Stop-leak for leaky radiator?

[Cornbread]

About a year ago I figured out my Jeep has been leaking coolant. Ended up the cap was a low pressure 12 psi cap and it was shot (not screwing down tight). So, I replaced this cap with an 18 psi cap. This stopped the main issue of the cap randomly vibrating loose and leaking but now I have figured out the radiator is slightly seeping along the top seem. I pressure tested the radiator up to about 20 psi and I can't see where exactly it leaks along the top seem and it doesn't leak enough to even drip to the ground. But it is always wet along the top seem. The coolant looks pretty disgusting and brown, I figured I might as well flush the system and refill with new. I was thinking about adding some Bars Stop Leak. Has anyone had good luck with stop leak. Not wanting to buy a whole new radiator for such a small leak. And I only put about 2000 mi/yr on the jeep, not my dd.

 

[ErikOffroad]

Do it right the first time. Don’t bandage your issue. Rockauto has radiators for 70-100 bucks and it will take 2 hours of your life.

 

[Cornbread]

Do it right the first time. Don’t bandage your issue. Rockauto has radiators for 70-100 bucks and it will take 2 hours of your life.

Thanks for the input, I have heard a lot of negative comments about any non-mopar cheaper radiator. The cheapest Mopar radiator I can find is $290. This leak is so minor I can't justify the expense currently. Eventually I plan to do new thermostat, water pump, and radiator, but money is tight for me, kind of just needing a bandage for a year or two.

 

[ErikOffroad]

It may be urban legend but I have heard from some people that stop leak can plug up a heater core. Then again just simple corrosion from lack of maintenance can do that as well .

 

[Cornbread]

It may be urban legend but I have heard from some people that stop leak can plug up a heater core. Then again just simple corrosion from lack of maintenance can do that as well .

I know a few mechanics who said it's a myth. Just wanted some real world experience from someone who's used it in their wrangler. As stated earlier I was hoping to hold off on buying the new radiator.

 

[PJOJeep]

I used Bars Leak for a couple years, replaced the radiator with an aftermarket unit no problem. However, a year later my heater core was plugging up. I was able to get it backflushed enough to get me some heat, but I just recommend fixing it right the first time! My original radiator failed along that top seam too.

 

[Cornbread]

I used Bars Leak for a couple years, replaced the radiator with an aftermarket unit no problem. However, a year later my heater core was plugging up. I was able to get it backflushed enough to get me some heat, but I just recommend fixing it right the first time! My original radiator failed along that top seam too.

Okay that makes me a little scared about using the stop leak. Maybe I should hold off and just buy a radiator.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It may be urban legend but I have heard from some people that stop leak can plug up a heater core. Then again just simple corrosion from lack of maintenance can do that as well .

It's not urban legend. The only time I'd use it is if I was 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert at 100 degrees and I'd die if I couldn't get the Jeep moving. Better to bite the bullet and replace the radiator. Store brands and online brands are bad choices, they don't cool nearly as well as the Mopar does. You live in Texas where it gets hot enough to where the choice of radiator makes a difference.

That lower pressure 12 psi cap was likely installed as a band-aid fix due to that leak. Replacing it with the proper pressure 18 lb. cap was good but it got that leak going again. WIth low funds it'd be tough to have to pay the extra $$$ for the Mopar but I'd sure try to find a way. Lots of overheating problems with many aftermarket radiators, buying the right one first can save having needed to buy two. Cheap, then the Mopar. And don't let someone tell you buying a cheap 3-4 row radiator will do the job. More rows doesn't mean better cooling in hot conditions, that's an old wive's tale. The TJ's Mopar radiator in fact changed from a 2 row to a 1 row design in 2000 or 2001 which result in better cooling characteristics.

 

[Cornbread]

It's not urban legend. The only time I'd use it is if I was 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert at 100 degrees and I'd die if I couldn't get the Jeep moving. Better to bite the bullet and replace the radiator. Store brands and online brands are bad choices, they don't cool nearly as well as the Mopar does. You live in Texas where it gets hot enough where it makes a difference too.

That lower pressure 12 psi cap was likely installed as a band-aid fix due to that leak. Replacing it with the proper pressure 18 lb. cap was good but it got that leak going again. WIth low funds it'd be tough to have to pay the extra $$$ for the Mopar but I'd sure try to find a way. Lots of overheating problems with many aftermarket radiators, buying the right one first can save having needed to buy two. Cheap, then the Mopar. And don't let someone tell you buying a cheap 3-4 row radiator will do the job. More rows doesn't mean better cooling in hot conditions, that's an old wive's tale. The TJ's Mopar radiator in fact changed from a 2 row to a 1 row design in 2000 or 2001 which result in better cooling characteristics.

Looks like I need to bite the bullet and just put a new one in. At 120k miles I feel I need to go ahead and replace water pump and thermostat while the radiator is out. ( Already replaced upper and lower hoses). @Jerry Bransford do you recommend OEM water pump also? They are freaking PRICEY compared to a generic. I read in a thread where @Chris recommends the Stant thermostat. This Jeep has been killing me with little problems that "need" fixed, but are not stopping me from getting from A to B.... yet I still love it. Guess it's a love-hate relationship haha.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Yeah I know it's more $$$ but the Mopar water pump is worth it. I made the mistake of buying a store brand water pump maybe 16-17 years ago and, fortunately, @mrblaine scolded me and made me take it back before I installed it and get the Mopar. Once I compared the two there was an obvious difference in quality. You can't beat Stant's SuperStat 195 degree thermostat, you can get them on Amazon.com Make sure the gasket seating surfaces for the water pump and gasket are absolutely 100% totally and completely pristine and free of any of the old gasket material. Scrape them and then use a small wire brush to finish the job. Even a small barely perceptible piece of the old gasket left behind can cause a big leak. Ask me how I know that haha. No RTV anywhere in the cooling system, use gaskets.

 

[Hotchef181818]

Radiator for $230, hopefully that helps. Your profile didn’t say if you’re running an auto or manual but amazon has pretty good pricing. Just get the right one.

Mopar 5503 7652AA, Radiator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EH4AC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Cornbread]

Radiator for $230, hopefully that helps. Your profile didn’t say if you’re running an auto or manual but amazon has pretty good pricing. Just get the right one.

Mopar 5503 7652AA, Radiator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EH4AC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Thanks! that one is for a manual, I have an auto so doubt I get by that cheap.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The p/n you want for your automatic is 52080184AC, I looked on Amazon but it's not there. I'd google it, hopefully you can find one. They're getting scarce so good luck. If you can't find the Mopar, at least avoid the cheap store brands, Spectra, etc.

 

[twistedlv]

Anyone have success with a radiator shop repairing the original?

 

[S.McArthur]

I found an OEM junkyard radiator for $50, no issues....yet.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Anyone have success with a radiator shop repairing the original?

Repairing plastic tank radiators is seldom successful. I would say never successful but such absolute statements always draw out examples of exceptions to the rule.

As for "stop leak"products, my opinion based on personal observations over the years is that it is a band-aid best limited to getting a vehicle to a repair shop rather than as a stopgap measure over weeks or months. I would also avoid any product that looks like rodent turds - you will be flushing out bits of those forever (or it will at least seem like forever).

Mopar radiators are generally considered the best, but a quality aftermarket unit can give good service if budget is a greater concern and a higher priority than maximum cooling capacity. In other words, if one simply cannot afford a Mopar radiator and needs one's jeep for a daily driver, then it would probably be better to use an aftermarket radiator and get the jeep on the road than to use stop leak and hope for the best while one saves money for Mopar branded parts.


YMMV

 

[Cornbread]

I found an OEM junkyard radiator for $50, no issues....yet.

Good idea! Didn't even think of calling junkyard's.

 

[Edward Turner]

I used a stop leak product in my S-10 and it completely stopped...the heater. It was harsh to discover that at 14°. Just sayin...

 

[S.McArthur]

Good idea! Didn't even think of calling junkyard's.

Make sure you check it out before you leave. I had to make a return trip to get a replacement. They tried to pass off a non-Mopar one with a broken transmission line mount. Bring a gallon of water with you.

 

[Gollywomper]

And flush your cooling system. Dark, dirty brown coolant is bad. Rust and other debris are not good for the radiator or heater core. Run a premixed coolant. Try to stay away from tap water, too many minerals.