Questions on Rough Country x-series lift

[ErikOffroad]

I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler that I am looking to install a 4 inch lift on, and also install 33-12.5-15 tires.
I am trying to stay on a budget here which is why the 4 inch x-series lift from rough country is so appealing . I am not going to spend more for a Currie lift, it’s out of the question. The problems that I see with the RC lift though is
1. It does not come with bump stop extensions. Is this going to cause a issue with rubbing
2. It had a pitman arm drop and a track bar drop in the kit. I’m seeing that some people say this may cause bump steer and recommend going with a aftermarket track bar that uses the factory location. What track bar would I have to buy and will the factory steering linkage still work without the drop pitman arm.

 

[tworley]

Have you looked into Zone? They offer a 4.25 combo which is a 3" suspension lift allowing you to keep stock control arms, no tcase drop, and a 1.25" body lift. This would allow you to easily clear 33s. Pair it with a metalcloak, currie, or JKS trackbar

 

[ErikOffroad]

ya but I’m looking to get rid of the stock control arms. And I’m looking to do a body lift and clear 35’s later down the road after I do the ford 8.8 rear and build a super 30. a body lift with a tummy tuck will be done in the future .

 

[tworley]

If you want adjustables then they're not going to come cheap. RC is a bottom-of-the-barrel lift. Look for something with either a johnny joint or duroflex joint. Read Currie, Metalcloak. CORE control arms have somewhat of a following with JJs on one end, but then you have a stiff rubber joint on the other--thats where the issue lies with alot of the lower end kits.

The Zone kit allows you to build off of that. You can run it just the way I described, and when you are ready for control arms and axle upgrades, then you can buy new CA with a JJ or DF joint.

The TJ does not utilize a drop pitman arm, it will introduce bumpsteer. Thats why you see the higher end kits not include it. Bumpstops are specific to each individual jeep. You will have to pull the coils and cycle your axles to full bump, droop and left/right looking for interference. Set your bumps to what those interference points will be.

 

[Alex01]

Do you already have a SYE? If not your going to need one with a 4 inch lift unless you add the TC drop.

 

[ErikOffroad]

I’m fine buying lower end control arms. This is a old rusty Jeep from Pennsylvania I bought for pennies off my uncle. I’m not looking to do a high end lift on it ever. I’m just looking to have some fun with it at hidden falls on the weekends on a budget. The question was weather I should use the drop pitman arm that comes in the kit with the track bar relocation bracket. Or purchase a different track bar for the front and be able to use the factory steering linkages or have to purchase something else

 

[ErikOffroad]

Yes I plan on getting a yse and a driveshaft when I do the lift

 

[Chris]

If you want adjustables then they're not going to come cheap. RC is a bottom-of-the-barrel lift. Look for something with either a johnny joint or duroflex joint. Read Currie, Metalcloak. CORE control arms have somewhat of a following with JJs on one end, but then you have a stiff rubber joint on the other--thats where the issue lies with alot of the lower end kits.

X2 to this.

The control arms that come with Rough Country lifts are garbage. You're just wasting your money. Save up and buy a quality control arm and do it right the first time. Trust me... I've been here.

I'm not trying to talk down to you, I'm literally giving you advice that most of us wish we would have taken when we first started our builds.

 

[ErikOffroad]

The problem just comes down to the fact that the rough country lift with a driveshaft and yse is 1700 dollars. The lifts with the Johnny joints are 2400 and that doesn’t include shocks or a sye and driveshaft. The cost of that stuff is more than I payed for the jeep

 

[ErikOffroad]

Is the price difference justified or is that money that can go into something else like a selectable locker

 

[Chris]

If you're concerned about the amount of money your might put into the Jeep being more than you paid for it, then you probably have the wrong vehicle.

Many of us (in fact I would say most of us) at this point have more into our Jeeps than we paid for them. That's just how it goes. If you want to modify these things and have fun with them, that will happen over time. That's why it's a hobby.

By all means, go with Rough Country, I just hate to see someone waste money on a company that is widely known to produce crap quality components.

That being, said, to answer your questions:

1) Yes, you will need to extend your bump stops. No one can give you the exact amount you'll need to extend them to either. You'll have to determine that by cycling your suspension and seeing what contacts and what doesn't.

2) A dropped pitman arm and a dropped track bar work together to cancel out the bad. However, this is a classic example of the idiots at Rough Country and one more reason you shouldn't buy from them... they don't know how to engineer something basic like a lift kit. Why would the drop the track bar and the pitman arm when you could do it the right way (like other companies do) and just bolt the track bar on in the stock location and use the stock pitman arm. That's Rough Country trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist in the first place. Again... poor company with a poor design.

 

[tworley]

In that case I would still stick with the Zone 4.25 with new OEM control arms for $20 a piece at RockAuto. When you are ready to swap axles and move things around then look at adjustables. Cores would probably suit your needs. When ready for 35s then you can buy cheap 4" springs

 

[ErikOffroad]

Ya the zone 4.25 kit is $620 doesn’t come with a front track bar. Is that needed. Do I need to engine mount lift brackets with the body lift for the engine fan to clear.Do I still need a yse and driveshaft . Do I need extended brake lines because that’s not included either. And how much flex am I getting if I’m not changing out control arms for a while?

 

[tworley]

Not needed if you can live with your axle being off to one side. Many will pair it with a currie, JKS, or metalcloak trackbar (MC being the cheapest). The OEM arms are actually a great design, they are able to twist and flex without putting strain on their mount locations. The Zone comes with a 1" mml. With the MML, and actual suspension lift only being 3" you can get away with not using an SYE and DC shaft. You might have to lower the tcase with a couple washers if you do experience vibrations. Brakes lines would be probably be ok. If you are worried you could get a set of YJ brake lines for $20 and they are several inches longer than TJ lines.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Since you're on a budget, go for the Zone 4.25" kit which is made up of a 3" suspension lift plus a 1.25" body lift.

Personally, I wouldn't install a Rough Country or Skyjacker suspension lift kit if they gave it to me for free and paid to have it installed.

Do NOT install a dropped Pitman arm even if it's in the kit you buy. Doing so will just cause bump steer... where the steering will be 'bumped' left/right as you drive over bumps/dips in the road.

 

[ErikOffroad]

Metal cloak has a 3.5 inch lift for around 2300 with shocks that looks pretty complete. With that and they yse and driveshaft I would probably be around 2900. Is this the way to go and just save up spend the extra money right off the get go. These control arms from rough country better be as bad as nathen peterman if I’m doing this....

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Metal cloak has a 3.5 inch lift for around 2300 with shocks that looks pretty complete.

If you're willing to go that much $$$ why wouldn't you go with the well proven and respected Currie? You absolutely would not regret Currie's suspension lift with its well-proven Johnny Joints. Mine is over ten years old, plenty of HARD use, and its Johnny Joints are still in superb original un-rebuilt condition. I personally would not touch those joints in that other brand.

 

[ErikOffroad]

Because I’m not sure yet if I’m willing to go with that much more money yet. The Currie suspension is more money than that, And you are starting to sound like a salesman for Currie.

 

[tworley]

Because Currie is a tried and true suspension. Many of us will recommend it

 

[Jerry Bransford]

.... And you are starting to sound like a salesman for Currie.

Pardon me all to hell I'll just immediately back out of your thread.