Metalcloak 6-Pak shocks: A viable alternative to outboarding?

I'm guessing that they achieved this extra travel by compacting the gas reservoir inside the shocks to a very, very small amount of space. I'm not a shock expert, but I don't think that does great things for ride quality.
OME crams it all together even tighter. See my edit above. Once upon a time they were a favorite before the valving changed. The measurements are nearly the same been the old and new.
 
I did some research on this. Looks like they need to be recharged every 6 months. ...

I recall reading that MC acquired the 6 pack design from another company (similar story as their fenders). One of the problems back then was that because of the long travel and smaller components required to keep the packaging from being enormous, the seals wore quickly and leaked.
 
OME crams it all together even tighter. See my edit above. Once upon a time they were a favorite before the valving changed. The measurements are nearly the same been the old and new.

Oh yes, I had forgotten that OME changed it all up with their Nitrocharher Sports. At one point I had their old shocks and they actually rode very nice. The new ones, not so much.
 
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I did some research on this. Looks like they need to be recharged every 6 months. Certainly not a low maintenance way to get some more flex.

@Chris do you need to recharged your fox shocks or is it a once and done type deal?
Unless you damage the shaft and take out a seal, they don't need a recharge. I've been around some used hard for many years still holding pressure but a nitrogen charging kit and some odd bits to connect it all up isn't the end of the world either.
 
Yes, I have to recharge my shocks with nitrogen every so often which requires taking all the shocks off the vehicle and either having someone else fill them for me, or just using something like this:

https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-nitrogen-kit

I’ll probably just put together my own kit for cheaper though.

Fortunately taking the shocks off the vehicle isn’t as bad since they are out-boarded, and the mounts are now much easier to accsss.
Not sure why you would be charging them every so often unless that is every couple years or so. You can do yours on the rig by just drooping the axle out and hit the end of the reservoirs.
 
The "tune" doesn't need to be redone, but if the shock won't hold nitrogen pressure, it will need to be rebuilt (seals go bad).

I'll have to ask @pcoplin how often I should expect to fill them. I suspect some of it has to do with how hard you beat on them. However, the shocks are super easy to check with a with a gauge that goes above 200 psi. You just hook it up to the schrader valve. The shocks should remain at 200 psi. If they lose charge over the period of a few days, it means they likely need to be rebuilt.

This is taken from the Fox Owner's Manual:

Fox shocks should be charged with nitrogen only. Nitrogen will not hold moisture, and expands less as temperatures increase. Do not fill your shocks with compressed air because this will introduce moisture to the shock causing internal corrosion.

FoX shocks should be left at the factory setting of 200 psi of nitrogen. The nitrogen charge in the shock is to pressurize the internal floating piston (IFP) and avoid cavitation. Tuning should be performed through spring rates or shock valving changes and not with changes in nitrogen pressure.

We recommend checking the nitrogen pressure regularly. We also advise cleaning the bodies and shafts several times a year.


It's worth checking out the Fox offroad shock owner's manual here:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/dl/offroad/605-00-035_REV_B.pdf

I'm sad that Fox doesn't understand compressed gases. You'd think they, of all people would know better. No compressed gas "holds" moisture. At the pressures in a shock, all gases expand the exact same amount with increases in temperature.
 
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How can a shock physically have both a short compressed length yet also have long travel? :confundio1:
If I were doing it, I would optimize the center of eye to shaft arrangement, configure the internal piston to be as close to the end of the shaft as possible, run a twin tube design so there is a gas compression chamber beside the fluid body so the piston goes to the end of the body without adding length for the gas chamber, and rework the top eye so that it is very close to the body.

The average shock pays no attention to any of that.
 
I'm sad that Fox doesn't understand compressed gases. You'd think they, of all people would know better. No compressed gas "holds" moisture. At the pressures in a shock, all gases expand the exact same amount with increases in temperature.

Maybe they’re saying that to scare people, in hopes that no one will try to fill it with hydrogen or something.
 
I do not.
They compress air, draw off the heat, compress, remove heat. Eventually the air will turn into a liquid at very low temps. As the liquid warms up and boils, the different gases boil at different points so you can extract the pure gas at specific boiling points or temps.

Here is a simplified version of the process.

What state would moisture be in at any of those temps? That's right, a solid, so there is no way any moisture is in any of the common compressed gases, oxygen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, etc. The only time we get moisture is using compressed air that hasn't been put through a good dryer set up.
 
Metalcloak also offers the RockSport Long Travel Shock. Their site is down right at the moment but I think they are 12" travel shocks. I have no experience with them nor do I know anyone who runs them either.

I’ve got the Rocksports.
 
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