Questions on Rough Country x-series lift

In that case I would still stick with the Zone 4.25 with new OEM control arms for $20 a piece at RockAuto. When you are ready to swap axles and move things around then look at adjustables. Cores would probably suit your needs. When ready for 35s then you can buy cheap 4" springs

For the wallet friendly setup you asked for, this is the best advice on the thread.
 
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I purchased the RC lift kit (2.5 springs and 1.25 body lift). I don't plan on doing much offroad stuff, I live in Denmark. Our highest point is 170 meters above ocean level. I just want to be able to cruise through mud and snow. And for that, my TJ without lockers suck anyway, whichever lift kit is on it. I spent more than twice as much money getting it mounted than I paid for it (bought it on Ebay.de in Europe, and it cost me some $700 with everything which was too cheap to pass). The drawback for me is that it looks really messed up three places: Firstly at the front where it leaves a gap between the grille and the bumper, and secondly at the rear where it just looks like something fell off the car.The mechanics are hanging out as if the bumper is sagging. I really wish I didn't opt for the body lift but it came in the box... Will be looking for solutions for this in a new thread. Third weird place is in the rear wheel arch where it leaves a slung line unfilled (hard to explain) which again looks like something fell out or there was supposed to be a cable there or something. I wish I had read up more at a previous point before throwing some $3k into it. Also, could probably have done it myself rather than taking it to the shop.

Wrt the RC driving experience. It was utterly horrid before the install. It is way better now. That doesn't mean it's good on asphalt. It is a jeep. I did however opt for the tyre-allignment and that removed every single wobble issue that I had before. If I was going offroad a lot, I would choose a better reputated brand for the lift kit. For the trust-factor alone.

Best of luck with your project!
 
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That’s just the thing, the frame is good, it just has some surface rust that I can take care of. It had holes
Rotted through the tub below the door openings that I patched and it also had holes in the floor right in front of the rear tires that I patched. I really don’t know how long I will keep it for as of now because we have been moving around the country every 2 year for my wife’s job. It’s convenient now because I have a off road park 30 minutes from my house but I may not have that luxury in the future. The only other problem is that the wife has a 2018 jlu Sahara that would probably be are wheeling rig in 10 years. I’m building this because I thought it would be a cheap way to get into off roading. I mean the tj isn’t in that bad of shape and it only has 92000 on it, and I have the ability to do body work. I just like the tj because I had one as my daily driver for 10 years and I got rid of it and got a new car because the frame was so rotten on it. Then I had this Jeep pretty much fall in my lap so I bought it and drove it to Texas. I got money and I can do it right I just didn’t think it would be as expensive. I thought i was going to spend 1700 on a lift and a sye and now u guys are telling me I need to double my budget.
 
Gotta pay to play.

If its just starting out as a wheeling rig and wont be around forever, then again I will suggest zone. You would have a damn capable rig under 1k (not counting shocks, tires, gearing).
 
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I’m going to do some research on this zone kit and come back to this thread later today. I think that I may go zone and try and do a tummy tuck with a yse and a gas tank skid and see what all I may need for this route and prices.
 
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I’m going to do some research on this zone kit and come back to this thread later today. I think that I may go zone and try and do a tummy tuck with a yse and a gas tank skid and see what all I may need for this route and prices.
Be aware that a tummy tuck plus the Zone kit puts you right back at the Currie & Savvy kits plus the tummy tuck.

If the TT interests you, consider doing that first, and focus on tires and lift later on.
 
Be aware that a tummy tuck plus the Zone kit puts you right back at the Currie & Savvy kits plus the tummy tuck.

If the TT interests you, consider doing that first, and focus on tires and lift later on.

I remember seeing a video about a Jeep engineer that had a TJ with 31's, a Tummy Tuck, and lockers. That Jeep would go almost anywhere the bigger Jeeps would, even on stock suspension.

@ErikOffroad, if you are only trying to do mild wheeling, that setup would work very well. Hell, 31's with lockers and a TT is more capable than 33's with no lockers and no TT.
 
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I remember seeing a video about a Jeep engineer that had a TJ with 31's, a Tummy Tuck, and lockers. That Jeep would go almost anywhere the bigger Jeeps would, even on stock suspension.

...

It's a huge advantage.
 
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I’m thinking I’m going to stay at 33 inch tires and not make the way up to 35’s. That said I would like to see if
There was a way to go with this zone lift and do a tummy tuck.
I’m probably going to go for a winch after that and then go after that Ford 8.8 build in the future
 
I’m thinking I’m going to stay at 33 inch tires and not make the way up to 35’s. That said I would like to see if
There was a way to go with this zone lift and do a tummy tuck.
I’m probably going to go for a winch after that and then go after that Ford 8.8 build in the future
For the TT and the lift, you'll need adjustable control arms, double cardan rear drive shaft and an SYE.

There is nothing special about the Zone kit, other than it's clever selection of modifications. I ran my own diy version for several years.

Look closely at the Super 35 kit by Revolution. I would take that over an 8.8 any day.
 
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So the general consensus is don’t buy rough country lift.
I think I’m going to do the 4.25 combo lift from zone and get my 33’s on. From that point I will probably do a winch and look at the axles.

If need be I will look into a tt and yse and driveshaft and control arms later down the road.
The only thing I don’t know is I was looking at a gas tank skid at one point that raised the tank up in conjunction with a body lift and I want to take advantage of that. I just can’t remember who made the skid and I need to make sure the body lift in the zone kit is the right size for that skid plate.
 
So the general consensus is don’t buy rough country lift.
I think I’m going to do the 4.25 combo lift from zone and get my 33’s on. From that point I will probably do a winch and look at the axles.

If need be I will look into a tt and yse and driveshaft and control arms later down the road.
The only thing I don’t know is I was looking at a gas tank skid at one point that raised the tank up in conjunction with a body lift and I want to take advantage of that. I just can’t remember who made the skid and I need to make sure the body lift in the zone kit is the right size for that skid plate.

Savvy makes a gas tank skid that can be used at stock height, or raised up 1" in conjunction with a bodylift. A 1.25" body will work with it.
 
For the TT and the lift, you'll need adjustable control arms, double cardan rear drive shaft and an SYE.

There is nothing special about the Zone kit, other than it's clever selection of modifications. I ran my own diy version for several years.

Look closely at the Super 35 kit by Revolution. I would take that over an 8.8 any day.

Extremely surprised to hear you recommend a super 35 over a 8.8 in the long run. Potentially for his application and budget, yes.

But why? No disrespect at all! Just want to learn. Cheers.
 
By the time you factor in welding costs, and brackets, the 8.8 isnt all that cheap. Throw a locker on top of that too. Plus having an offset pinion and large center diff and drawbacks to the 8.8. A super35 has more ground clearance, its oval shape has a very strong design, the new chromo shafts are strong as OE dana 44 shafts, plus the super35 kit includes an ARB locker. All those benefits for the 1k give or take. Id do that in a heartbeat if I still had a Dana 35
 
Ya but I can find a ford 8.8 3.73 with a lsd in a pick and pull for around 200 dollars. I can get a axle truss kit for around 250 and do all the welding my self. The only thing I don’t know is should I use the factory carrier or put something else in. I know I need parking brake cables and something for the brake line too, but I’m more than capable of doing the work