Axle u-joint or hub clunking

[fourmustangs]

Got back from wheeling last weekend.
While in 4Lo (wasn't in Hi very much)... Seemed to be Front driver side giving the really hard metal clunk (snap) sounds cant remember if mostly going uphill. I never turned on lockers. it did it quite a few times just not all the time. It does not have to be turning to do it. It does give some sound going over hard bumps in 2wd as well just not has hard of a metal clunk and some movement braking (could be 2 different things). but just for straight up driving and turning it does not really do it.

Since it doesn't do it alot I would think that it would be axle u-joint.

I need to power wash all the mud off so I can start diagnosing better. the wheel has zero play when lifted off the ground up/down or side/side.

if you replace axle u joint does the whole shaft come out to do it?

LJ Rubi has 136K miles and prob has mostly original stuff. from the looks of it when I bought it, last weekend was prob the first real offroad its seen..lol

I already have ujoints bought (bought for any possibly breakdown. Should I just replace the hubs as well while i'm there?
I also have the 4 piece ball joint set, but I know those are not bad yet. All steering is new as well.

 

[Thunderhead]

U joints usually sound like angry sparrows. The axel u joints are easy, the whole axel comes out. Just be careful putting it back in not to damage the seal inside the hub.
Others will chime in also but I would start with your suspect side axel u joint to see what kind of condition the joint is in.
There are a few other parts you need if your going to do the drive line u joints on your DC front.

 

[jazngab]

Axles would need to be pulled to do u joints. Axle hub replacement it shouldn’t but it may be stuck/rusted to the knuckle. If you decide to do your u joints I would look at replacing ball joints too while you’re there and if you already have the ball joint u joint tool set.

 

[fourmustangs]

Axles would need to be pulled to do u joints. Axle hub replacement it shouldn’t but it may be stuck/rusted to the knuckle. If you decide to do your u joints I would look at replacing ball joints too while you’re there and if you already have the ball joint u joint tool set.

dont have tool yet, so will have to get the setup for it.

 

[jazngab]

dont have tool yet, so will have to get the setup for it.

Rent the set for free from autozone. The set they gave me was “Powerbuilt” and it had all the pieces needed to do both joints, even the angled attachment to press the ball joints in straight.

 

[tworley]

If it it was me, and while you have everything apart, I would do ball joints too as well as new unit bearings. Ball joints would be easy as you are already doing more than half the work, they are $100 total if you shop around. New unit bearings are $120 (Timken) from Rock Auto, as they are going to be very near the end of their life.

 

[tworley]

Spicer 706944x ball joints (looks like they've gone up in price. My last set was $53/per)

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=162608692713

TIMKEN HA597449 {#5016458, 5016458AA, 53007449AC} for unit bearings $61

Spicer 5-760X ujoint.

Go ahead and do both sides for everything.

 

[fourmustangs]

Rent the set for free from autozone. The set they gave me was “Powerbuilt” and it had all the pieces needed to do both joints, even the angled attachment to press the ball joints in straight.

I might try that and see if my local has everything...people like to steal things from those sets.

 

[fourmustangs]

TIMKEN HA597449 {#5016458, 5016458AA, 53007449AC} for unit bearings $61

Spicer 5-760X ujoint.

Go ahead and do both sides for everything.[/QUOTE]


only thing I havent bought yet is the hubs

 

[fourmustangs]

ordered hubs rockauto

 

[jazngab]

I wish I could have kept my original hubs. I bought new ones to replace the old ones (nothing wrong w them) while I replaced ball and u joints and I was gonna return them and save $150 (reviews on the new timkens were 50/50 on amazon) but I mashed the threads in one of the bolt holes trying to separate it from the knuckle (before I learned the mrblaine trick) so long story short, I couldn’t reinstall the old ones because I couldn’t thread the bolts so I kept and installed the new ones anyways. Live and learn.

 

[fourmustangs]

I'll keep mine for backup

 

[Thunderhead]

I’d say tackle one thing at a time. My hubs are great through 120k. Don’t need to do your ball joints if they don’t need to be done. I’m on 32’s. They are sound as a fiddle

 

[tworley]

Ball joints may not need to be replaced right moment but why not if everything is unbolted and out of the way? Takes a couple hours or less to install new ones. Give them a few hundred miles, maybe a thousand, then they're worn out and you have to go thru this whole process again for a second time.

 

[jazngab]

Ball joints may not need to be replaced right moment but why not if everything is unbolted and out of the way? Takes a couple hours or less to install new ones. Give them a few hundred miles, maybe a thousand, then they're worn out and you have to go thru this whole process again for a second time.

I agree. And you have a baseline as when they were both replaced and hopefully never have to replace them again.

 

[fourmustangs]

I havent taken apart yet...since my clinking is random and mostly will in 4wd could it be spider gears?

Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.