope and the TC output angles, and I don't think there is anyway around ordering up a new drive shaft. Always knew it was a possibility with the tummy tuck, even with the not completely flat variety. I was just hoping the LJ would be a bit more forgiving, but only so much you can work with on a stock driveshaft, 3.5 inches of lift and another 2 or so in the tuck.

Yeah, at that point you need one, even on an LJ!

Depending on which skid plate you have, it can be anywhere between an additional 2-4” of added lift to the pinion angle.
 
Was just laying in the garage on my lunch break looking at my rear pinion angles, the drive shaft slope and the TC output angles, and I don't think there is anyway around ordering up a new drive shaft. Always knew it was a possibility with the tummy tuck, even with the not completely flat variety. I was just hoping the LJ would be a bit more forgiving, but only so much you can work with on a stock driveshaft, 3.5 inches of lift and another 2 or so in the tuck.
Agreed, you have the equivalent of 5.5" of lift which is too much for the OE driveshaft even with an LJ. Tom Wood has complete SYE and CV kits, that's what I'd go with.
 
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If I can cut down on any amount of grease fittings, I’m okay with that! There’s so many sometimes I just forget!
At one point I had 34 zerks near as I can remember, I got rid of 3 of them by going with sealed rear driveshaft u-joints so I guess I still have something like 31. Yowsa. My CTM axle shaft u-joints have 4 apiece so that's 8 right there.
 
At one point I had 34 zerks near as I can remember, I got rid of 3 of them by going with sealed rear driveshaft u-joints so I guess I still have something like 31. Yowsa. My CTM axle shaft u-joints have 4 apiece so that's 8 right there.
That brings up another good question. With that many zerks, have you found a grease gun worth a damn you could recommend? My current one is leaking away in a bucket in the garage.
 
That brings up another good question. With that many zerks, have you found a grease gun worth a damn you could recommend? My current one is leaking away in a bucket in the garage.
Ha nope, I have the same issue. I have probably 4-5 different grease guns and none of them are worth a crap including even an air-powered Craftsman grease gun. All give me leaks and fits at times.
 
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Good Q on the grease gun. I was wondering the same. I supposedly have a decent one (brand name escapes me ) but wish I bought a Harbor Freight, for half the price. I keep mine sitting vertical and wrapped w a shop towel.

I also wish I had gone w the sealed u-joint for my Wood’s shaft. I now need to grease mine, since recently wheeling. This’ll be my first time greasing it myself and Im dreading the fact the I’ve got to remove it at one end to get to the inside zerk!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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My only thought on the future grease gun is putting it in a 2 gallon bag in the beer fridge in the garage. Maybe they keep it from bleeding all over the place in the GA heat.
 
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Ordered the Drive shaft this am. Went with the spicer 5-1310x on the CV side, he said I would be a 1330 on the diff side. Grease fitting for the CV ball and slip and spine. I did go with the premium spline upgrade. Had an option for a dust cap or a boot for the spline. Any opinion one way or another on cap vs boot? I went cap since Josh said it the boot tears and doesn't go noticed, you may run into issues.

Oh and Tom is throwing in a Tom's black hoodie for sales in October.
 
Oh and Tom is throwing in a Tom's black hoodie for sales in October.
That's a cool hoodie, I have one on the way! I don't know what a dust cap is for the splined slip joint, I've always had a rubber boot. Tom never made any suggestions on that one way or the other to me.
 
That's a cool hoodie, I have one on the way! I don't know what a dust cap is for the splined slip joint, I've always had a rubber boot. Tom never made any suggestions on that one way or the other to me.

Glad I searched out Toms on FB, wouldn't have known about the hoodie offer!
Didn't know the differences on cap vs boot either, spoke to Josh this am when I placed my order. Guess ill see when it gets here! I'll post up pics, cause who doesn't like pics!
 
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That's a cool hoodie, I have one on the way! I don't know what a dust cap is for the splined slip joint, I've always had a rubber boot. Tom never made any suggestions on that one way or the other to me.
Do you know if, “Tom,” uses domestic steel for his USA built driveshafts? Or does he go overseas for his metal/material?