I was thinking of doing this as well, one more thing I'd like to learn to weld for.
I'd particularly like to get rid of the gap in the rear (between the tub and the bumper) at the same time... it's very unsightly.
Help me make a decision on my BL
- Thread starter CasperLLY
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I was thinking of doing this as well, one more thing I'd like to learn to weld for.
I'd particularly like to get rid of the gap in the rear (between the tub and the bumper) at the same time... it's very unsightly.
Did you add material to the top edge to reach the frame or is there a small enough gap to fill in with weld? I haven't studied the mounts enough to see what is going on.Depends on how good you are.Before I convinced Tony to make the raised versions, I used to do it this way.
View attachment 66747
I know I can do it with the factory mounts. This is a ways off, so I'm not thinking too hard about the cost vs convenience yet.
There would be a decent size gap. Genright solves this by adding strength back in with "legs" that wrap onto the top of the frame rail.
I've been dragging the bumper for several years and catching the side mounts more and more recently. It certainly looks good, too!
Yes, it serves a dual purpose. Clearance, and aesthetics. We all know that that gap can be particularly ugly.
That's what I was thinking.
It would be nice if Savvy or GR sold a partial body lift or full hidden body mount kit, so that it wasn't necessary to buy the six side pucks.
The sides are relatively easy, any way you do it. Chopping off the back of the frame will require a bit more courage and commitment. For me at least.
Increase departure angle and cover the gap?
Not all polyurethane is the same. I have Daystar's 1" kit, which yielded more than an 1" BL. All bolts torqued to spec and thanks to Loctite 243 have stayed that way.
Not all polyurethane is the same. I have Daystar's 1" kit, which yielded more than an 1" BL. All bolts torqued to spec and thanks to Loctite 243 have stayed that way.
Doesn't the Daystar BL entirely eliminate the factory isolator? That's a worthy topic to explore.
Only as compared to some of the enormous bumpers out there. Don't look too closely at mine...
Then there is what looks like a high waist line to cover up the BL gap. That might be the important feature for some.
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BoldlyGoing
TJ Addict
It does eliminate the isolator. I have their kit on mine and have for about a year. So far, no issues.
I can’t say for sure that there is any advantage to it. In my case, I picked it because it was well reviewed and until reading this thread, had never heard anyone give a good reason for the aluminum pucks. Time will tell I suppose.
Does the Daystar kit use an inner sleeve to truly isolate the body from the frame? That inner sleeve is also what allows the ability to set the bolt torque and evenly load the mounts. The inability to bottom out on a sleeve and torque the body bolts is one of the significant failings of the JKS kit.
BoldlyGoing
TJ Addict
Yes, there is a sleeve in the daystar set. I can’t recall what it was, but there was a torque spec in the installation manual.
This is a 5 year old memory, but I recall a torque spec on JKS as well. I knew enough back then that I needed to slowly work up to that number in smaller increments. But I did notice that as I jumped around tightening, the torque would lessen on the previous bolts. Looking back I see why that sleeve matters as it creates a hard bottom for the bolt to clamp against.
BoldlyGoing
TJ Addict
Yes, it's custom, so any way you want it.
The Daystar kit has internal sleeves, and OE sleeved dome tops are reused. Pedestals have a sleeved neck also.
I opted for the Savvy 1.25" Body Lift. I liked the aluminum as well, and it fit well over top the body mounts. While I was at it, I put on new Crown body mounts since the original ones were getting a bit stiff and cracked. So far, seems great.
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