What is your preferred method of replacing u-joints? A hammer? A ball joint press? A hydraulic press?
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Replacing U-Joints: Do You Prefer a Hammer or a Press?
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Stox5225
TJ Enthusiast
C clamp and a drill. Also known as a ball joint press haha. Now, removing them, gladly bash them with a hammer. But install, I don’t want to risk busting a cap. Hydraulic press would be ideal, but I don’t own one.
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Usually a hammer and socket of correct size. I will also use my vise at times.
ohiopatriot
TJ Enthusiast
Be very careful with a press we have seen many bent ears. Hammer them out, use a vise to install, they will go in smoothly with little effort when square to the bore.
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A hammer. It's too easy to bend the yoke or ears inward with a press, ball joint tool, or vise.
Billwynburger
TJ Enthusiast
I recently changed out all 3 U-joints for the front drive shaft. Dana spicer 1310's I bought the complete rebuild kit which was great advice
( thanks to Jerry B. ) I used a 32 oz ball peen hammer. A very solid surface was key, you want little or no bounce when hammering them out. It was very easy besides spilling all those little needle bearings all the floor and in my shoes. Those damn things go everywhere OMG what a nightmare they were in my shoes damn it! :yikes:
( thanks to Jerry B. ) I used a 32 oz ball peen hammer. A very solid surface was key, you want little or no bounce when hammering them out. It was very easy besides spilling all those little needle bearings all the floor and in my shoes. Those damn things go everywhere OMG what a nightmare they were in my shoes damn it! :yikes:
OP
My first couple times, I used a BJ press because I didn't know any better. The last several (including today's DC rear drive shaft), I use a hammer and sockets with a vice as an anvil. I find this much easier. The caps go in just fine with light/medium taps around the perimeter to get them started and going straight.
I tried removing my front axle u joints yesterday using sockets and dropping a sledge hammer on them. Would not budge. A u tube vid says heat the caps with a torch first. Then u can bash them out easily...
I guess ill try that tomorrow.
The factory caps have no clip rings :-/
I have no vise or press.
If the torch method doesnt work, ill take the axles to a driveshaft joint on Monday... :-/
I guess ill try that tomorrow.
The factory caps have no clip rings :-/
I have no vise or press.
If the torch method doesnt work, ill take the axles to a driveshaft joint on Monday... :-/
OP
The retainer c clips are inside the yoke. Look on the other side of the ear. Knock them out with a flat head screwdriver.
Steve Rodgers
TJ Enthusiast
I used my ball joint press for my front axles. Yes, care is needed to be sure the ears are not bending. The cups went back in pretty easily. I cleaned them up and lightly oiled them. Pressed right in.
Since I do understand the damage I can do with a hammer,, I do use a Ball Joint press. Usually I do pay more attention using this type of tools than when I do use the hammer.
Hammer = Past frustration point, for me.
Hammer = Past frustration point, for me.
What are you guys using for hammers? 2lb shop? Ballpeen? Something else? Tackling my two front ujoints today on my alloy shafts
OP
I never ever use a shop press, vise, or a ball joint press. I always use a hammer. It is almost impossible to bend the yokes on axle shafts with a hammer. I know this because I have had several folks send me their shafts to straighten the yokes back out after they bent them with presses.
I'd also like to see the vise that will push in the caps on alloy axles, has to be pretty hefty with some decent length on the handle for leverage.
The other reason to avoid pressing is the cap has to be driven slightly past the correct spot where it is going to live to get the snap or retaining ring cleanly in the groove. Then you flip it over and use the other side to push it back to seat the first ring flush and give you just enough room to get the second retainer in place.
Once that is done and you have all 4 caps installed and all 4 retainers installed, you need to set the caps against the retainers with inertia. That is done by smacking the yoke sharply right below the cap on all 4 sides which will move the caps against the retainers. The yoke is not supported solidly on a surface but held in the air with one hand and smacked with the other.
A few notes about the caps on u-joints. They are hardened since they are bearing surfaces for the needle bearings. You won't damage them smacking them with a shop hammer or ball peen. If they were soft enough to be damaged with a hammer, the needle bearings would eat right through them in short order.
The opposite side needs to be supported flat and level on the socket or piece of tube with the right size hole in it for the cap to move into. Support it out of square and you'll spend a lot of time beating for little results.
Support and smack the first cap inward and that will generally give you enough slack to get the retainer out. Flip it over and do the other side, and that should get that retainer loosened enough to remove then continue with driving out the opposite side.
When we drive in the first cap for a new one, we over drive it a bit so that when you lift the body up to start the second cap, the first side isn't fully removed from holding the needle bearings in place and the other side is up far enough that the pin will engage the needle bearings in the second cap. We haven't displaced a needle bearing doing it that way in the last couple hundred caps or so.
I'd also like to see the vise that will push in the caps on alloy axles, has to be pretty hefty with some decent length on the handle for leverage.
The other reason to avoid pressing is the cap has to be driven slightly past the correct spot where it is going to live to get the snap or retaining ring cleanly in the groove. Then you flip it over and use the other side to push it back to seat the first ring flush and give you just enough room to get the second retainer in place.
Once that is done and you have all 4 caps installed and all 4 retainers installed, you need to set the caps against the retainers with inertia. That is done by smacking the yoke sharply right below the cap on all 4 sides which will move the caps against the retainers. The yoke is not supported solidly on a surface but held in the air with one hand and smacked with the other.
A few notes about the caps on u-joints. They are hardened since they are bearing surfaces for the needle bearings. You won't damage them smacking them with a shop hammer or ball peen. If they were soft enough to be damaged with a hammer, the needle bearings would eat right through them in short order.
The opposite side needs to be supported flat and level on the socket or piece of tube with the right size hole in it for the cap to move into. Support it out of square and you'll spend a lot of time beating for little results.
Support and smack the first cap inward and that will generally give you enough slack to get the retainer out. Flip it over and do the other side, and that should get that retainer loosened enough to remove then continue with driving out the opposite side.
When we drive in the first cap for a new one, we over drive it a bit so that when you lift the body up to start the second cap, the first side isn't fully removed from holding the needle bearings in place and the other side is up far enough that the pin will engage the needle bearings in the second cap. We haven't displaced a needle bearing doing it that way in the last couple hundred caps or so.
Having a vice to act as a second set of hands seems necessary and convenient, I've only ever used a press for ujoints in the past but I want to try the hammer method this time. I'm making a trip to home Depot for a new vice and ball pien
OP
The vice has acted more as an anvil or cradle for me. I've also used the steel edge of a loading dock.
Something I was reminded of on this last rebuild was how fast the hammer method can be compared to fussing around with a press.
That's what I was getting at, a cradle. I've been wanting one for my workbench anyway so this seems like a good reason to do so.
OP
I can see that style of press eliminating the risk of bending a yoke. A hammer and sockets is still easier and faster.